How to get into a wave on Allwave?

[Board Stiff]

I've been trying to learn to SUS for the past couple summers on an 11'6 cruiser (no prone surfing experience before that) and have got to the point where I can pretty reliably catch a small to medium sized wave and ride it straight into shore, or occasionally enter at an angle or turn just enough to ride down the line if the conditions are just right.

I recently got an 8'10 Allwave and could use some tips on how to adjust to this board and continue to improve my SUS skills. I'm finding it particularly challenging to get into waves that I could easily catch on my longer board. On the cruiser, my technique was to stand in parallel stance right over the handle, paddle hard, as the wave approached, and lean forward almost like a downhill skier as the tail started to lift and take another stroke or two, and then jump into a surf stance as the board slid right into the wave.

On the Allwave, I can't seem to get the positioning right. Taking the same approach as on my cruiser, the waves seem to pass right under me. If I lean or step forward more, the stubby nose seems to plow into the water, slowing me down. If I lean or step back, the board just rides up and over the wave. The only thing that's helped any is trying to catch the waves closer to shore where the shortboarders are lined up, just as the waves are starting to break.

Is there something I can do differently that will make it easier to enter waves a little earlier? I'm sure more practice will help, but any tips to help me shortcut some trial and error would certainly be appreciated! 

[TallDude]

I hope you kept your old board, because you are going to need 'more wave' for that Allwave. Depending on your weight, that Allwave may not see as many day of use as your old longer board. My short board needs a steeper faster wave, otherwise I not going to catch much. I usually take two boards with me when I go SUS'g. 

[Board Stiff]

Hey TallDude, I'll definitely hang on to my old board for flatwater, and maybe the occasional small wave session too. I actually had an easier time on the Allwave catching smaller (1-2') waves this past weekend than larger (4-5') waves tonight, though. Could be that I'm not as comfortable on the larger ones yet and am trying to catch them too far out before they get steep enough to drop into easily. Most of the other SUSers were catching them further out than I was able to, but they appeared to be on longer boards too. Still, I figured I ought to check my technique before I blamed the board. 

[supthecreek]

A 3 foot drop is pretty significant…. especially for your short surfing experience. It will take time and patience. You will have MUCH less glide now, and will not be able to slide on to a building swell. You will have to be closer to where the waves break. The Allwave will plow if you move too far forward trying to catch a wave that is not ready to break.

I would say that you just need to spend as much time as you can in the surf. Small days are best to learn on. It is much easier to stay positioned near where the wave breaks. Hone you skills in an empty area at “the wall” in Hampton, on small days. Soon it will be second nature and you will be ready to step up to bigger waves.

Something you might want to pratice:
Hang inside, right where the break is… aiming slightly out to sea.
When you see a wave coming, paddle on ONE side only…. Parrellel to the break till the wave is almost on you, time it so your paddling slowly turns you toward the beach, just as the wave reaches you, then paddle smoothly on the same side  as the wave lifts you up. By then you should be  aiming more toward the beach, but slightly in the direction you want to ride the wave.

Example
Hampton… regular foot….looking to go right

Face out, and slightly north
Wave approaches… paddle on the right side only
Wave reaches you… you are now aiming in… but slightly looking at the right shoulder of the wave.
Paddle firmly on the right side, staying balanced as the wave picks you up. You are taking off on an angle to the right, with your paddle on the wave side…. Perfect for your turn.

Repeat till natural… enjoy the trip.

[crtraveler]

It is a matter of timing also.... with the cruiser, you could just paddle real hard and you would catch the wave even if your timing was way off cause the board had so much glide...with the 8'10" AW there is a much smaller "window" where you will be in the right position to catch the wave.... timing is everything, hard to explain, but once you get it, it becomes much easier.... hang in there

[spookini]

Ditto what they all said..

Boardstiff, in order to get a sense of "when" the Allwave will take off, you might want to try prone-surfing it a few times during your next session.  I've found that on shorter SUPs, proning gives me a bunch better sense of "oh -- now I get it"... the 'window' crtraveler talked about, of when to jump on the wave.

At 8-10 (x30.5"?), your AW should be narrow enough to prone paddle.  It only takes a few waves before you get the timing down.  Once you do, it makes standup paddling into waves much easier.  Plus, while you're on your belly, the proners will think you're cool and mistake you for one of them. 

[Board Stiff]

Thanks for the great advice, guys! Creek, your suggestions will definitely help me focus my efforts rather than continuing with random trial and error. Traveler, timing seems like one of those things I'll have to learn by feel rather than instruction, but it's encouraging to hear that it comes with practice and I'm not doomed to a life of kookdom (as far as SUSing goes anyway)! 

Spook, do you think the detour to learn to prone surf this board with no prior prone surfing experience will accelerate my SUS learning enough to be worth it? It'd be fun to learn to prone surf just for the hell of it, but with limited available time on the water as the days are getting shorter, I want to get the most bang for my buck, so to speak. Though infiltrating the proner subculture as a SUP sleeper agent might be reason enough to go for it! 

[spookini]

Stiffy, I'm not saying you should spend a whole session proning...
Just try leaving the paddle on the beach for a few waves.
As far as no experience proning, it's not too hard.  Wait for the board to take off, then try to stand up. 
Just saying, it might give you a more natural feel of when the board "wants" to take-off.

Compared to a longer SUP, yes the takeoff on your short AW is going to feel 'late' or 'vertical'. (I had the AW 9'2"..).  One thing to be aware of is weighting your back foot after the takeoff --standing hard on the tail.  Doing so will get you past the initial moment when the board is pitching forward and wanting to submarine.

[PabstSUP]

One of the techniques that has helped on my 8'10" Allwave (transitioning from a 10'6" Hobie) is getting into a staggered stance before dropping into the wave.  I'll start paddling with my feet parallel on the board but transition to a staggered stance with my knees bent with a lower center of gravity a few seconds before dropping into the wave.  I tend to get more power and drive with my paddle strokes using this method and it also allows me to pump the board up and down to get into the wave if needed.  I've seen this technique used more with shorter boards like the SimSUP (thanks Fanman!).  

[Board Stiff]

ahh, I get it now, Spooky. Good call, I'll give that a shot next time out.

PabstSUP, I messed around a little with a staggered or surf stance the first few times out but have a real hard time balancing and paddling like that even when there aren't any waves. Maybe that's something I need to work on more too.

Do most shorter-board SUSers get in a staggered or surf stance before they start to make the drop into the wave? Creek, what kind of stance would you recommend for the exercise you suggested?

So much to learn, thank god for the Zone!

[SUP Boston]

I believe the staggered stance for paddling recommendation is your parallel stance but with one foot back - don't have both feet lined up in the center-line of the board like surfing... this should help with balancing. Try your back foot at a 45 degree angle pointing out - this may help as well... once you catch the wave, you can move your feet towards a more traditional surf stance. As others have mentioned, the staggered stance will help with your ability to weight or un-weight the board front to back but still keep your right/left balance...

[gtcali]

I'm having the EXACT same problem you're having on my new Blair 8'10".  1'-2' was fine, then it got chest high and I started struggling.  I'm trying staggared stance.  It's like I get excited and the board will tip to one side right as i'm going to catch the wave.  I think some said above paddle smooth...that seemed to help.  I say in my head "stay smooth....don't get excited..." as im paddling for a wave.

We just need time on the board...hopefully.

[supsurf-tw]

Yep as the others said. Surf stance, get lower and be paddling on your frontside. This is the most powerful stroke. Weight on front foot then shift to back foot once in.

[Board Stiff]

gtcali, that sounds like my experience too. I think more time will certainly help us get more stable, and timing/positioning (relative to the wave) will help avoid the frantic and destabilizing paddling and side switching I currently do as the wave approaches.

supsurf-tw, I'm still learning the lingo... when you say paddle on the frontside, do you mean in staggered stance with left foot forward/right foot back, to paddle on my right side?

[supsurf-tw]

gtcali, that sounds like my experience too. I think more time will certainly help us get more stable, and timing/positioning (relative to the wave) will help avoid the frantic and destabilizing paddling and side switching I currently do as the wave approaches.

supsurf-tw, I'm still learning the lingo... when you say paddle on the frontside, do you mean in staggered stance with left foot forward/right foot back, to paddle on my right side?

Yes. You have the most power of any stroking position like this. For an extra pop shift down to first gear by grabbing the paddle lower with both hands.