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Messages - 1medic
1
« on: January 26, 2014, 10:32:41 PM »
Thanks for the info boys! I'm throwing in the towel and going to see Felix at Sand Dollar. I have some "degree of craziness" but no spare time right now and need to get it done. Already have a replacement valve from Hobie.
2
« on: January 26, 2014, 09:04:01 PM »
I Have a 2012 Hobie Elite 14'. The air vent housing needs to be removed and re-glued. It leaks on outside of outer flange at the surface of deck. Whats the best way to remove it? I'm assuming heating it a bit with a heat gun (carefully). Any different ideas out there?
3
« on: September 23, 2013, 04:53:56 PM »
Got a rare opportunity to do a flume session with both Jamie Mitchell and Jim Terrell. These guys are awesome! Along with the great stroke instruction, got some really good tips on racing strategy and water awareness. What was really insightful was their take on other elite paddler's techniques and strokes.
Come on!! What the story? You can't tease us like that.
4
« on: September 21, 2013, 06:13:02 PM »
I've got Barks and I replace the metal philips head vent plug screw with the plastic thumb screw style so i can open and close the vent without tools.
5
« on: September 14, 2013, 10:00:56 PM »
Any luck on this? I'm also looking (also NorCal) for a good repair shop
Is your close to Santa Cruz go to Sand Dollar Surfboard Repair http://www.dingrepair.net/Felix is a quality guy. Myself and all my friends have had nothing but great service from Felix.
6
« on: July 21, 2013, 10:14:59 AM »
When going to bigger blade, wiki to Maliko, do you add the extra length of the blade to overall paddle length to allow you to bury the entire face?
Yes, That is what I did with my Maliko and Molokai paddles.
7
« on: May 04, 2013, 08:43:09 AM »
[/quote]
Rough water and strong current conditions Gladiator Hybrid. In mild to glassey conditions Ninja. Feel free to call me at the factory 310-530-1383. Mahalo,Larry [/quote]
Larry, Would you have the same fin recommendation for a 12'6"x26" Starboard Surf Race in the same conditions?
8
« on: December 09, 2012, 05:59:59 PM »
I tried the paddle and am not that impressed. It seams a lot of hype for a paddle with no pedigree. I don't see any elite racers raving about them. Sponsor or not the good stuff is always used. ie SIC with other logos. I guess it is in the eye of the beholder but I think a few Zoners are drinking the cool aid. Its not the holy grail to sup. DMS
I suggest you do more than just "try" one before you slam some of us Zoners thinking we drink kool aid. I have 7 paddles that are all the top brands and 2 KeNalu's. I periodically test them all and find the KeNalu's out preform the others in all conditions. One thing to keep in mind is if you don't like a KeNalu then your stroke may need some work. They reward good stroke technique.
9
« on: November 30, 2012, 02:19:23 PM »
shorter does seem like the new trend but I think the correct answer is trial and error, you gotta find out what works for you, everyone is different, some have longer upper bodies, or have more muscular frames, body composition has to be a major role.
I personally think you have more control with a slightly shorter paddle, since getting nto racing this past summer I purchased a Kialoa toro with 9-10 inches overhead, I'm having difficulties with fluttering, dont know if its the extra length or the paddle blade, anybody else experience this? I'm thinking about trying to make it shorter but dont want to mess up the paddle.
Your right about trial and error. Your Kialoa Toro issue may be a combination of things. During the power phase of your stroke you want to make sure; your grip is loose during your power phase, have the paddle shaft vertical as well as not "muscling" the paddle. For example pulling yourself past your paddle with a "firm" not "hard"stroke. The Kialoa blade design is not very forgiving when it comes to fluttering but it is controllable with a structured stroke technique.
10
« on: November 29, 2012, 09:43:07 PM »
Thanks. I had been figuring that 14er would be the most suggested....I just had concerns about wether the longer board would pearl quicker....if I ever catch a wave..... [/quote] Look at the Starboard Coast Runner 14' (carbon). It has a nose that won's pearl easily and it's a quick board that excels when it gets rough.
11
« on: November 28, 2012, 10:32:17 PM »
At your size stick with a 14' unless you go with a higher volume 12'6" such as the Starboard Race 12'6" x 29.5" at 277 liters of volume.
12
« on: November 22, 2012, 08:54:16 PM »
Give us the overall length and the width in the middle and I'll see how it compares to what I have.
13
« on: November 20, 2012, 10:25:33 PM »
5 minute epoxy will work fine. But if you foresee cutting the shaft more than once then get the heavy duty hot melt glue (yellow) from Ace. Thanks to Pono Bill this is all I haved used. I have used it on Kialoa's, Quickblades, KeNalu's and many other brands with great success.
14
« on: November 16, 2012, 10:33:13 PM »
Our local (in Santa Cruz. Ca) harbor is going to be enforcing an old launch fee schedule of $10 per launch. It has been free for as long as I can remember to self launch your SUP. It's creating quite a controversy around here.
Anyone out there have to pay money (or not) to paddle in your local harbor ? If so how much do you pay?
15
« on: November 06, 2012, 09:50:10 PM »
I prefer to use one of these as a cutting guide
http://www.parktool.com/product/threadless-saw-guide-for-carbon-composite-forks-sg-8
with hacksaw and fine-tooth blade
Haven't cut many paddle shafts but have done my share of CF fork steerer tubes etc. Masking tape to prevent splintering/fraying and a drip-drip of water to lubricate the cut and keep the dust down.
Me to. I've cut many carbon shafts without issue.
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