Messages

1

The Shape Shack / Re: preserving rocker during lamination

« on: November 08, 2015, 07:11:03 PM »

Yes, NICE finish!  Can you tell me please what prep sanding did you do?  I.E. to what grit?

2

The Shape Shack / Re: Goretex vents... one or two for a 14'

« on: November 08, 2015, 07:06:02 PM »

The Gore website addresses this concern and provides a Q&A form with specific volume, temperature, etc. entries for them to calculate how many vents you might need.

I can tell you from direct personal experience that in the case of a black carbon 11 footer that I owned, one was not enough.  This was discovered after the board was left on top of the car in direct sun on a fairly hot day - not as hot as Florida, but hot enough.  Result = a massive blow-out delamination that rendered the board a total loss.

Assume the worst and try to plan accordingly.  Even with 2 vents, don't leave the board in direct sun for any length of time.  As has already been pointed out, not only can a board delaminate, EPS foam can melt and collapse after a certain temperature.  Dark boards get hot fast when left in direct sun.

3

SUP General / Morro Bay Halloween Witches Paddle....

« on: November 01, 2015, 11:08:08 AM »

Some of the local witches have made it an annual tradition....

4

The Shape Shack / Re: Marko foam vs. US Blanks

« on: October 28, 2015, 11:56:20 PM »

"Why is bead fusion better than hotwire cut?"

Both types - block and molded blank are fused.  The smaller molds used for the closer tolerance blanks arguably have better steam penetration (and bead fusion) when they actually expand the beads to full size.  The blocks I've seen are huge and sometimes there are sections where the steam didn't fully penetrate and the beads aren't as tight.

USBlanks markets their molded EPS as "Super fused."

5

The Shape Shack / Re: Marko foam vs. US Blanks

« on: October 28, 2015, 01:25:52 PM »

Hi -

I'm sure you know that Marko specializes in EPS foam products... surfboard/SUP blanks are basically a sideline that has grown in to it's own specialty department.  USBlanks does the urethane foam (Clark) and EPS.  It is arguably better for bead fusion in EPS foam to have the blank molded as opposed to a hotwire cut from a big block. 

That said, both companies offer molded EPS as well as 'sled cut' blanks from blocks.  I don't know if USBlanks offers a cutting service but Marko definitely has a CNC cutter onsite and is capable of taking your file and transforming a sled cut blank to one that is ready to sand and glass with very little shaping required.  I have personally contacted them and they do have a few 'stock' files they can use if you are not able to design your own file.  These CNC cut blanks will arrive very close to finish shaped - think 'close tolerance' as opposed to a squared off/full thickness rail.

One big consideration with CNC blanks is potential for damage during transport.  A sled cut blank can take all kinds of hits and you will likely be able to shape around any damage.  A finished shape is far more vulnerable.

Anyway, check out both companies and email them with specific questions.  I've had good responses from both and I'm a very low volume backyard builder.  I have no experience with WNC or other computer shapers.  They likely do very good work but transporting raw blanks, having them cut, and then transporting the finished shapes to the glasser could be a pain if you don't live close by.

6

The Shape Shack / Re: First 14' SUP Race Board Attempt

« on: April 06, 2011, 04:15:49 PM »

Incredible first board!
FWIW the Fast and Final is an acrylic base with microballoon filler.  No problem bonding with epoxy.
I have also used white acrylic based KILZ paint mixed with microballoons.  It worked fine but didn't sand quite as easily as the lightweight spackle.
It has been recommended that distilled water be used to thin the filler... mineral deposits from tap water can leave stains under the glass if you glass clear.

7

The Shape Shack / Re: Foam Block Question

« on: April 06, 2011, 04:03:23 PM »

Noted board builder Bill Foote adds length to his blanks that way.  Note the tail section seam in this photo.  Looks like Gorilla Glue...

8

Gear Talk / Re: double paddles

« on: April 06, 2011, 03:43:28 PM »

I have some old movies/screenshot of the Duke himself using a double blade paddle on a SUP.  His board is big enough to accomodate 4 people.  In the film he is shown double blade paddling with a prone rider in the rear along with two female passengers.  Once on a wave, the rear paddler stands and the two women stand as well.  One of the women ends up on the one guy's shoulders.

I also have old movies/screenshot of a friend and his brother using double blade paddles on some hollow wooden paddleboards when they were kids.  They have a family cabin at a lake in Michigan where they have been doing it for nearly 40 years.

There is also some history of tandem riders using double blade paddles.  I have a pic of that as well.

My girlfriend likes the double blade as it allows her to have our dog onboard and not worry about hitting him in the head with every side-to-side change.  I will be sure to let her know that we are an embarrassment to some of the modern trend setting/Laird wannabe members of this forum.  My apologies in advance for any further embarrassment these photos may cause.

9

SUP General / Re: standup with dogs?

« on: December 24, 2010, 03:10:02 PM »

Lora and Ripley.  He loves his paddleboard.

10

Technique / Re: Major Hip Pain

« on: October 29, 2010, 07:18:22 PM »

Have you considered a long shaft/double bladed paddle?  They are too cumbersome for in the surf but in flat water your body is in a more aligned position and there is far less twisting as you paddle with a double blade.  I have made a couple and heard recently that one of the big manufacturers do them to custom order.  I think the guy said it was called the "Strider" model. 

11

Downwind and Racing / Re: Huki SUP

« on: July 02, 2010, 11:14:35 AM »

"I gotta guess it's hollow like a surf ski & with the vent tube in the nose?"

Agreed.  The exterior seam is another giveaway that the deck and hull are from separate molds.  Maybe it has foam ribs on the inside to support the deck?

12

The Shape Shack / Re: The best method for removing water from board.

« on: March 07, 2010, 12:52:42 PM »

Hi -

If you have access to a vacuum pump you might try poking some paper towel in to the dings, cover with a vacuum membrane (painter's drop cloth will do), attach vacuum line -can be done as easily as punching a hole in the membrane, inserting line and sealing with vacuum tack. Drill a small vent hole in the deck above your dings and apply vacuum.  Make sure the membrane doesn't seal itself over the line and you should be able to suck out most of the water in board.  You'll have that extra vent hole to plug up when finished but having an airflow through the board will speed things up.  Don't allow water to suck through the line in to your pump.  If you have a lot of water in the board, you might consider an inline water trap between the board and the pump.  You might combine Surf Monkey's air pump method attached at the deck vent hole with the vacuum on the dings so the system sucks and blows at the same time.

13

The Shape Shack / Re: SUP Building

« on: February 25, 2010, 08:21:56 PM »

Hi Guys - A question regarding terminology on concave bottoms...

I've seen one type that was dual concaves within a single deeper concave.  At least one guy referred to it as a "Triple Concave."

I've also seen the single concave that faded to a dual.  That has been referred to as a "Single to Double."

Not a big deal but for better understanding of what we're talking about, is there any consensus on that?

Also for a basic understanding of how a concave works, try the "Spoon in Faucet" experiment.  Simply dangle a spoon between two fingers and let the scooped side hit the water coming out of a faucet.  Now flip the spoon around and try letting the spoon side hit the water flow.  The spoon side (convex) sucks, the scooped side (concave) pushes itself out of the water flow. 

When combined with the right bottom rocker, a concave can be designed to create a lot of lift.  There's a reason the surfboard guys use them on the tiny chip boards the pros are riding... I don't think those boards would plane as well if they were convex on the bottom.

14

The Shape Shack / Re: Vacuum Bagging Magic

« on: December 12, 2009, 01:59:39 AM »

Hi Brian -

WOW... stunning detail on the board in that last photo!  The box looks super secure.

15

The Shape Shack / Re: HELP?...styrofoam board and polyester resin = BAD

« on: December 12, 2009, 01:52:34 AM »

Gorilla Glue foams up pretty good and will fill those voids.  It will weigh a bit less than if you pour epoxy in there.  Just grind it a little below flush after it cures and glass over.  Clear Gorilla Glue comes is available in a small bottle and cures off-white... not a bad color match with foam.