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Author Topic: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger  (Read 3976 times)

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #15 on: December 20, 2020, 07:24:51 PM »
I've taken your advice to heart and kept every ounce of my weight on my front foot and the board on the water until I no longer was considering crapping my shorts.

The heavy front foot is KEY!  I was doing that today in 8 to 12 foot faces, enough that I felt like I was cheating.  As in 'I am not even foiling I am just riding a 7 foot SUP on a 10 foot wave.'  But then I would fly and go for 300 yards.  My longest was 600 yards.  One of the better foil waves I have ever caught.  Just groovy. 

In Hawaii I took off on a wave and was cutting backside (Goofy foot going right) and I could feel the rail of my board fully engaged with the wall of the wave.  I thought "Oh my god I am actually using the rail of this board and I have all this foil 2 feet below that about to go Berserk."  I stayed heavy front foot and the whole rig remained down.  Weight forward of the center of lift and the FOIL STAYS DOWN.

There was another wave in Hawaii that I was racing down the line and the nose was down and sticking.  It was going too slow.  I could sense the wave overtaking me and I was in a terrifying situation. 

1) Stay down and get run over AND Flipped with the foil or

2) Fly, Fly, Fly and race down the line line and try to survive.  But I didn't want to fly, things were already too dicey and fast, just not fast enough.   

I eventually flew and didn't breach or get crushed.  But - Plenty of soil in the shorts. 
« Last Edit: December 20, 2020, 07:47:41 PM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #16 on: December 20, 2020, 08:06:48 PM »
Some of today's action.  Ruby had been suggesting things over the past 2 weeks were too big and cold for her liking.

Today was a sunny, clean 8 to 12 feet.  There were a few 'easy peasy' takeoffs but most were challenging.  Here Ruby had to negotiate a mogul on the drop.  Sometimes when you pearl you can push through but you can end up with a bit of acid reflux in the back of your throat. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viuVXHmrWV0

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #17 on: December 21, 2020, 08:45:33 AM »
Today was a sunny, clean 8 to 12 feet.  There were a few 'easy peasy' takeoffs but most were challenging. . . . . Sometimes when you pearl you can push through but you can end up with a bit of acid reflux in the back of your throat. 

Here is an example of Pearling and Making it through.  This wave started out with a touch of mellow.  Then the nose rose up and I jammed it down.  In the 2nd shot you see the board pearling, water over the top.  But with a LONG NOSE the board (7' 4") stayed on the surface. 

The forward footstrap prevents pitching over the front of the board.  I rode this wave 230 yards.   

There is no way to pull this off with a shorter board (e.g. sub 6' 6") and without straps in waves that are well overhead.

There I said it  ;D  But feel free to prove me wrong.

Gear:  I was using the GoFoil NL190.  I decided NOT to go with the NL130 because the waves were not big enough and I wanted to glide a bit more.  Video to follow. 
« Last Edit: December 21, 2020, 08:51:24 AM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #18 on: December 30, 2020, 10:48:48 AM »
This day was #TooBigToFoil so I took out the 10'6" SUP to make sure I still had the chops.

Here was an example of a wave.  It was consistently 2X overhead, chop factor of 9/10 and the sets were 15 - 17 feet.  I could barely stand up and the conditions had me rattled.

Here I was getting hustled by a guy on a 9' SUP.  No way he could keep up with or paddle as fast as my 10' 6" Paddle Surf Hawaii.  As I said when it's #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger.  This applies to SUP's as well.  Tackling 15+ foot waves on a 9' SUP is like taking out a 6' prone board.  Not advised for anyone with sub-pipeline skill sets.

Buoys were 9ft @ 17 seconds with significant wind hangover from the night before. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrL4eITskqM
« Last Edit: December 30, 2020, 10:52:37 AM by Beasho »

bigmtn

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #19 on: December 30, 2020, 11:02:51 PM »
Should have used the foil. Crumbly take off, perfect for the foil. Just don't sit so far outside.

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #20 on: January 07, 2021, 11:24:14 AM »
Should have used the foil. Crumbly take off, perfect for the foil. Just don't sit so far outside.

I love the feedback.  I was actually scared on this day.  My heart was racing and I was having 'semi' panic attacks about how to get in. 

I like to think that I don't scare easily.  Not Mavericks level scary but at Mavericks you can just paddle to the side and get in with dry hair EVERY TIME.  This was just a constant pressure and threat.


Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #21 on: January 07, 2021, 11:27:12 AM »
Back to Foiling.  This was the prettiest, and among the biggest waves, I have ever caught on a Foil.

Is anybody out there?  Is anybody doing this in the world?

Nothing small breaks in this spot.  15-17 foot takeoff that turned into a screaming 12 footer over Blackhand Reef.  500 yard ride.     

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDBXWa3_nK8

bigmtn

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #22 on: January 08, 2021, 12:58:28 PM »

Califoilia

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #23 on: January 08, 2021, 01:36:27 PM »
Oh crap! That's one time I wouldn't object to a guy not wearing a leash. That guillotine above him looks nasty, and I can't imagine going through that upcoming spin cycle being attached to it.  :o

EDIT: Oops, dumb me, didn't realize it was an IG video I could click on. But still stand by the above, and just glad to see that it appears he came out no worse for the wear after a couple of those tumbles.

Side note: Just had a buddy of mine show me the still ugly remnants of the wound his NL tip put into his thigh from a couple weeks ago in a way less dramatic wave at SanO. No arguing they work well, but geez, these wings are dangerous enough w/o adding "can opener" tips to them. :'(
« Last Edit: January 08, 2021, 01:43:39 PM by Califoilia (formerly - SanoSlatchSup) »
Me: 6'1"/185...5'7" Kings Foil Board...Bob Pearson "Laird Noserider"...9'6" Costa Azul Wide Body...14' Lahui Kai "Manta"...8'0" WaveStorm for when proning urges still hit.

SUPJorge

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #24 on: January 08, 2021, 01:48:32 PM »
Back to Foiling.  This was the prettiest, and among the biggest waves, I have ever caught on a Foil.

Beasho, That was spectacular.
14' SIC Bullet V2 - 9'1" Naish Hokua X32 LE

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #25 on: January 09, 2021, 09:50:38 AM »
https://www.instagram.com/p/CJxXq6Ypm37/

I have a brother!!!!!!!   This is great.

You can see on takeoff he is flying as he makes the drop.  The benefit with a longer SUP is that you can fly nose down on the water.  Being on foil requires much more finesse.  With a short board at speed if the nose touches you will pearl 95% of the time. That's also why he was on a 40" mast. 

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #26 on: January 22, 2021, 06:41:39 AM »
The waves last week were the biggest on the planet.  Every big wave surfer from around the world came to Half Moon Bay and then a few more to either 1) take a try 2) watch or 3) Get blown up.

It was virtually impossible to paddle out. You needed to get a ride in a boat.  This week, between sets I paddled out and found myself 100% alone.  Again.  Sets looked promising just inside the bowl.  I caught a couple and then after waiting 45 minutes this happened. 

As Jeff Clark says "Mavericks will take care of itself."

I had a witness to the ride at the end and the blow up.  'Hide' (Hideshiro Minami) was on a jetski.  There was a little whimper in me that was hoping he would save me but it all worked out and nothing broke. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6C2IyOM6vJs   
« Last Edit: January 22, 2021, 06:44:43 AM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #27 on: January 22, 2021, 06:46:12 AM »
And when I say the biggest on the planet.  They looked like this exactly 7 days earlier.

 


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