Messages

1

Gear Talk / Re: Buckled board repair?

« on: September 27, 2013, 07:09:42 AM »

People throw the trained by Eva around too loosely.

FYI: I trained Josh for two months full time, one-on-one.
and for whatever its worth: I would take a close look at the guts of this bottom, because the buckle is entirely too regular to not be caused by some sort of manufacturer's defect - a butt-joint in the sandwich material or some such unfortunate thing?
Eva

2

SUP General / Re: Expadition style Paddling

« on: December 20, 2012, 03:47:41 PM »

Piece of 8 said: "I would love to take a week and SUP through the Panama Canal"
When you went through on that 40fter, did you not notice how tough it is to hold your craft in the locks? and did you not notice all those crocodiles and caymans, particularly in Gatun Lake??
no, thank you!

3

SUP General / Re: Best way to add a fin box to an SUP?

« on: August 18, 2012, 02:56:42 PM »

you'd have the least amount of hassle, and the strongest installation, if you went with a Deep Tuttle, since that already comes set into a stout Divinycell cartridge. However, if your SUP is thicker than 4.75", it would require some fiddling

4

Gear Talk / Re: Strange white spots on Fanatic Fly Race (carbon)

« on: July 24, 2012, 08:21:45 PM »

moisture is being absorbed into the paint. whatever air circulation may exist in your bag because you opened the zipper, is disrupted by rack pads and straps, forming permanent wet spots.
When you place a wet board into the bag, more than a pound of water can adhere to the cut pores of the pad, as well as the board's surface. When you place board in bag in warm sun, this water vaporizes. The water vapor molecule is vastly smaller than the solid water molecule, so can easily permeate paints that are watertight. Alas, they may not all be vaportight.
Try keeping this board out of the bag for a few weeks, so the paint could dry completely. Depending on just how clean the water is where you paddle, it might dry without leaving permanent discoloration

5

SUP General / Re: Any board repair people in Atlanta GA?

« on: July 13, 2012, 07:41:06 AM »

the color part is the easy part: take the board to an automotive paint shop! they'll scan it and mix you a can of paint, rattle-can or otherwise

6

Gear Talk / Re: Walmart SUP

« on: December 06, 2011, 01:06:07 PM »

grain pattern regularity and repeats etc could signal a man-made veneer, as
is commonly used by the good people at Cobra: they make Thai hardwood cut-
offs into pulp, dye it whatever (you want Teak?), and press it into sheets
using a synthetic glue. Real wood fibers, but better, because of a more durable
glue, and because the little capilaries are discontinuous, so the product
does not respond as much to changes in temperature and humidity as the
"natural" veneer does. Good stuff, and good for the environment, too!

7

The Shape Shack / Re: System Three SB-112 surfboard resin compatibility question

« on: August 14, 2011, 12:57:09 PM »

besides being a good structural Epoxy and fairly resistant to UV degradation, sb112 is one of the few that can safely be topcoated with Polyester if you want that glossy finish. Most other Epoxies are softened by the Styrene in Polyester, and while things may look cured on the surface, they float on a gooey interface.

8

SUP General / Vertigo

« on: June 11, 2011, 12:49:14 PM »

Surfcowboy mentioned vertigo in one of his recent posts. I've had it off and on for the last 10 years, and been variously diagnosed with Benign Paroxysmal Positional Vertigo and/or Meniere's. Sometimes, the exercises I was given for the BPPV help it, sometimes they make it worse. I am tired of it!! Anyone else here have it? Do you take meds for it? Does your physician seem to have a handle on it? Any and all insight would be much appreciated!
Eva
PS: almost forgot why I wanted to write this you in the first place.... obviously, it won't do at all to get water in the affected ear, but until recently, I could not use normal plugs, because they would change the internal pressure and cause nausea. Now I use "Doc's Proplugs" which are vented. They work beautifully, even when I wipe out windsurfing.

9

Gear Talk / Re: Upkeep of wood laminate boards

« on: June 08, 2011, 10:46:39 AM »

you have another thing working in your favor re longevity of this board, and that is the clearly visible layer of fiberglass over the veneer, resulting in a much thicker barrier between the outside world and your wood fibers. Most all the veneer splitting I saw in my shop were with boards where there was no glass on the exterior, just a clear-coat or resin coating

10

Gear Talk / Re: Upkeep of wood laminate boards

« on: June 07, 2011, 04:45:06 PM »

the markings are so amazingly even that I would suspect this to be a man-made veneer: real wood fibers made into a pulp, dyed pleasantly (you want Rosewood or Teak?) and glued back together (such as many of the Cobra-built Surftechs use). In which case you'd have no worries whatever, because the water-channeling ability is disrupted.
(never forget the first wood veneer Surftech to come into my shop: oh, this sure looks like Ash!, so I got a sheet and proceeded with the repair. Nope, waaaay too coarse. Alright, Hickory, then. Another sheet, another $60.-. Nope, waaay too pink. Desperate, I called the office: "its an Italian Designer lumber", said Mr French, and would I care to get some? Well, YES! 3 days later I get a package, a biddy package, with a dozen 2x4" samples of his Italian Designer lumber. Now, what, pray, was I going to do with those bits, when faced with real-world (i.e. bigger) dings? Eventually, they parted with more sizeable factory cut-offs.....

11

Gear Talk / Re: Upkeep of wood laminate boards

« on: June 07, 2011, 01:47:29 PM »

doubt its Teak (Teak does not laminate well, due to its high oil content). Care to post details?
Generally, veneer is good in moderate climes, and fares poorly in extremes of moisture and/or heat: the "encapsulation" cannot be complete, since all coatings are to a certain degree permeable; and the veneer, though processed lumber, will always remember that it came from a tree, and retain its remarkable propensity to channel moisture. Humidity changes will result, and with it splitting, cracking of the coating, and exacerbated symptoms. Keep it away from extremes, though, and it will do just fine!

12

Gear Talk / Re: Vent plug

« on: May 26, 2011, 08:12:22 PM »

Easyrider lives in a cold climate, so he won't have to worry much about venting his board. But if it gets hot where you are, or you drive over a mountain with your board, or fly with it, trust me, you want to vent your board. Trust me on this!

13

Gear Talk / Re: Long screw needed :)

« on: May 22, 2011, 10:03:16 AM »

the problem: screw plate rests on bottom of fin box slot, out of reach of most screws. The remedy: the screw plate lifter! This nifty device comes in a rainbow of colors and is available at all office supply stores for about a penny

14

Whitewater and River SUP / Re: SUP the Kern

« on: May 17, 2011, 12:06:57 PM »

you may have to wait 'til July for 2000cfm - we have a 140% of "normal" snow pack in the local mountains, so it'll be 6k+ on the upper once it warms up a bit, with the lower at about 4k

15

Whitewater and River SUP / Re: SUP the Kern

« on: May 16, 2011, 03:30:11 PM »

maybe, we could coordinate another try to SUP on the Kern? a fair number of my pals who come up to Isabella to windsurf, also SUP, and were quite interested in meeting up with you