Author Topic: Last Day of TS Danas  (Read 3835 times)

OkiWild

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Last Day of TS Danas
« on: July 20, 2019, 08:38:21 PM »
Yesterday was the last day of tropical storm Danas. Wind was brutal at 20-30kts, making most of the normal spots on the west side unsurfable. This spot faces just enough north to be side-off at mostly side. Very short video with not very good clips...but I do my best. I originally went out at a spot just down from here. A couple of other guys were out on SUP, but were struggling badly with the wind. They were paddling in as I was paddling out. It was solid double overhead, breaking fat with the lip landing about 1/3 down the face, and long crumbling right shoulder. I caught three bombs there, and then it went flat... So I paddled back in to put on a hat and pants (UV protection), changed the GoPro battery, and paddled out to a junky spot (this video), where it was at least shallow enough to break.

Then I noticed that the GoPro was sitting at 1 video... Something happened when I swapped batteries, and the card formatted or something. All previous footage was gone...sigh. Probably the best footage I've shot to date.

Anyway, the spot in the video peaks up on the outside where you can catch it on a SUP, mostly on the knees this day due to the wind. When the tide dropped, it then doubles on the inside reef. One of the clips shows this well, and there's an air drop into the head-high double up. The reef is short and goes deep again on the inside, dissipating energy quickly and making for a short ride. Not a good spot, but better than not surfing. Got a lot of waves, just not very long ones. Met new friends, Japanese paddle surfers down from mainland Japan

When the tide dropped, the original peak I was at started working (but much smaller), but 8 surfers had already taken up residence, so I called it a day. My jaw muscles hurt today from clinching the bite-mount so much...LOL

Anyway, enjoy the wind noise. Not long enough to add music. Thanks for watching



LBsup

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Re: Last Day of TS Danas
« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2019, 01:57:55 AM »
Very cool.  It appeared on a couple waves you paddle on you knees then jump your feet?  Also see you have those claw fins, I recently heard about them.  How are they?
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surfercook

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Re: Last Day of TS Danas
« Reply #2 on: July 21, 2019, 05:52:53 AM »
Nice effort. Too bad about the lost footage. Water color looks amazing over there in "Oki". :)
One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
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OkiWild

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Re: Last Day of TS Danas
« Reply #3 on: July 21, 2019, 07:43:25 PM »
Very cool.  It appeared on a couple waves you paddle on you knees then jump your feet?  Also see you have those claw fins, I recently heard about them.  How are they?

Yea, with the wind at 20kts in the face, it's much easier to get into a wave while on your knees. However, because of the paddle, popping up takes a little more time than it does on a regular surfboard, so if the wave is standing up quick, it's not always an option. The finlets are made by Mink Systems, but not yet on the market. The shaper who made them is a long-time friend in Hawaii, and he sent me a few sets to try out and provide feedback. When he first told me about it, I thought "gimmick" LOL. But I've known him for over 25 years, and that's not his thing. A lot of testing has gone into this, and it was kept under wraps until patent stuff got tied up.     

First impression is that I like them. A lot of what Kai says is true for me, especially the part about how the tail feels on a high speed turn on a choppy face. I noticed it because a SUP, with it's wide tail and fin set can act really nervous under those conditions. Would the average surfer like myself be able to really take advantage of it on a short board? Jury's still out. A  little more testing in some different conditions, and with different fin configurations, and I'll write up a review. https://www.theinertia.com/surf/kai-lenny-explains-exactly-what-mink-systems-those-little-things-on-the-tail-of-his-boards-are/

supthecreek

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Re: Last Day of TS Danas
« Reply #4 on: July 21, 2019, 09:56:33 PM »
Wow, that did look windy and windblown!
Pretty cool shots of the lip from the side... shows the power.

Water looks awesome.... bet it's beautiful on a calm day!

And, I hear you on the lost footage.... I have way too many good sessions that the cam won't follow or the lens get foggy or water drops on my Kook Hat Cam.

surfinJ

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Re: Last Day of TS Danas
« Reply #5 on: July 21, 2019, 11:25:56 PM »
Nice storm session. Nice way to beat the crowd. You must be at the top of your game it being the height of the typhoon season. I used to love those times searching mostly the southern part of the island for the deep in the bay spots on their rare wakeup.

GoPro fails are frustrating. One of my best attempts as far as conditions go, big clean and uncrowded. Camera turned on for an overview shot and in the water went dead.

OkiWild

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Re: Last Day of TS Danas
« Reply #6 on: July 21, 2019, 11:54:12 PM »
Nice storm session. Nice way to beat the crowd. You must be at the top of your game it being the height of the typhoon season. I used to love those times searching mostly the southern part of the island for the deep in the bay spots on their rare wakeup.

Yea, I've found so many deep water breaks on SUP where the prone surfers can't get to easily, so don't know about, and the wave is a not a hollow draining slab :-)       

 


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