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Dropping In while paddling BACK OUT?

Started by exetersup, January 13, 2010, 11:48:07 AM

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exetersup

Has anyone successfully pulled off a drop while paddling back out through a set? I'm talking about pointing out to sea as the sets approach, and then whipping a 180 pivot no paddle into a wave? I think about it all the time, but have not hit it yet.
Literally going from paddling speed out to sea to an instant drop in with the flick of a stroke, pivot...Like a reentry almost.
Jeesh, I need some waves up here in NH. It's flat like a bathtub, freezing like the arctic, and all I can think about is getting on my board.....

diesel

You know what, that is a damn good idea.  I am totally going to try that as my skills progress.  I saw Slater do it at Pipe on a small day.

exetersup


diesel

Nah, Slater was on his shortboard but that is not easy to do at pipe on any board.  He was paddling back out  and just went over sideways with the lip and was riding the wave.  That was like 15 years ago.

surfpainter

That was and still is my favorite move (on my sailboard).Foote told me that's how he spotted Jeremy Riggs, doing exactly that on his Paddle board. I pulled one off by mistake once, have yet to do it again.

PonoBill

You betcha, I did one yesterday on a very steep face at the Cove. 3/4 accident, 1/4 intentional. The accidental part was the initiation--started when the board was teetering on the crumbly wave and getting pushed back. I tend to keep my paddle behind me when pushing through bigger waves because I tend to fall backwards once I clear the wave. All that happened is that the nose came around, I stayed leaning back against the paddle, and the board pivoted. Once it was going mostly the right way I gave a stroke and was in the wave. 

It was pretty much automatic. I think I could do it again if the conditions were just right but I wasn't able to reproduce it.

Waves at the cove get steep faces when the swell is big, but don't seem to have any power even though they pitch out and tube sometimes. No idea what's going on there, but you can feel it in the whitewater--no steam. It's probably a really good place to try that move, but I've never seen it big like it was yesterday.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

Admin

Quote from: exetersup on January 13, 2010, 11:48:07 AM
Has anyone successfully pulled off a drop while paddling back out through a set?

I watched Kimo working on this last year and he was getting very close on a bunch.  He was paddling out at an angle and getting redirected by the edge of the crumbling peak right where it started shouldering.  Sort of an outbound off the lip.  This was chest high soft south shore waves, but still very cool to watch.

Caribsurf

There was a photo in Stand Up Journal a few issues ago  Chuck Patterson was on a sizable wave and trail of his wake looked like he did exactly what you are describing
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stoneaxe

#8
What admin said about Kimo.

I did it once (mostly by accident) when i was forced to go with the flow instead of punching through. Not an intentional move...the waves was in the process of closing and I was caught at a slight angle...nose of the board got forced up and around and I just paddled with it instead of fighting it. Felt very cool and if anyone was watching i'm sure it looked impressive.....I'd get trashed if I tried to do it on purpose.... ;D

Tree has mentioned doing this in big offshore winds when the waves are steep and the wind is helping on the paddle out.
Bob

8-4 Vec, 9-0 SouthCounty, 9-8 Starboard, 10-4 Foote Triton, 10-6 C4, 12-6 Starboard, 14-0 Vec (babysitting the 18-0 Speedboard) Ke Nalu Molokai, Ke Nalu Maliko, Ke Nalu Wiki Ke Nalu Konihi

PonoBill

Kimo is pretty amazing. He was spinning the penetrator around on it's tail. 19 feet of board and he was pivot turning it. I also saw him out at Puamana one time in conditions that looked like the inside of a washing machine. Casually taking waves that I couldn't even see.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

surfpainter

Quote from: stoneaxe on January 13, 2010, 07:09:56 PM
What admin said about Kimo.

I did it once (mostly by accident) when i was forced to go with the flow instead of punching through. Not an intentional move...the waves was in the process of closing and I was caught at a slight angle...nose of the board got forced up and around and I just paddled with it instead of fighting it. Felt very cool and if anyone was watching i'm sure it looked impressive.....I'd get trashed if I tried to do it on purpose.... ;D

Tree has mentioned doing this in big offshore winds when the waves are steep and the wind is helping on the paddle out.
This is what happened to me! I made it and laughed so loud at myself afterwards!

exetersup

Pono,
You got me thinking, what about a reverse drop in? When you're paddling back out, approaching a steep face that you'd normally make over, what about attempting to jump up toward the nose, get a stroke or 2 and go fin-first into the drop?
That would be sick, who's dunnit?

1tuberider

Old take off trick.  Done many years before short boards were around.  If only I could get one more or not miss any type of thinking.

The usual problem with it was the wave was done after you took it so late and you did not get the ride you were hoping to get. Usually a close out or soup ride is all you end up with.

Good rides starts with good wave selection and proper positioning.  If you got a good ride out of it then yes its a good move.

My beginner friend did this when he did not have enough power to punch thru and the wave took him all the way to the beach.  A great white water ride but not a great ride.

Paddle-Plappe

"Paddle ou take off" is a rare move, especially when it's well done. Kelly Slater did it under the foam once at "la Réunion " island (Saint-Leu). With a sup board, the thing is to get the benefit of the rebound while hiting the foam.