Getting Out of a wave

[Logan]

I was a little too late in Narragansett last week and broke one of my sidebiters and put a bend in my center fin in the craptastic shallow beach break there.  Costly.

I usually kick my board away to the side and back flop over the foam as it closes out, doing my best to spread out and think floaty thoughts. I have only rarely turned back in to the wave and hopped over... And stayed on.

I made the mistake this weekend of stepping off onto the sandbar while riding the foam. One ankle surgery was enough in my life, and I won't be doing that again.  I am finding the humility to accept that the safest dismount is also the most uncool looking- just part of the reason why I am fortunate to have the place to myself most of the time.

Logan

[surfcowboy]

I believe Linter has described "the Hawaiian pullout".

Note that I never do the frontside move in anything over waist high. Bigger, straighten out step on the tail like Bill and wait for the splashdown.

[Wetstuff]

Rick, Since there are so many things in life 'to remember' (and so few cells) ..I printed out your instructions. I have a baggie with stuff to scan just before I paddle out so I can try.

Thanks again.  You're the guy we all want to hang with  ..but this way, we don't have to feed you beers.

Jim

[SUP Leave]

Lots of good and interesting responses. Thanks everyone.

It looks like getting out of a closeout and back out quickly is going to take some practice. Lot's of stuff to try here, I will forget most of it by the time I am back on the ocean, but something might stick.

I agree having a big board and paddle makes the whole thing a lot different than with a surfboard. I know seeing that big board coming down on your head is a lot scarier than seeing an 8' fun-board going up.

[TallDude]

Use the paddle. I have surfed most my life, but when I started SUS'g I had to learn a few new things. When you cut out, bury the paddle and put your weight on it. I can almost drag myself and my board through the lip by anchoring my paddle. When you make that drop, you got to know it's going to be short lived on a shore break. Sometimes I can slip in a little cut back, but as soon as I see that final lip starting to peal, I tuck, anchor my paddle, and punch straight through the lip. I push off the paddle to get back to upright. Then pull the paddle and brace till you can catch a balanced stroke.

[SUP Leave]

So, a quick update. I am a few sessions since my last post on this subject. The first one was at a different spot, where I could almost always find a shoulder, but yesterday was at the same spot that got me to start this thread.

I have to say a lot of your tips must have stuck. First I was feeling a little hung-over so I spent more time waiting and watching waves before taking off. So, a little patience helped a lot. I caught a lot more zippers that spit me out over a nice soft shoulder, where I could get right back out to the peak. Then I also decided that I would watch the wave a lot closer after I caught it before I chose front or back side. That helped a lot as well.

The backside kick-out and flop was very safe if I made the drop on a closeout. I couldn't get out standing up, but at least I was able to get up and out quickly without having to drag the board back to my by the leash. On my frontside kick outs, I worked really hard on a paddle plant and just ripping the board through the lip. Adding the aggression to the move helped a lot, I basically got back out on all of them. I fell on about 75% of those maneuvers, usually after a couple of seconds out the back of the wave trying to deal with the deceleration.

Finally one thing that made the session different was thick fog. All morning I couldn't see more than 30 yards.  The waves would just appear, and I would have to make the go/no go decision after looking at the individual wave, not what was behind it. This was different because usually I am like "here comes a good one, but look at the one 2 back", in this case I could not and so I took a wave if it looked good for my particular location. I caught a lot of waves, and learned a lot about judging them.

[Newps]

I made the mistake this weekend of stepping off onto the sandbar while riding the foam. One ankle surgery was enough in my life, and I won't be doing that again.  I am finding the humility to accept that the safest dismount is also the most uncool looking- just part of the reason why I am fortunate to have the place to myself most of the time.
Logan

I can't stress this enough.  Do not step off your board and try to stand up in the shallows while it is moving. You are just asking for the severe ankle sprain.  I know because I did this when I was new to SUSing.  On a crappy small day (having a blast by the way ) I was just messing around in the shore break working on some of my techniques.  I stepped off going down the line.  I thought no big deal it's only a couple of inches deep.  Wrong! Super bad high ankle sprain.  One week on crunches and 12 months of recovery until it was back to normal.  Three months out of the water (no surfing, no SUSing, no nothing) and 6 months of limited mobility in my ankle.  

There is no other way around it you.  You just have to flop hard in the shallows either fount side or backside.  You may smack your behind or take a blow to the chest but it sure as hell beats the alterative.  And you get to look like a kook doing it to, so add a blow to your ego as well!

[stoneaxe]

This works too....I've done it up to chest high...too much water coming in beyond that.
http://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php?topic=22237.0

[Zooport]

I am a beginner SUP surfer, but I have surfed prone for 25 years.  I have found that purposely falling off the back of the board is safer in such a dicey situation.  That way, you land flat in the water and the board is a little bit away from you.

Of course, cutting out over to the back of the wave is preferable, but sometimes it just closes out too quick.  My two cents, maybe not so good for SUP, I don't know.

[adamrod]

if the waves were steep and barreling like you said, why not just tuck into the barrel? sure, you might not make it out, but if you're gonna fall anyway, might as well fall inside of the barrel.  the wipeout doesn't really even hurt as you can just fall into the wave and out the back.

The other day, it was super steep and closeout city. Stopped trying to do turns, and just focused on getting tubed. no hope of making it out, but man, it was fun!

[Surfershane]

@ SUP Leave,

It sounds like you are ready to push a few boundaries. For me, this is all about gaining confidence and becoming committed. When your pushing yourself, there is no embarrassment in a wipe-out.

As long as you.are not endangering anyone caught in front of you,.when you see those long fast sections, push forward for that extra bit of speed and give it a go. Sure, you might get worked, but you just have to accept that. Eventually, you are going to get there and it is going to feel awesome.

So get out there,.get confident and commit yourself to pushing yourself that little bit further!