First post-cancer surf. Boy did that feel good.

[abmatt]

Back in September I noticed a lump on the left side of my neck. Yikes. All kinds of dark thoughts. Long story short, the next month, the week before my daughter's wedding, I got the diagnosis: Cancer of the neck and throat (lifelong non-smoker). The week after the wedding -- which was a really welcome distraction -- I had surgery, which found the origin point, near the base of my tongue. Got the prognosis, too: Very good, but only after a pretty grim radiation/chemo regimen.
 I've been out of the water since then because of a feeding tube they stuck in my stomach for when I wouldn't be able to eat. Finished the treatment the day after Christmas; docs and nurses said I was in the top 2-3 percent in handling the treatment -- to which I attribute surfing and all its attendant benefits. Then this Monday, they yanked the feeding tube out -- literally just yanked it ...
Just in time for a sweet little swell today. Cold water, glassy, waist-plus lefts and rights, absolutely nobody else but me, my buddies Tom and Russell, and Zoner TDE (Tim) and a cool wave-ski buddy. The famous JD Motes made it out a while later with his crew.
It was just what I needed. I have to tell you, the Zone was a daily stop for me during all this, and I had many vicarious moments watching videos, hearing of sessions, trying to figure out, along with all of you, what the next board or trip would be. It helped keep me going, along with thoughts of sessions just like today's. We got 2 1/2 hours in and caught tons of waves, after which I slept in the truck and then crashed for an epic nap to recover from all that fun. I'm 30 pounds lighter than I used to be, but also have a way to go to all my strength back!
It was a great day.
P.S. Always get strange lumps checked out ...

[SpaceCoastPaul]

abmatt,

Dude, hope all is faring well with your treatments. Had a BM transplant three years ago and the treatment held until November. I'm back on chemo, but not letting it hold me back. Still working, but check the surf report twice a day. If if's good, I go, meetings can wait. Unfortunately, the Atlantic has been a lake for the last couple of weeks, but there's always tomorrow.

Paul

[Zooport]

Best wishes for a speedy and complete recovery, abmatt.  Thoughts and prayers go with you.  So glad to hear you are surfing again.  KEEP AT IT. 

[SUPcheat]

You guys are inspiring, and I am glad that you share your journey here, thank you.

[The Kernel]

abmatt:

Kudos to you for handling that so well and keeping your perspective.  That's an inspirational story and we're glad you're back in the water. 

I feel honored to have made a tiny contribution and been a part of something (the Zone) that helped lift your spirits while you were going through that.   

[TallDude]

 Next time I think about complaining about a little beat down, I'll bare in mind the kind of waves you guys have been facing. Keep getting back on that board!

[RATbeachrider]

Right on Abmatt!  My daily SUP buddy was given 3 months and he's still around 5 years later cancer-free.  His motto - smile and in the water catching waves every day no matter the conditions!

[mdsurf]

ABMatt glad to hear you're better and back surfing.  Sorry the big C got another but rise above and keep surfing.  Sounds like you are doing better.  SUS takes a lot of energy so take it slow but smiles and waves make everyday better.  Wish I went to the north jetty today.   Take care brother.

[abmatt]

Thanks guys. I fully expect to get the all-clear in about six weeks, so I'll be around to SUP for a long, long time. Now if only my taste for beer would come back!
Coosawpaul, I wish you all the best. Glad you're still able to do surf, once the Atlantic wakes up (later this week, looks like?).

[supthecreek]

Right on abmatt...way to go!!! Sounds like you kept a great attitude and focus during the downtime, must have been the best apres' surf nap of you life.

Glad the Zone was there for you out of the water and by your side in the water

The stoke is strong in you, thanks for sharing with us.

[LaPerouseBay]

Congrats on doing so well with the treatment and hope the continued recovery goes well. 

Thanks for posting and keep us updated.

[stoneaxe]

Congrats, nice to have you back.

Kick the shit out of it Paul. Live hard.

[PonoBill]

That had the surprising effect of convincing me to go have a Guiness. Good to have you back. I'll echo what my brother says--play hard, live well.

[SpaceCoastPaul]

Abmatt,

Just reread the thread and realized that I hijacked your post. That was a bit rude of me. Sorry about that.

Paul

[eastbound]

Worry not, Paul.

Both of you guys inspire, as do others with med challenges who come on here.

Glad to see the fight in all of you, and the zen with which you deal.

I am convinced mental and physical health/power can be absorbed/earned from nature--whether it's a dawn paddle out, or a climb to an amazing ski line, or whatever your venue, there is redemption there to tap into.

Tap in and go, guys!