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Where are the sup surfing videos showing sup surfers paddling through waves?

Started by magentawave, May 02, 2014, 12:32:07 PM

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Mungo

Where I surf I see many novices attempting to paddle out on their knees. I did it myself not so long ago until I realised it was counter-productive and it seems that it's the technique that everyone teaches (I don't understand why).   

The reasons I don't use it are:
a) you can't use you legs to absorb the impact of the wave
b) you can't use your hips to balance effectively
c) paddling in a straight line is harder because you can't stack your hands as easily
d) if you fall off, your board is almost always behind you and often drags you back in.

My first few months of suping in waves were spent paddling out on my knees, getting knocked off and dragged backwards by small but steep waves, reeling my board back in, taking another wave or two on the head and then starting all over again. I always thought that taking the oncoming waves in surf stance was an advanced technique for accomplished riders and didn't realise the benefits for novice riders until I actually started trying it. Now, unless I'm about to get swallowed under a large breaking lip I'll always jump into surf stance, get really low and plant my paddle deep into the wave using it to brace and to prevent myself from being pushed backward. When I first started, I'd take every wave in this manner, even if I could get over it in paddle stance, so I built up the muscle memory for when I really needed it.

The reasons I recommend it to novices now are:
a) you can use your legs to absorb the power of the wave so you don't get bucked off
b) the method can be used for every situation (breaking waves, unbroken waves, big waves, small waves)
c) if you fall, you kick the board out over the wave so you don't lose ground. You don't have to reel it it and turn it around, it'll be right in front of you pointing out to sea, just jump on.

Granted it takes a bit more effort to learn, but there isn't really any downside even if you do fall off. I've seen guys get washed all the way back in whilst still kneeling on top of their boards, I'd rather get wet than lose all that ground   :D

Biggreen

Very good, Mungo! When I started I just told myself that this was a skill set I was going to have to have, period. So from day one I've gone out standing up. And you're right, it's so much easier and much more powerful. I watch my buddies getting creamed regularly on their knees and am amazed, but I say nothing.

What works well for me. As I'm heading toward the oncoming pile I try and get some momentum. If I have good mo' I'll take a step back with my rear foot to lift the nose right as the foam pile reaches me while getting in a last power stroke right before impact. As I'm bounced up and over I'm following immediately with one or two or more quick cadence strokes. They're just as much a high brace as paddle strokes. That grab with your paddle provides a wider balance point. Stick in the water, always...remember?

If I've been through several waves in succession and lost my mo' as another one approaches, I'll still take that step back and get in that last power stroke, but often I'll bend my knees a little more and drop into a low brace, or low brace leading into a stroke as I'm going over the pile, until I'm past the wonkiness. Without mo' you're often pushed backward, so you're just trying to survive. And a low brace definitely spreads your footprint. But still, stick in the water...always.

The waves that break right through my knees or waist, or just off the nose of my board. 50/50 at best for me. They're just tough. But what I see mostly is people not using their paddle. I know, I know...but I'm gonna say it again. Stick in the water, always!

Mungo

Quote from: Biggreen on July 04, 2014, 09:40:47 PM

What works well for me. As I'm heading toward the oncoming pile I try and get some momentum. If I have good mo' I'll take a step back with my rear foot to lift the nose right as the foam pile reaches me while getting in a last power stroke right before impact. As I'm bounced up and over I'm following immediately with one or two or more quick cadence strokes. They're just as much a high brace as paddle strokes. That grab with your paddle provides a wider balance point. Stick in the water, always...remember?

I do much the same. The quick cadence strokes are a good tip to help regain momentum and stabilise yourself in the aerated water. The only thing I would say is that sometimes the steeper waves can throw you off if you try going over the top. On one occasion I actually bruised my shoulder when my knee hit it absorbing the impact of the wave, so now if it looks like I'm not going to get over it I'll try and go through it, like Kai Lenny at La Torche (or not  ;)).   
The other thing worth mentioning is that when I put the paddle in the wave I don't draw it, it's solely there to brace me (I think it's called an active paddle brace) and prevent me from going backwards. Obviously my forward momentum takes me past the blade, but I found that if I actively draw then the blade comes out of the water too early and I lose the stability of the brace. Sinking the blade deep into the undisturbed part of the wave also gives better traction and gets my centre of gravity low.

Quote from: Biggreen on July 04, 2014, 09:40:47 PM
If I've been through several waves in succession and lost my mo' as another one approaches, I'll still take that step back and get in that last power stroke, but often I'll bend my knees a little more and drop into a low brace, or low brace leading into a stroke as I'm going over the pile, until I'm past the wonkiness. Without mo' you're often pushed backward, so you're just trying to survive. And a low brace definitely spreads your footprint. But still, stick in the water...always.

How cool is it when you get out having made a few waves in a row? It's almost as fun going out as it is going in. I used to count how many waves I'd got over in succession, I think my best was about 14 (that was some paddle out).

Quote from: Biggreen on July 04, 2014, 09:40:47 PM
The waves that break right through my knees or waist, or just off the nose of my board. 50/50 at best for me. They're just tough. But what I see mostly is people not using their paddle. I know, I know...but I'm gonna say it again. Stick in the water, always!

Good call. Stick it in deep ;)


Biggreen

14! Jesus Mungo! So...do you have oxygen waiting after #15? I'd damn sure have to have! That's great! I've never counted, but it definitely does become a personal challenge. Just last Mon I surfed too far in and got pounded on the inside waiting it out. Got up and took off making it over many waves only to be chopped at the waist and hammered again. Was so pissed I fought my way back out just so I could ride one last wave back in to take a break. Great descriptions on your technique. Very helpful!