How to take off in a breakingwave

[toolate]

I'm a late take off fan--I love the steep drops. The two critical bits are commitment and stance. If the wave is feathering above you it's not time to be wishy-washy. You have to charge, and you have to want the wave. If you stand too tall, or brace for the fall--you're doomed. It's got to be in your head--You're going to make it, and it's going to be fun.

The stance is tricky, you need speed, which means weight forward, but you also need to resist the shove from behind, which means you need to be low and ready for it. I move my front foot further forward than normal, and shift my hips and chest forward for the drop, then move my hips back over my back foot, staying low, head up, looking where I want to go. If the punch from behind is kicking you off, you aren't low and braced enough.

this is IT! Thanks