Welcome to Hawaii

[corran]

It was no 16' today, but it was big and good. Honoli'i was Ok... not closing out but sucking pretty dry for the left and only just over head high... so we moved closer to town to another spot - I forget its name. 20 SUp and 20 surfers out, but it was overhead and was an amazing left. Very fun indeed. I'm hanging out with one of the Brazilian contenders, Alesandro (placed 9th in Brazil) and we had a blast. I had a ton of awesome rides and only one ear pack to beat down when I lost it on a back side floater and went over the falls face first, much to the delight of those paddling out. My little 8'3" was perfect for that spot - fast enough to make some very fast walled out sections but still able to slice and dice it enough to not miss my 6'11" too badly.

Corran

[Takeo]

Glad the surf came up and hope it gets bigger for the context.  There's a webcam that kinda gets some of the wave action out in Hilo Bay, here's the link  http://www.tsunami.org/hilobaycam.html

[sandeezy]

haha, great, there goes that camera  just kidding.  that one is slow as heck.

[surf monkey]

Corran

That would be Bay Front and yes it is a fun wave you lucky dog.

I called my brother in law to heckle him about the stand ups in his favorite surf spot.  He was funny, " said it was all good I'm 6'5 and 235lbs paddling a long board I catch the waves I want. sounds like it was my sister Sandy struggled with it a little.

Small world he was surfing Bay Front today and said a Brazilian guy was out so I'm guessing you were too.

[maui wave warrior]

Forerunners were showing up yesterday afternoon with Pier 1 on Maui at a pretty consistant double overhead. Today select spots on Maui were double OH++. Had a great session near my house in the big stuff until the other two guys out whom I did not know left me to solo it. Not a smart  idea to solo the outer reef when its big so had to find an alternative spot after two hours. Happy to have good surf without the wind for a change. Strong Konas to blow tommorrow so probably going to be iffy at best! Good luck for the competition! 

[PonoBill]

It's been pretty good. I burned myself out pretty comprehensively the first day the waves returned, but yesterday was fun too. I've been chiding myself over just going to Kanaha and hanging out at lowers in the crowd, but I know what you mean about surfing spots that are a little remote by yourself. I didn't have any close calls last year when I started doing that, but my imagination is pretty good and I've had to do enough long swims to know that they are always scary.

I'm not inclined to drag someone else along, that would kind of defeat the purpose. I think after a few more good swells I'll get back into exploring. I'm also going to find a swimming coach and get a touchup on my swimming--it's not like it used to be.

For right now I'm having a great time, crowds or not.

[surf monkey]

I should point after posting In laws (John's) comment about 6'5, 235 lbs and catching waves. That intimidation in our sport can be a big factor on catching waves, especially in a new spot surfer's vers Sups, size of the guy or the amount guys, size of wave or just lack of your own skill. I think it is a natural competitive thing when you see a good wave in your local spot and a guy you don't know to paddle them deep and test them.



what i wanted to add John like most people in Hawaii have a love for the surf, good surfers and a lot of aloha and he is a really nice guy there to enjoy life. I didn't want to put a negative spin on the (welcome to Hawaii thing ). Even nice nice guys will paddle you deep until you take the time to break the ice with a ( how is it ) or something. the good thing with that your going to know to paddle away if the guy is not cool or get to know a local in the spot that can open doors in catching some waves. I know this subject has been beaten to death.



So if your in Hilo surfing and a big guy named John is Surfing with his wife Sandy, paddling you deep, the tip with him he loves to talk story, so break the ice with a how is it. The other tip Don't Snake his wife and give her some waves.



I know guys like Corran know they this they have surfed all over the world.



Lucky dogs waves and warm water.

[surf monkey]

oh sorry for the grammar.

[PonoBill]

Grammar doesn't matter when you're saying smart things.

I see Randy out all the time now on his longboard. You'll never meet a less intimidating guy if only because he usually has a big grin on his face. As far as I can see he gets all the waves he wants. Part skill, part wave knowledge, part he doesn't want every wave.

I drop in on him all the time, but that's just me. The only thing I've gotten really good at is bailing out of waves when someone is on the inside. I have a dozen good techniques now and in a typical day at Kanaha I get to use them all.

Bottom line though is the guys that are good, have local understanding of the waves, and can go hard and deep will get lots of waves under any circumstance. That's why I think the guys who don't surf that well are so cranky about SUP. We're taking some of the leftovers that are the only thing they can get.

I do feel bad for the women surfers, who tend to be way too nice. I watched a really good lady longboarder pull out of three waves yesterday after she was snaked by three different guys. Shmucks. They knew exactly what they were doing. If she had been 6'5" and 225 they would NEVER have pulled in on her.

[corran]

Hey Surf Monkey

I'm looking forward to meeting john. Made some good friends today. One guy on a shortboard was heckling us yesterday on SUP... this morning he paddled over and asked if he could try my board. To my amazement he was able to stay on it and got a wave. paddled out and asked if he could have another.

Another surfer joins the ranks!!! He was stoked on it. lol

Corran

[808]

Another surfer joins the ranks!!! He was stoked on it. lol

Corran

Nice job one less guy to heckel someone else. Good Karma for you.  Good luck on your contest.  Chased some tow guys out of the spot this morning but waved them back told them it was cool to share waves( as they have to leave if a surfer comes out per the Law for those that dont know the tow surfing law)  We all had fun, some BOMBS solid 8 to 10 Hawaiian.

[corran]

you were out at Browns?

[808]

Oh no I am up in Oahu on the North Shore but dont want to give away my spot as it is super SUP friendly and great wave very uncrowded.

[corran]

Well the last few days have been awesome.... Hilo bay which doesn't always break had some great head high sets come through and gave up long rides both left and right. Fast sections, turny sections, floaters and lip smashes, driving cutbacks shortboard style and even some airs. No carnage to speak of... its been an amazing few days.

At the same time, Adam, my sales director was on the N Shore of Ohau with Robbie Naish at Kammy's and he did get pounded... snapped his 7'3" clean in two and got such a beat down that robbie padled over to see if he was still OK... pretty funny. He was delivering to the BG team their first SUP's that we make for them and went out afterwards on their 10'5" surfing board.

Registration was this morning for the world cup final here at Honoli'i and the trials are set for Sunday... hopefully the gods will give us some waves.

http://imaginesurf.wordpress.com/2010/12/11/day-4-in-hawaii/

Corran

[corran]

Today was pretty small, but we still had fun... great little wave Honoli'i, and I got to test the 1st proto of a new design which was fun...

http://imaginesurf.wordpress.com/2010/12/15/hawaii-day-6/