Got my F-18 yesterday....need advice about set up...SIC owners please advise!!

[Shawn Michael]

Finally!! I have been dreaming about this board for a long time...got up extra early before work for a ride.  it is 18'7x28...I had to measure 3 times because it looks the same size as my 18ft bark....so here are my questions, thanks in advance for some advice.

1)  Taking a few words from david K's interview I think it is very important to have the board trimmed properly.  The rudder seems really far back on the board!  7'6 from the tail is where my forward foot maxes out on an 18'7 board so I am swamping the tail.  The balance point of the board is at 8'10 from the tail which is a bit closer to where I might get the most speed out of the board in California conditions.  Per the SIC web site "It has a 5” adjustable insert placement for the foot paddle pivot point. (back and forward)"  I did not want to pull up the pad but is there a track of holes under the pad where the big screw that holds the footpedal can be moved to?  It seems like I need to move up to get the trim right.

2)  The plug at the tail fit poorly and pops out...since the tail is submerged a lot this is a concern...wondering if something better can be fitted, a screw in vent.

3)  Need to install a handle....had a rough time getting the board out of the waves crashing in...it was my bad communication that it was not done...precaution with this??

Thanks for advice!

[Admin]

Hi Shawn,

Could you post up some pics.  Your best resource will be calling Mark, but I am sure everyone here would like to see your new ride and to give our 2C.

[noworrieshawaii]

I had Mark retro fit another leashplug towards the front of the board... Now I can use the paddle to help carry my F16... Made a huge difference in being able to carry on my own. I had the recessed hand installed during construction but the paddle carry method works so much better for me... I'd check into having one installed. I can upload pics if ya want.

[LaPerouseBay]

hi shawn,

yes, the center screw in the pedal can be removed and moved forward.  as you mentioned, there is a 'track' with more holes under the pedal.

the tension on the cable should be released first - using the turnbuckle back by the rudder. 

the copper ferrules on the cable - up front - are one inch apart, as are the holes under the pedal.

the thumbscrew on the rudder shaft is used to center the rudder. 

if you can't reach anyone at the shop, pm me.  i'll give you my number and walk you through it. 

if you have a vent that looks like a rubber cork with a small plastic tube in it, just jam it in reallly well.  be sure it's not kinked.  i prefer these over the screw type myself.  i put clear packing tape on before a run, for added security.

[StandUpPaddleSurf.net]

Finally!! I have been dreaming about this board for a long time...got up extra early before work for a ride.  it is 18'7x28...I had to measure 3 times because it looks the same size as my 18ft bark....so here are my questions, thanks in advance for some advice.

1)  Taking a few words from david K's interview I think it is very important to have the board trimmed properly.  The rudder seems really far back on the board!  7'6 from the tail is where my forward foot maxes out on an 18'7 board so I am swamping the tail.  The balance point of the board is at 8'10 from the tail which is a bit closer to where I might get the most speed out of the board in California conditions.  Per the SIC web site "It has a 5” adjustable insert placement for the foot paddle pivot point. (back and forward)"  I did not want to pull up the pad but is there a track of holes under the pad where the big screw that holds the footpedal can be moved to?  It seems like I need to move up to get the trim right.

2)  The plug at the tail fit poorly and pops out...since the tail is submerged a lot this is a concern...wondering if something better can be fitted, a screw in vent.

3)  Need to install a handle....had a rough time getting the board out of the waves crashing in...it was my bad communication that it was not done...precaution with this??

Thanks for advice!

The pedal mount (female screw holes) normally have 3 positions available that will work w/ the preinstalled copper clamps on the wire.  I moved the pedal as far forward as it can go and that worked well in flat water type conditions or light winds.  It was too far forward for swell over knee high and winds over 12 or 13 mph.  It does take some time getting used to as it seems like I'm standing far back. 

If you're sinking the tail then you'll need to move forward. 

Sometimes we duck tape the tail plug to make sure it stays in place but I never do that bc it doesn't seem to take on much water. 

My F-18 came with 2 leash plugs down the middle that allows me to attach a string to use my paddle as a handle.  It would be helpful to have a handle built in though. 

Let us know how it rides compared to your Bark.  I've been riding mine for a month or so and have probably put in close to 30 hours on it.  I'm now getting it dialed in as it's a way different ride than the F-14.  I'm finding that in the right conditions my time is close to 8 minutes faster on the F-18 vs my F-14.

[Shawn Michael]

Many thanks for great help.  I am going to try to move the steering in the AM.  After I move the steering do I need to fill the hole of the original placement with silicone or something?

I am looking forward to timing the 2.5 mile flatwater look to see how it runs vs the bark.

I mentioned it is trimmed for surfing and when I look back the tail is basically sunk so I hope moving the steering forward will help get a little more balanced...

The board is more stable than I thought it would be, very light (33 vs 39 for the Bark)

Love the steering and the shape of the board!

It does have the two plugs with the loops for the paddle...cool feature...but my problem is pulling the board out of the water quick when I am trying not to get pounded and hit the rudder on the sand coming into the beach...so grab the handle and run for it before the waves hit you.

Maybe I will see Mark and the Battle of the Paddle...I work the night shift so I am going to stagger down there and check it out.

[Shawn Michael]

LaPerouseBay wrote:

"the copper ferrules on the cable - up front - are one inch apart, as are the holes under the pedal."

I didnt see the forward set of ferrules because they are encased in shrink wrap tubing but now it makes sense.

In order to locate the "track" under the pad should I just make one small cut directly in line with the pedal and spread the pad?

I suppose then I should relocate the small bracket that holds the "spring loaded fiberglass batten" so that it clamps it down at the end so the springback tension on the pedal is the same as what it was originally, filling the lower holes with silicon?

I think I got it, just dont want to mess anything up as I am not super technical with this stuff.

Greatly appreciated!

[LaPerouseBay]

if your pad covers the extra holes under the pedal, i'd recommend asking mark.

[Shawn Michael]

Thanks for the help.  I followed the directions above and it went well.  I feel a bit less like I am standing on the back of the board.  Obviously Mark and CO know what they are doing

Where I do my long distance runs, 50% of the time I am going into the wind (which sucks but makes you mentally and physically strong)

On the Bark, Greatdane clued me in that I was standing way too far back...moving forward, especially when going into the wind, improved the trim of the board and the speed....On the 18foot Bark boards (many of them around here) most guys stand with their toes right at 9ft from the tai. l On the 18'7 f-18 with the steering all the way forward I am standing with my toes at 7'10...as I said I trust the boss and he made it like that for a reason.

The only thing I know for sure it that it hopes on swells easier than the Bark...being 7lbs lighter probably helps that too.