Author Topic: stoneaxe in the house (Read 5000 times)

Admin · « **Reply #15 on:** April 25, 2008, 05:32:02 PM »

Quote from: Byronmaui on April 25, 2008, 10:32:33 AM

Now if Pono Bill reveals the spot with the 500 yard waves in Kihei I would be pissed because I normally have that spot to myselfByron

Flowrider?

Byronmaui · « **Reply #16 on:** April 25, 2008, 06:38:18 PM »

Man you can't keep a secret. Oh well.
Aloha

Byron

PonoBill · « **Reply #17 on:** April 26, 2008, 12:37:04 AM »

I'm doing some research for an article I'm writing about dealing with attitude, and one thing i keep seeing in articles, blogs, etc. is the phrase "for the good of surfing". It's usually applied in the negative, as "you're just trying to sell surfboards, you're not doing this for the good of surfing".

For me this translates just about the same way that "fair" does. As in "that's not fair" which means "that's not good for me". Who is the judge about what's good for surfing? Where is this rulebook? More surfers is certainly good for the shops and shapers. Certainly good for the political influence of surfers as people who care about the ocean. certainly bad for people who want to have public places all to themselves. Aw, gee.

The greater good--the grouchy bastard walking his dog, the surfer who'll get pissed because you told someone about his mediocre secret spot (which by the way is NEVER a secret)--is an endless conceit. There's always someone who feels they have a right and even a duty to cut you off and shut you down. Perhaps I take this too far, but I think it's actually pretty important not to let that happen. One of those freedoms that people thought enough about to die for. I'm kind of touchy about giving those up.

I don't believe in crowding breaks, and i don't believe in encouraging people to SUP where traditional surfers gather. I do believe in pointing out that there's a lot of ocean, a lot of coastline, and a lot of lakes, rivers and ponds. Stand Up extends the areas that we can play in. It wouldn't be all that interesting if all you could do is cram in with the longboarders.

It really is like the monster break in Kihei. Funny thing is there really is one, actually two. Never anyone there.