When its Big Don’t Look Back

[Beasho]

I have a good rapport with a small group of prone surfers that will go out in bigger conditions.  I had snapped my leash a month ago backing out of what was pushing 18 ft.  My friend Matt gave me grief watching the whole thing saying 'you should have gone.'  Easy for him to say but the odds on that wave were 50/50 and I like to play it safe.

Fast forward a couple week ago and the conditions were big and building, 10 feet @ 17 seconds.  I was out with the crew.  A set breaks the horizon, I paddle hard and get a good take off on what was a big and rising wave.  Because the prone guys sit inside of me they get obliterated and I make a nice, semi-hair raising drop.

I rode the wave a couple hundred yards and kicked out.  I proceed to get pounded by several waves and look to see Dan in the whitewater with his hands clasped looking at me doing a bow (?)  When I get to shore Matt walks up and shakes my hand and says "That was the best takeoff I have ever seen you make.  You redeemed yourself."  I said 'Wow it felt good but nothing over the top.'  He responded "Well you couldn't see what was behind you?"  I forgot my Trace that day and have no further evidence of that wave.

Then there was this wave.  I took a road trip and was able to find the photographer on the cliff.  I didn't look back.

[Beasho]

And a few more

[PonoBill]

It's kind of rule number one. the difference between the waves you make the ones that pound you is what's in your head. If your reptile brain is gibbering "you're going to fall and get clobbered" you're going to fall and get clobbered. Especially true for me for downwinding Malikos. My neck lets my head turn about 45 degrees, which is a big help sometimes.

[surfercook]

SOLID waves! Nice surfing! Looks alot bigger than what I caught in Encinitas during my trip this winter!

[surfinJ]

So true.  Though it would be nice to see, it doesn't do you any good at that moment. It's funny how our vision towards our forward hoped for path misses so much of the action.

Great photos Beasho, how lucky is that. You could track the photog down, and he had taken the money shot. And what a wild and woolly one it was!

[supthecreek]

Great pictures Beasho!
Awesome to see a Zoner in the big stuff..... thanks!

[SlatchJim]

Those are the type of waves I see myself on (in my head).  The reality is about 1/5 as big.  That's a monster!

[wrybread]

Sweeeeet wave! Looks like it's going to hold up too.

And while I agree about the commitment point, obviously wave selection is important too, especially at this spot where the channel closes out even at half this size. My main spot is the same way, especially this year with the sandbars a little off. If you don't choose well you get pounded and boards and/or leashes snap. Just to make the voices in our heads even more chattery.

Fuck I miss surfing. We've had such a long run of wind it's driving me nuts.

[wrybread]

Looking at it again on my puter as opposed to my phone and seeing that filename I don't think that's the place I thought it was. Nice effin wave, and congrats on getting a picture of it, what a score.

The current swell (last few days) sure has sucked. Its all my fault, I bought two new boards at once, which offended the surf gods and they sent 2 weeks of crappy weather and waves. I apologize for the suffering I've caused everyone in Northern California.

[SCruzSUPr]

It's kind of rule number one. the difference between the waves you make the ones that pound you is what's in your head. If your reptile brain is gibbering "you're going to fall and get clobbered" you're going to fall and get clobbered. Especially true for me for downwinding Malikos. My neck lets my head turn about 45 degrees, which is a big help sometimes.

+1 PB: It's all in our head...

Great pics Beasho!  I'm not far away, here in Aptos, but I don't have much appetite for that size.  Rock on and thank you for sharing the stoke!

[SUPcheat]

There does seem to be a difference between a very high, steep, lipping waves and those ones that have huge mass but big, open, energetic faces that aren't so steep. I think I might even be able to catch some of the non-steep ones.

I still am not used to the sensation of being lifted high and having to slide down, it is scary. I thought by this time I would be used to it and enjoy the thrill rather than just being chicken shitted.  Maybe by next year.  My fear reflex is too hyperactive.

Looks great, Beasho!  SUPs are regular customers at Steamer Lane these days.

The only one I know for sure I did that was overhead was because I looked over my shoulder and saw it was over my head and yeah, scared the crap out of me, but I managed to catch it, anyway.  I may have done a couple of others that were overhead.  They felt like it, but I never looked to see them to say for sure they were overhead before I caught them.

[JBinGulfShores]

Awesome! Great pics too!

[mrbig]

Great waves and pics! BEEG WANS BRAH!!!