Little Kanaha day

[PonoBill]

I stayed home yesterday when Kanaha was good pretty much all day--Diane wasn't feeling good, and it's Christmas--I couldn't work up enough solipsism to ditch her and go surf, even though she told me to. So I got on the road at six and headed for Kanaha even though the surf report said 3-5 and high tide, which spells "Sucko" at Kanaha. Too much water on the reef for a reliable break at that height. And sure enough, it was a paddle fest, trying to catch waves that never broke all the way across the reef. I got a few, and got a lot of exercise, and then the tide went out as the swell faded--a race between depth and swell size.  Depth won and we started getting a few decent faces. The funny part was that they actually had a lot of punch in them. If you screwed up and got worked, they really mauled you, even though it was only head high at best.

I got a few really good waves. Dave Kalama showed up with his son Austin, who is going to be a major league heartbreaker--seriously handsome kid. Brett Lickle showed up with he daughter, who is both a spectacular surfer and way, way too beautiful. Big trouble there for Mr. Lickle. Buy a shotgun, Brett. Teddy showed up, Laurie from Silicon Valley, a little slip of a geeky lady who is always fun to see. Her surfing has gone from awkward to damned good in a shockingly short time. And all the usual suspects. Boyum stayed home--Shirley is sick with the same thing Diane had so it's his turn to pretend to be solicitous while he really wants to get in the water. points to be had there.

Surprisingly fun day for crappy surf. I surfed from 6:30 to 10:30 and felt like a wimp for leaving.