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Not sure where you comment about just driving around small foils and no wave power is coming from or how they relate to this conversation? Are you trying to say you only like to foil in strong wind? Even then, I prefer the use of a smaller foil and wing over a smaller board.

You need the larger board to start the smaller foil in light wind, it's your prefered way to foil, enjoy. Tried the 85L range, doesn't work for me, doesn't suit my style. I'll save my 710 for (very) windy days. It is not my preference to use it in lighter winds regardless of the fact I can start it with my larger board. It's just not as much fun. A single board won't work for me but nice to hear you've found one that works for you.

For the moment, the 85l will be my one board quiver for winging...

You mentioned a 2 knot penalty? Are you saying you only need 2 more knots to water start with a 60l board? My experience has been quite different on that front. I tried the Omen 60l and yes, it was plenty comfy submerged under water, but it lost a huge amount of the low end that I desire...

Now, I will clarify that I am probably a rarity in that I absolutely crave the smallest wing and foil and am very typically out there on smaller gear than anyone else

Regardless, as a single board solution, the 85L carver looks great. The larger / longer board absolutely allows you to start the smaller foil with less effort.

I have a different way of looking at winging than most.

It's not a sailing sport for me. It's a foiling sport so just driving a small foil with wing power gets kinda boring after 20 minutes. Without wave power to drive that foil, may as well go on a bike ride. I think the 2 knot difference is pretty close. Without a wind meter on my wing though...  there's really no way to quantify. Wind is very rarely steady. I'm pretty much always using the same size or smaller wing than the 65-75Kg guys with my 60L. Just enough wing to start is all that's necessary, apparent wind, pumping and wave energy do the rest and keep it more interesting.

One 64Kg buddy uses a 38L board which still floats him better than me on my 60L. Kinda hard to wrap my brain around that

As another 90Kg winger, mainly in the Gorge, I'm wondering...

Are you choosing an 85L board as a single board solution for all conditions? Have you experimented with higher aspect shapes more in the 60L volume size? It's a two board solution but I'm finding a 60L is much more stable starting than a board of equal volume to weight and the 2 knot wind penalty on the start is a non issue (again... in the Gorge). I have a 115L if I get really desperate but it never gets used. Even though the 60L is only 1# lighter than the 115L switching back to back the difference in swing weight is night and day (as it would be for an 85L vs. 60).

I'm also finding my 710cm2 very high AR foil too much work in less than 25 knots, Who wants to pump that hard... There's just not enough energy in the water to make it fun in lighter winds. It's great in 2 meter plus waves but I'd rather use the 970 cm2 which has little penalty in 25+ just changing the tail.

On the other hand, there's a guy I sail with that has one board, foil, and wing (4.2). He never has to make a decision what to bring and he gets by. I'm often a bit jealous

he's so good. That crazy tack 360 in like a 6 foot circle is wild.

Wow.  That is a beautiful move.  It takes a second to realize that his riding is that inspiring without airtime. 

Also between he and Kane they may have the widest and narrowest stances .

Great filming, Robert!

That ultra wide stance must be a leftover from his kite racing days, seems to work for him. I find my feet getting closer together every year though. Interesting that Kane's KT board looks to have a nearly identical bottom shape to the Omen flux he helped design

Quick update;
I've now used the Colby 4/3 Hooded - Liquid Sealed - GBS + Thermal Lining maybe 5x winging and absolutely love it. No flushing whatsoever, the large fits me perfectly at 6'3 185#, thought I'd be better off with an LT but they're sold out and it's turned out to be a non-issue.

I was thinking of ordering a spare but Just went ahead and ordered a 3/2 and the 1.5mm long sleeve top for summer.

Thanks for the tip Hdip! Cost me 400 bucks but for three wetsuits it'll be a huge savings in the long run

99% sure it's legit, very nice customer service rep called me back. They look like decent quality suits and I need one so ordered a hooded 4/3, will report back.

The issue had something to do with Paypal and/or Capital One. Both can be a little overzealous trying to cover their arses.

Thanks for the link!

Needessentials us distributor is in a lawsuit with them and started a new company. Colby + they're having a clearance sale.

https://colbyplus.com/collections/clearance?mc_cid=f81396a72d&mc_eid=cf6dae8c1b

@Hdip, is this a legitimate business to your knowledge? They look great but my CC company is declining based on elevated fraud and chargeback levels. Anyone purchased from them?

  To be honest, there is not much more board out in front of me than there is on my 5' 2" wing board.

Yet another issue with V1 Gong, the boxes are a little too far back. I've always been super happy with their products, don't currently own any but I might consider a V2 Cruzader if they make some improvements. Everyone is going to have different requirements, mainly volume but lightweight is a basic need. The Kalama 115L custom I bought used has been through one season and is anything but waterlogged at it's original 12# (5.2Kg). The production versions are about a pound heavier and likely more ding resistant. Regularly available on the used market for 12-1500.

Yup, those are some pretty impressive turns for a 112cm span wing regardless of the board

...Malo can probably paddle on a  beachball and make it look stable

Agree Malo is super talented but I can really see the lag in his turns compared to his usual style on smaller boards, 7Kg for 112L is REALLY heavy... a lot of swing weight. They've gone overboard on the dimensions in their V1 effort, too narrow, too thick and way too heavy (the biggest surprise). Not cheap either at 1200 Euro

OK, but now you've created a 1mm gap between mast and fuse junction just forward of the shim (won't mention the hydrodynamic drag). Those carefully constructed parts designed to fit together like a glove now... don't. There might be a little flex there, you measured it but a gap is inevitable introducing all kinds of flex into that joint and eventually breaking the bolts. Just overall a bad design and the cheapest way to solve the problem. All this for $3.5K

We're all interested in becoming as good at this sport as JH and KA who interestingly enough both use ML foils. Thing is, either of these guys could jump on my setup and make it look exactly the same as their ML. The foil is capable, I am not. Throwing double the money at this will not solve my issues. Did I mention the thing will already be obsolete when it arrives a year after you order it?

Folks are welcome to put their money(and sand their foils) anywhere(way) they like, thanks for making it even more clear that this system is not for me. Enjoy whatever it is you ride

So do those foils come with the tin foil hat or do I have to build my own? Who has time for this nonsense?

From those shimming instructions

"Ventilation
Ventilation on the strut can happen for a variety of reasons. Most often ventilation occurs due to impurities that can build up on the leading edge, or scratches that can result from hitting things in the water. Water temperature and sea state also play an important role in the separation of laminar flow on the strut.

It is very important to keep the strut very clean, especially the leading edge. Do not touch it with dirty or greasy hands. You can clean the mast periodically with alcohol or household glass cleaner.

If you have persistent ventilation problems, or some surface defects and leading edge scratches as a result of hitting something in the water, please use the following procedure to bring back the leading edge to original performance:

You should do this only if you feel absolutely confident, otherwise you may risk changing the profile of the leading edge. If in doubt please contact us

1. Examine and fill any scratches or impact pits created from hitting something in the water using two part epoxy. Make sure to use only a tiny amount, just enough to fill, leaving very little to sand afterwards. Sand down the cured epoxy just in the repaired area with 600 grit until it is even. Only do a few strokes locally with 600 grit, as you can easily ruin the symmetry of the leading edge.

2. Start by wet sanding the leading edge with 1000 grit sand paper. Make sure your strokes are 45º alternating to the direction of the water flow.

3. Steadily work your way up to 1500, then 2000 grit. Be sure to change your water often so as not to contaminate the subsequent grit.

4. Rinse and dry off the strut. When dry use a 3M Trizact pad 3000 grit to buff the strut to a satin sheen.

5. Wipe down with alcohol or glass cleaner and you are ready to go."

Certainly their best effort to date, incredible footage. What a life this Mathieu Fouliard has though I felt a bit sorry for his wife

Oy, that beginning looks like the streets of Portland. Put some windsurfing gear outside the tents and it suddenly becomes a lot less depressing

I think one of those gals was Lorraine Carlstrom?

Right on.

Lag time in pumping or wave riding?

That was his first time riding a new foil.  He moved his foot strap next session and is ripping.  He's been working on those layback tight carves and even made a new narrower board for tighter turns.

I'm really nitpicking there Clay   I see it in the roll from turn to turn here and there. Pumping looks great.

With tip breaches no longer having much of a penalty there's less reason to be so far from the foil. With my 93cm mast I felt the need to use front straps to overcome the lag while with the 83 not at all. Boards around 24" wide shouldn't cause much issue in steep banks at shorter mast lengths.

Lots of nice SUP, surf and wingfoil footage in these 42 minutes.