Author Topic: Buying new: what to look for in construction (traits, not brands)  (Read 1974 times)

gkrast

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First post in the SUPZ forums.  Glad to have found this place.

To you seasoned SUPers - I'm looking to buy new.  Something in the 10'6" area.  Something for small to moderate waves, some flatter offshore paddling (new to SUP).  I'm familiar with a lot of the brands out there, and realize that lots of people out there have there favorites for various reasons.  But I'm looking for objective information, i.e. construction types, reinforcement, core, etc.  Thanks in advance.

Respect,
Kevin

Big Z

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Re: Buying new: what to look for in construction (traits, not brands)
« Reply #1 on: October 28, 2010, 10:35:25 AM »
Welcome! Three brands I would look at: Coreban, Starboard, Laird P. Arrow. All build really well and will last along time. Check out surfingsports.com the new line off starboards will be out soon, thats what I'm looking at.( I do not work for this shop or companys) just think after 4 years at this they are the best. My next to boards will come from one of these. Hope this helps. Buy good stuff no regrets! I cheaped out and got a hand laid board and it cracks if you look at it wrong. Spend the money! Cheers! ;D

raycie

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Re: Buying new: what to look for in construction (traits, not brands)
« Reply #2 on: October 28, 2010, 10:48:49 AM »
Trait I didn't look for (being a beginner) that I now know means a bunch.

Displacement

Some manufacturers will note the volume displacement.  It is probably a lot more technical, but to me, the higher the number the more buoyant it will be.. 

PonoBill

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Re: Buying new: what to look for in construction (traits, not brands)
« Reply #3 on: October 28, 2010, 11:18:09 AM »
Not all that technical. Displacement is usually in liters, and a liter of water weighs roughly 2.2 pounds, which is the volume that will be displaced if the board is completely sunk. So if you weigh 200 pounds a 100 liter board will hold you up with 20 pounds of capacity to spare which equates to 10 percent of the boards volume still sitting above water. In other words it will be sitting pretty low in the water. How much margin you want depends on your skill level. You can divide your weight by 2.2 and then add the volume margin you think you'd like.

I've surfed boards that could hardly be seen (my wife calls them Jesus boards), but then I'm fat.

Volume is more commonly reported by companies that build sailboards as well, since the generally have a measuring tank or use design software that calculates volume (not an easy chore by hand, though you can get close with careful measurements and a grid approach that divides the board into progressions of ever smaller rectangles). Volume is a critical issue in windsurfing. If I stand on my 80 liter windsurfing board to uphaul you'll never know it since I'll be floating about waist deep. On the other hand if I'm sailing my 170 liter board in 40 kts of wind I'll be standing on the tail, bouncing like a rag doll and hanging on for dear life.

To answer your general question, I'd look at any of the sandwich construction, multi-layer construction approaches, like AST. They stand up well and are reasonably light. Hold off on the custom boards until you stop whacking the board with the paddle. That said, finding a great local shaper that can take all your unique needs and the local conditions into consideration can yield a board you love rather than just like.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

gkrast

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Re: Buying new: what to look for in construction (traits, not brands)
« Reply #4 on: October 28, 2010, 01:14:39 PM »
Thanks to all.  Raycie hit on something I've found myself pondering:  displacement.  I've seen the various displacements of different boards, but was having a tough time making that "mean" anything.  PonoBill - you really took that 'displacement' ball and ran with it!  Thanks.  Excellent stuff.  Loved the 'Jesus board' ref, too.  I'm going to try to "learn up" on

Since I posted shortly ago, I talked to a buddy of mine who recently got into SUP.  He's a lifelong surfer, and was about to pull the trigger on a particular brand/board.  He bailed at the last minute only b/c he got a sweet deal from a friend on a used Naish locally.  So, I figure, if this other board he almost bought met his standards (as a launching pad into SUP) it's good enough for me.  After visiting the site and checking out the boards, there are two feasible choices for me: (1) 11'0" w/ 185 liter volume, and (2) 12'0" w/ 220 liter volume.

If I'm 170, grew up surfing, will do a fair share of small wave (1'-2.5' faces) paddling plus a lot of flat offshore paddling, shouldn't the 185 liter vol be enough?  Man, 12' w/ 200 L seems like a houseboat from the desk chair here.  I guess when you're standing on it the vantage point changes things...

Bill - great tips on construction, too.  Exactly what I was looking for.  Got even more than I hoped to get out of my post.  Thanks again, all.

Respect,
Kevin

JimK

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Re: Buying new: what to look for in construction (traits, not brands)
« Reply #5 on: October 28, 2010, 01:50:37 PM »
I'm not sure this is perfectly relavant but after 5years of SUPing and selling this stuff I would say BUY A GOOD BOARD made by a MFG that has LOTS of years of experience in EPOXY Sandwich construction nad MOST IMPORTANTLY Stands behind it with a full ONE YEAR minimum warranty. Look VERY carefully at the windsurfing brands as thry've been making boards like this for a long time!

Shape wise at your weight 10'6 to 9'5" will be perfect. nose ridder type shapes are usually easier (and more versitile) to ride.

If I can leave you with one axiom I've learned  (Unless you are (plan to) ride Steep Fast (ie BIG) waves)

[b]"Boards that are less tghan 30" wide are more work than fun for most ridders starting out"[/b]

Hope this helps

JimK
www.extremewindsurfing.com

 


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