Author Topic: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell  (Read 22021 times)

PonoBill

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 24831
    • View Profile
Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #15 on: February 06, 2014, 09:10:38 PM »
Instant Karma--tonight I tried to kick my board over a feathering monster when I got caught inside at Tavares. Didn't work. My board came by me like a lawn dart--missed me by sheer chance. Then I got dragged over the reef. My left foot looks like I ran it over with a weed whacker.

Be careful out there. Nothing works every time.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

covesurfer

  • Teahupoo Status
  • ******
  • Posts: 1932
    • View Profile
Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #16 on: February 06, 2014, 09:50:25 PM »
Holy crap Bill.

My 'be cautious and live to ride another day, hopefully tomorrow' approach is starting to sound almost sensible. Hope your foot is ok dood.

southwesterly

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2679
    • View Profile
Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #17 on: February 06, 2014, 10:04:35 PM »
Not to belittle anybody getting caught inside... but THIS is getting caught inside.
I'd die for sure.

pguidry

  • Rincon Status
  • ***
  • Posts: 245
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #18 on: February 07, 2014, 03:07:46 AM »
Question on Sam Pae's tail handles, would it work on the nose? 

It would keep the fins away from you and you'd have the board facing the right way for a quicker recovery after the wave passes.

Dwight (DW)

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 4434
    • View Profile
    • supSURFmachines
Re: Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #19 on: February 07, 2014, 04:40:52 AM »
Question on Sam Pae's tail handles, would it work on the nose? 


My experience says no. I think the nose rocker would cause the board to kick up, hard.

These techniques work best for me with the tail pulled down, to ensure the board doesn't kick up when the white water hits. I place my forearm across the tail pad and push down, while gripping the rail saver with my other hand. It works for our size waves.


PonoBill

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 24831
    • View Profile
Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #20 on: February 07, 2014, 07:18:45 AM »
DW is right--doesn't work as well, but it works, especially with rounder nose boards.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

paddlinglass

  • Waikiki Status
  • *
  • Posts: 49
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #21 on: February 07, 2014, 09:50:07 AM »
How many your age are surfing waves that big ?
Gotta think not many.
Impressive you still do.

maui wave warrior

  • Sunset Status
  • ****
  • Posts: 324
    • View Profile
Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #22 on: February 07, 2014, 10:23:47 AM »
This is the method I use which I have found to be the best even in DOH+ surf. I jump into the water behind my board and put my hand directly on the back of the tail gripping the edge of the board. Just as the wave gets to me I push down on the tail while also pushing forward and up on the board. At the same time I duck under the wave with my one arm being the only thing above water, this tightens the lease somewhat which keeps the board from flying out of control. What I am doing is basically the same thing as standing on the board and shooting it over the wave but I feel I have much more control. You will get little to no pull or stress on your leash, your board will usually end up very close when you surface, your board will not be flying in the air, and you will make others in the lineup happy. I have used this technique for a long time and had many comment to me on how well it seems to work. The only drawback is you will need to be able to deal with your body taking some turns in the bigger surf since you really can't do this and dive down deep. DISCLAIMER!! In the really really big stuff like 20ft+ faces you are pretty much at the mercy of the wave so no techinque is full proof.

PonoBill

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 24831
    • View Profile
Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #23 on: February 07, 2014, 03:08:15 PM »
How many your age are surfing waves that big ?
Gotta think not many.
Impressive you still do.

The trick is that I'm still the same 19 year old shithead on the inside.

I use MWW's technique a lot. It's good for about DOH, then it starts to not work quite as well for me. Maybe I'm not doing it quite right. Kicking your board over is mostly for when you were trying to get over a wave and it finally dawns on you that you ain't gonna make it. Kicking it over and taking the spin cycle on your body is a lot better IMHO than diving under the face of the wave--it's too easy to break a leash diving, If you kick over, or push over like MWW says, your board doesn't go anywhere. You, on the other hand, will.
« Last Edit: February 07, 2014, 03:12:32 PM by PonoBill »
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

Beasho

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2947
    • View Profile
Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #24 on: February 07, 2014, 03:26:55 PM »
Not to belittle anybody getting caught inside... but THIS is getting caught inside.
I'd die for sure.

I will chime in once again: 1) Wear Float   2) Wear a Waist Leash

Note how identical these two waves look.  Same day, both within an hour of each other.  Would you rather be:

1) Mark Healey?  Or
2) Haley?  

Yellow or Blue, which would you chose?

« Last Edit: February 07, 2014, 04:24:04 PM by Beasho »

Beasho

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2947
    • View Profile
Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #25 on: February 07, 2014, 03:32:57 PM »
Deep Thoughts On FLOAT:  I asked my friend Rich what he thought about the latest CO2 jackets.  He replied:  

"I have advised Haley and you, float shirt inside and coast guard approved wakeboard vest outside.  Based on beatings Haley has taken it seems to be good approach, finding pull tabs while getting a-s kicked or while knocked out doesn't seem right approach.  Think about Alex, he was not able to pull tabs when he just about drown." e.g. WEAR TWO VESTS

50 year old Software Exec. Haley reports:

"People suggested that I was rattling around in the barrel.  I could feel water, barrel spray and I was like ‘this is the craziest thing that has ever happened to me.’  Who cartwheels down the wave?   I kept wondering ‘how come I haven’t penetrated?'  I couldn’t figure out whether I penetrated or if the lip hit me.   Then I got sucked back up and over.  I knew it was going to be bad, but I got 2 breathes on the way down while cartwheeling.   I was super calm and just kept on breathing, it was really weird. . . When I was down it was 2 full paddles to the surface.  2 full over the top strokes to get to the top. (aka ONLY 2!) I knew that if I didn’t fight I am going down for 2 waves.  If I was supposed to pull the air bladder flotation there was no way I could of pulled it because I was flipping so fast on the face."  

Mark Healey:  Hawaiian Big Wave Star takes this wave AND another on the head.  No Buoyancy.  At 0:55 he is COOKED.  Note the eyes.  Finally he capitulates and inflates his vest.  You be the judge.
  
Mark Healey Caught Inside At Mavericks - TransWorld SURF

Maybe this would look goofy in Hawaii but I have never regretted the the waist leash and when you position yourself like this it will pull you to the surface.  
« Last Edit: February 07, 2014, 04:22:23 PM by Beasho »

PonoBill

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 24831
    • View Profile
Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #26 on: February 07, 2014, 04:17:55 PM »
Funny you should mention that. Last night when I was getting my ass handed to me at outer Tavares I had just seen a young guy wearing a float jacket. His looked almost like a heavy shirt, at first I didn't think it was a float/impact jacket, just a neoprene vest, but he later told me it was. It would have been nice to have had one. I was really happy to hit air when I did. I have an old Da Kine impact/float vest that I never wear. Too bulky. After last night I need to either:
1. look into newer float jacket designs
2. Quit surfing tricky spots in big surf.

I've sworn off Tidy Bowls, but I'm not ready to abandon the outer reefs quite yet. I guess it's #1.

I'll also try the waist leash. I prefer calf right now but I'll have to give waist leashes a try.

Do you find the newer vest to be easy to swim in? I had to swim quite a way in my Da Kine kite impact vest, and it sucked.

What kind of vest do you use, what have you seen that you liked?
« Last Edit: February 07, 2014, 04:28:59 PM by PonoBill »
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

Beasho

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2947
    • View Profile
Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #27 on: February 07, 2014, 04:25:40 PM »
Do you find the newer vest to be easy to swim in? I had to swim quite a way in my Da Kine kite impact vest, and it sucked.
We all wear the O'Neill Goorus UNDER our wetsuits.  Not a problem to swim with these.

http://www.evo.com/wakeboard-vests/oneill-gooru-padded-comp-vest.aspx?CA_6C15C=820565590000136414#utm_campaign=child_EB-53361-1034_even&utm_source=Amazon&utm_medium=shoppingengine  

In Hawaii you are going to have to wrestle more with the ego.  No one notices under a wetsuit, you just look more Yeti-ish.  My friend Jim at OB in San Francisco says he hides behind a tree to put his on.  Learned his lesson surfing when his parents were visiting & watching.  It was only 8 feet so he thought no need for float.  Next thing he knows he's pinned to a sandbar thinking 'My god I am going to die with my parents watching because my ego wouldn't let me put on that damn jacket.'  Now he, and I, laugh at Double Overhead.    
« Last Edit: February 07, 2014, 04:30:51 PM by Beasho »

PonoBill

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 24831
    • View Profile
Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #28 on: February 07, 2014, 04:31:46 PM »
I almost died at Lahina Breakwall in head high surf with instructors pushing people into reform fifty feet away. Pinned on the bottom, could NOT get to the surface. I finally got my feet under me and leaped.

I don't have much ego. At 67 most of it was laughed out of me.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

Dwight (DW)

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 4434
    • View Profile
    • supSURFmachines
Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #29 on: February 07, 2014, 05:35:49 PM »
Speaking of jacket problems.  I've had my jacket nearly ripped off.

I like to wear a water shirt over it to hide it. The shirt has pulled up and wrapped around my head a few times too.

Those football jerseys surprised me. You must be cool with them pulled over your heads sometimes?

FYI, there are a bunch of us in NC that wear jackets in hurricane swell when surfing the outer breaks at the inlet. More for the separation than anything. Limited buddy system being that far out and separated. Can't even find each other sometimes.

 


SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2021, SimplePortal