Question about S.I.C. boards...trimming for California conditions..please advise

Started by Shawn Michael, December 15, 2009, 10:39:17 PM

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Shawn Michael

It seems quite important to find the "sweet spot" on each board for the conditions you paddle in.  For a long time I stood too far back on my Bark 18ft and when I moved up 12 inches close to the balance point of the board, I picked up almost 10% improvement in speed

When I got my F-18 the rudder was set up so that my toes were 7 foot, 5 inches from the tail...but the board is 18'7!!! So I have more than 11 feet of board in front of me....I moved the steering as far forward as it would got but that only gave me a couple inches.  It seems like the trim of the board is way off for the flat choppy conditions....like I need to move a foot forward.

So it looks like I need to:  a)  Find someone who can do some surgery on the board and move the steering forward 12 inches  b) take the steering off and have this one as a fixed a fin and order another board made to my specifications.  c)  I am wrong and this board is unlike other boards in that you can move upwind and in the flat chop just fine standing way in the rear of the board.

Mark said the steering is like that because you will bury the nose if you stand any farther forward....if the nose is digging I am jumping back and the steering is the last thing I am thinking about and where I am there is not much in the way of waves so no worry.

At the 2009 Battle of the Paddle in typical california conditions, Mark Rappahorst won the open distance race on his f-18 (now Bills f-18) and Bill won his division as well...what is the deal????

Please advise!!

1tuberider

Hi Shawn

I would suggest either removing the steering system or leaving it as is and only use it when you are dealing with crosswinds. 

The clip of DK doing the down winder shows that he is turning his board to avoid the bow burying by rail pressure not steering system.  He also gets longer glides by staying in the steep part of the wave and does so by surfing turns and incredibly powerful short stokes on the paddle.  Can you index your fin on the turning system so that you know it is dead ahead?

When in the cross wind, step back and make your adjustment for steering.  One thing about cross winds is that they are everywhere you paddle.  Once adjusted you won't need to use it until you change direction. Then step back and adjust your fin again for the new direction. 

Moving the system forward without deck interference will be costly and fwiw I doubt that it will allow you to paddle any faster, but I know the need for speed has us looking for the holy grail. 

Are you turning the board with the rudder or using foot pressure on the rail?  Foot pressure is a natural feeling once mastered,  as is finding the sweet spot for turning the beast.  This turn works after you have caught a swell.  For lower speeds, sub planning you could use your rudder system or just use your paddle skills to bring it about.  I would just use my paddle for the course change because using the rudder would throw me off balance. 

The turns are usually at the end of a run.  It might cause a loss of speed for the turn as you step back to use your rudder but once complete get back into the position for your paddle speed.  But I really think the main benefit of your adjustable steering is for cross winds. This allows you to maintain balance from side to side so you are not overdoing it on one side correcting for wind. 

Toys are expensive and then we add toys to our toys.  Keeping it simple seems like a good option.  I doubt if you would gain enough from a forward mounted steering system over what you already have.

The best option is to keep improving the motor.  I thank you for all the tips on diet.


jb

Good points 1tuberider. The other day I was in a lot of wind, downwind the rudder system (for a F-16) was in a perfect place.  Back up wind to get home, I put my feet forward on the outside of the rudder and it worked pretty well. Not the most room but worked with booties. Only problem was my fin was just off center and was pulling a bit. I compensated with the rudder, I must have bumped it off center in carrying it. Shawn, how did you ensure fin was dead ahead on install? I'm thinking about a little strip of plumbers tape in wheel so cables would be less likely to slip. Any advice?

JC50

Yah, having no experience on a SIC I'm pretty ignorant to a fix, but would think that rudders are great for the big stuff but more limited when it's flat (perhaps even being somewhat of a drag when used on the flat relative to coarse corrections with paddle during the stroke). So if the rudder will stay centered on it's own, then just standing forward more and treat the board as rudderless in the flats might be a better fix than cracking open that sweet board? In a crosswind, can you set the rudder a few degrees off-center and will it stay? Again, I don't have experience with SIC's steering system.

PonoBill

I paddle forward of the steering system probably 80 percent of the time. When I get into a swell I step back and get to the rudder, because that's the best way to keep the board in the swell and steer to the next swell. I spend a little time every time I go out adjusting my rudder so it's dead straight, then most of the flat water stuff is just paddle steering. F18's don't rail steer.

The other time the rudder is invaluable is rounding a bouy. You can take ten seconds off a buoy turn and pass lots of folks. Aim straight for the side of the buoy, run up along side it to your feet and crank hard rudder while you paddle hard sweeps and the board spins on it's axis.

I just got back from Lowes with a bunch of aluminum bars to try a different steering system on the Penetrator. If it works it will let you steer from anywhere. The other thing I'm looking at is a Radio controlled rudder. I'll keep you posted.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

greatdane

Hey guys,
Am not familiar with the SIC rudder design other than seeing pictures... does the rudder not self-center when you let go of the steering mechanism?  Or does it stay wherever you last set it?  Just curious...
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Tom

QuoteThe other thing I'm looking at is a Radio controlled rudder. I'll keep you posted.

Bill, use your Iphone with wifi. If some kid can drive a formula one race car, you should be able to steer a board.

PonoBill

Good plan (though that would be bluetooth), but I'm thinking more of buttons on the paddle handle.  It's a geeky notion, but I think it could be very good.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

stoneaxe

Yeah but it's geeky notion from a guy that built radio control robot submarines 40+ years ago.... ;). But then again...that sub sank if I remember correctly... ::). Should be interesting.
Bob

8-4 Vec, 9-0 SouthCounty, 9-8 Starboard, 10-4 Foote Triton, 10-6 C4, 12-6 Starboard, 14-0 Vec (babysitting the 18-0 Speedboard) Ke Nalu Molokai, Ke Nalu Maliko, Ke Nalu Wiki Ke Nalu Konihi

JC50

Quote from: PonoBill on December 16, 2009, 12:42:25 PMThe other thing I'm looking at is a Radio controlled rudder. I'll keep you posted.

;D  Don't stop there, man; go for a voice-activated system.  ;D

Shawn Michael

"I paddle forward of the steering system probably 80 percent of the time." 

Good to know.  The run I do from Naples island to the Queen Mary has a continual trade wind blowing...so basically for one hour I am paddling right and bumping the rudder every few minutes to keep my course straight...if I paddle left for a few strokes without the full rudder I spin right around so I am on the rudder the whole time going out...coming back it is paddle left for an hour with a few rudder bumps.  I REALLY need to be on the rudder with the cross wind, that is just the way it is...and I am not getting into any big waves of course just rides on some wind swells.

The footing along side the steering is not too good for me.  See picture of the SIC rudders.

It cant be that hard to move but I would rather have someone with some experience do it.  I think the long upwind sections would be so much better if I was standing forward.

Always learn something and appreciate the advice

Shawn Michael

As you can see the rudder is not that easy to step over....somehow my rudder seems father back....ugh

LaPerouseBay

First off, yes greatdane, the S.I.C. rudder is self centering. 

Shawn, it sounds like you really want to move your pedal forward.  I've moved them forward and back.  Never an entire foot, but a few inches.  It's really not that difficlult.

If I were in your shoes,  the first thing I'd do is find the ideal spot you would like to have the pedal.  One way to zero in on it would be to remove it entirely.  With the pedal off, you can walk around freely.  The cables probably need to stay on, due to the adjustment turnbuckles.   Pull the excess cable back to the rear and secure it.  I'd use clear packing tape right on the fin and the bottom of your board to hold it straight for your experiment.

Now go and paddle with a friend and walk around on the board.  Have them watch you and comment on the attitude of the board.  Find the sweet spot for your conditions. 

Re-installing the pedal is not that difficult.  The toughest part is winding the cable around the wheel and adjusting the tension.  It requires a bit of finesse, but once you get it, you will be an expert. 

Support your local shaper

PonoBill

Quote from: JC50 on December 16, 2009, 07:30:23 PM
Quote from: PonoBill on December 16, 2009, 12:42:25 PMThe other thing I'm looking at is a Radio controlled rudder. I'll keep you posted.

;D  Don't stop there, man; go for a voice-activated system.  ;D

Naah, I sing and whistle when I paddle--it would be too confusing.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

Shawn Michael

Moving the pedal within the "track" that is below the pad is easy but beyond that it seems there would need to be something built under the deck to really anchor that big screw into....then there is the matter of the cables...could be replaced with spectra cord?? 

I could have a new board made and use this one as a fixed fin but that seems like a waste and it took almost a year to get this one. 

Anyone in Southern Cali do this kind of work?