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Late to the discussion... if it were me given what gear you have, I'd recognize that the Helium 1500 is a really good windwing foil and that the Kalama is too big.  So I'd first get a nice 80-90 liter or possibly 70 liter wing board at around 5'2".  Then I'd get a 1095 for suping (on the Kalama) and winging (on the new wingboard) at higher speed and/or waves with more push where the 1500 doesn't feel as good.  Onofoil makes a really good tail for winging and the KD 13.5 is unreal in waves.  Sometimes a new tail is all you need.  Finally, I'd get a Nolimitz carbon 85 mast.  I always detune the trailing edges of wings.  The 1095 has a nice round wing turn up like the helium is supposed to, so it's safer than some wings without a turn up.  I've found when I land on my foil, it's often the tail that is doing the damage, so don't leave it sharp either. 

-That said, you don't know what you're missing until you try something different!

Just to add to the versatility aspect of the 1440, at 195lbs I've been using it for marginal winds windwinging and it works pretty good.  What's nice to me is that it seems to work best more forward in the box and with a bit of back foot pressure, so it doesn't over-foil quickly like some other downwind designs do.  I'd take the 1210 or 1095 any day over it for winging in stronger winds and close spaced wind swell as both are faster and turn better, but when I do jump on it, it feels like a big 1095 and behaves well! 

I was a wave windsurfer before I really got into surfing.  My friends have reminded me over the years that I proclaimed "I love surfing, you only need one board!"  My wife asks how is it that my surf boards seem to multiply every year...

I bought a Kalama E3 5'10" for sup foiling and hoped it would work winging too.  At 86kg plus wetsuit, so lets say 200 lbs wet, it works great for sup foiling.  Not easy, though for Nor Cal conditions.  For winging it works just fine.  But I just bought a smaller wing board so I could enjoy winging again, like I did last year on a dedicated wing board that was too small for sup foiling.

Whoops!  Yeah, 2mm, not cm.  Trying to be Euro-chic.  How bout 3/32... I didn't get a shim for my mast... Did it ship with one?

The 1095 is more stable at pop up, and I'm riding it 1/4" further forward than the 980.  I have a really flat rockered board, and use the carbon mast, so I shim the front of the mast plate about 2cm which helps keep the foil in the wave during pop ups.  On a rockered board where the mast track is not flat to the deck, I would shim the rear, but not to level.  Try a KD 13.5 tail shimmed with a washer on the rear screw of the stab for better stability than the 178 tail.  Your board is pretty long, I wouldn't be too concerned about getting the mast further back.  Work on sliding your weight forward as you pop up and keep your back foot farther forward, moving it back only to make sharper/slashier turns.  Getting thrown means your weight is too far back, could be from your hips if you linger in Upward Dog, from a foil angled nose up (not an issue with Armstrong as I can see) an old LOL foil, or simply too much push from the wave (Ocean Beach, SF!)

I'm loving the KeNalu Mana 82 with x-tuff shaft.  A bit of diy to set it up, but worth every penny.  I'm 190lbs and wouldn't want any bigger...

Good times, indeed.  Nice cheese roll at the end!

20 plus years of kiting, maybe 2 pinholes: used the kit that came with for repair.  One valve stem came off, used contact cement that came with the kite.... 3 months of winging and 2 blown leading edges in 2 days!  One from the leash tearing open the leading edge on a brand new wing and the other from a twisted bladder.  Sent to Airtime as the mfr. has no spares.  I think the storing of a wet wing has the bladder fold onto itself and fuse just enough to cause inflation problems when it dries out. I don't think that would cause pinholes though.  Without anything obvious, pinhole is probably from rolling up on top of thorns.  Go barefoot when packing up!

Try Airtime in FL or Hood River for repairs and spares.

Beasho, good catch on the running shoes! 

Probably because he's had one too many climb-outs on those Gorge rocks.  I remember my first visit there with the help of a book I think called "The Gorge Guide."  Most of the launches listed involved climbing up and down slippery rocks.  It also said to look out for "dead heads." At the time, I thought it meant to lock your car so some Granola-Hippy didn't grab your wallet!

I'm suffering from the occasional planter fasciitis or tear of something; maybe wearing orthotics and shoes would be a good idea.  I'll let people know that I learned it from a fellow Mavs charger!

Also a great way to keep from getting pressure dings so you can sell your gear as "used a few times!"

So, this coming winter I'll be wing foiling, and I'm wondering, what foils are better in high winds? Bigger, slower foils is what I would expect? 50knots is not uncommon here in the gorge and I really wonder how doable/fun it is, or if it's just so windy that it becomes relatively miserable and dangerous?
Any thoughts from both experienced knowledgable foilers and/or people who have actually been out in those conditions?

HaHa! Thought you were a kiter who wanted to sup foil the Oregon coast... somebody's got Wing foil fever!
Doubtful you'll find many 'knowledgable' people who've been out in 50 knots on a foil.  I tried windsurfing Rooster rock once in those contitions.  Not fun. Fall and Winter are the best times to go find a protected cove and SUP the coast?!  In the Summer, at Arlington on a downwinder, maybe tops of 40mph would be really fun. But if you fall, waterstarting with waves breaking on your head is not easy. The problem with high winds and foiling is it's just not fun unless the wind is to your back... and you're really good and fit. 
In terms of gear, need a wing that does not pull when sheeted out over head like an Airush Freewing or similar.  Foil wise, I would think something more high aspect and thin as my experience with thicker, long cord foils is that they generate a lot of initial lift and will blow out of the water easily if you can't keep weight over them.  That said, I look forward to your reports as you explore uncharted territory!

No worries. Hope it helps. I'm no Slingshot expert, but I think the fuses are all the same and your 84 wing should have a removeable cover if you wanted to try the A position... 

https://support.slingshotsports.com/hc/en-us/articles/360057617412-Slingshot-Hover-Glide-Switch-Fuse-for-Hydrofoiling-

Hwy1north: Thanks for the infinity 84 specific information. Really helpful. I'm riding the 84 and I've been working on pumping to get on foil. Seems like I can rise up on the foil briefly, but it won't stay up. I'm thinking about going back to my 99cm.
2 questions for you:
1) I have this setup:https://slingshotsports.com/collections/complete-foils-wing-surf/products/hover-glide-fsup-v3 . There is no way to move the mast forward/backward along the fuse. Should I buy a longer fuse?
2) Based on your experience, do you think there is a better foil for the beginner+ phase? The Infinity is HEAVY and other foils seem so light. I know everyone has their favorite foil, but the Infinity always gets moderate approval. Is it worth moving to a different foil?
Thanks!

The fuse is "switch" able.  Flip it around and the mast moves towards the wing or away.  Towards the front wing means run further forward in mast track, and you will get a more pitch sensitive foil, away from front wing, and more stable foil (theoretically...)  most beginners just need to make sure they have a fair bit of pull in the hand wing (so not under powered) then bear off and give a few pumps high to low and not side to side so that your feet get light as you pull on the hand wing.  The board will rise, stiffen your arms, and head up wind.... and don't stop weighting and unweighting your feet by pumping your legs until you are going fast.

Some foils are very athletic meaning you have to give them lots of input to get the most out of them.  The 84 is very smooth and suprisingly fast for how low aspect it is.  It just isn't very athletic.  You gotta row through the gears a bit before it takes off and make sure you are pointed in the right direction.  You probably have it in the mast to rear spot, so try switching the fuse to see if that livens it up.

Clay, I normally don't say anything negative on forums as there are often two sides to a story, but I got ripped off, plain and simple; a wetsuit should be snug, and not too long in the arms such that there are bunches and bunches of suit...

Eric's the one who took the measurments via a 45 min video fitting.  I showed him how my normal size L O'neil, Matuse, Xcel, Patagonia, Ferel all fit ok, and that I tried on a Japanese suit made under the "Moonsuits" label and was impressed by the materials, but not the fit. He explained AXXE custom suits would fit my broad shoulders better and last longer because they fit correctly, not "stressed"... the suit showed up and was way too big.  Layed on top of an Oneil L, its 2" wider on either side, so 4" larger chest and so on.  It is exactly the same as an xxl and I'm 185lbs, 5'10.  With no offer to alter or return, I was instructed that that is just the way AXXE fits it's suits, specifically, they are not "stressed."  What a joke.  A $900 dollar joke on me because they only take checks or venmo.  I tried it a few times per instructions from Eric, way way too big, but again he just stated it was as designed.  Around the 4th use for kitesurfing since surfing wasn't functional, the seams started opening at the shoulders and other panels.  Lesson learned, try before you buy, and with a credit card, because there are some truly unscrupulous people out there. 

All I have worn for a decade give or take a few years.
Axxe, patagonia, isirus and matuse.



Axxe suits are ridiculously warm, norcal winters at OB were the reason for paying that big price tag.

I have a couple of Matuse suits that are in terms of water retention and weight way lighter and warmer than an equivalent O'Neil.  The Scipio 3mm is truly as warm as most 4/3's, but much lighter and faster drying.  It's crazy expensive though, and somewhat fragile.  Unfortunately, covid has ruined all chances of getting one on sale, so it may be hard to justify the cash... speaking of cash, I bought an AXXE thanks to some possitive forum reviews and the lack of an off the shelf suit in the Covid crissis-no supply months ago.  The AXXE was beyond a dissapointment.  Horrible fit, fell apart at the seams quickly, heavy when wet, no warranty.  Avoid.

The new 6'0" Kalama is going to come in at 131l and the 6'6" at 141l which sounds like a lot of volume to me. Why do they pack so much volume into the boards?

The more volume you pack into it, the shorter everyone can ride.

So, with the foil attached more volume = more stability? My experience on a regular sup made length and width seem more important.

Well, sort of, yes, and no...  I mentioned the Kalama boards because the wide nose and square rails offer stability.  Also, he (did?) put an FCS fin forward of the mast to help keep the board straight paddling.  For foiling, volume is your friend up to a certain point as the farther from your mast you go, it can start to feel a bit unconnected.  Length is your enemy once on foil, but necessary to learn how to paddle onto foil....  also, rows and rows of white water and currnt are a bitch on a slow moving short water line board.  Once you are good enough to stay on foil after you "kick out" and pump back out for 3-in-ones etc. you can handle that short board.  If you can stay on the ol Takuma until you are up and flying and trying to pump back out, I'd then consider a volume of about 120-130 for your weight and age and where you are (Oregon) as an intermediate foiler.  You can also gain stability with a board like the wide tailed Quattro Drifter Pro, etc. which packs a lot of volume in a short board, but I wouldn't want to learn on it imo.