Anyone make a good longboard shaped 10'er?

[linter]

So you guys are saying that, all else being equal, the Starboard shape is likely to make for a better noserider than the Angulo/Fantatic/Surfcal shape?

Come on, you A/F/S people, defend yourselves!  Let's have it out: fatty up front or fat in the hips.  Let's hear it. 

[chipmonk]

I agree that not all SUP boards noseride well. And I hear what Bob from Brazil saying too that they can act a little funny even when they are "noseriding". I also have had some problelms getting it "slotted", like you do on a good noseriding longboard.

10' C4 classic is a good board, but it doesnt act like a noserider even when you get up on the nose.

Daum boards noseride well, even though the one that I had didnt seem to have any nose concave.

9'9 C4 Slingblade is one of the best noseriding SUPs I ever used (27 1/4" wide).

My 8'10 x 28" custom noserides pretty darn well, and acts like a peformance longboard in the way it does it.

I'm surprised nobody mentioned the Pearson Arrow 10'6. I heard froma good surfer that this board noserides very well. I also heard from a guy who owns it that it can be a handful because it is pretty flat.

Excessive width does seem like it might be a problem for getting slotted, I think there is something to those comments.

[1paddle2paddle]

So you guys are saying that, all else being equal, the Starboard shape is likely to make for a better noserider than the Angulo/Fantatic/Surfcal shape?

Come on, you A/F/S people, defend yourselves!  Let's have it out: fatty up front or fat in the hips.  Let's hear it. 

Linter, besides the outline, IMO the rocker profile actually plays as much if not a more important role in how a board noserides.  I know that a blunt nose outline profile screams "noserider," but if the board has too much rocker it will not want to allow you to perch up front and drink coffee, as the saying goes.  A board with a flatter rocker profile will allow more tip time (and the fin to stay in the water while you are up on the front).

Bob's point is also a good one - if you have too much volume, the board will want to rocket away from the power and not stay in the sweet spot for noseriding.

I think you could probably do some research on how to design a prone paddler noserider and the same principles would work for SUP, you would just have to have to make certain tradeoffs/considerations that are inherent to SUP.

[Pierre]

Another solution if you get a old 10'longboard: make it yourself 
http://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php?topic=4056.0

[southwesterly]

Why do you want to nose ride so bad? Most of the time when someone says that a board is a good nose rider, it usually means that the board is slow and needs to trim from the front third of the board where you can't carve turns.

[linter]

That's like asking why is water wet.  I dunno.  It just is!

But, yeah, this is all for the purposes of discussion.  That other stuff is important, too, obviously; but you've got primary considerations and secondary considerations; and noseriding as primary is what I'm interested in.

1P2P: I hear you about rocker profile ... that's why I said, 'all else being equal.' But we don't have pictures of the rockers so we can't compare those -- would that we could!

Thanks, all, for the input!

[Bob from Brazil]

Thanks for doing the noseriding research and experimentation.  I will keep in mind what you are saying about noseriding on SUPs.  Go for the shoulder and go 45 degrees.  I am going to test the pocket theory to see if I slide out.  I hope I don't get hurt.  I will try it on smaller waves.  What about right off the bottom turn and into the first big pocket of the wave.  A lot of times on longboard you can walk the nose right at that point.  What you are saying is that some SUP boards will slide if you walk the nose right at that point?

Diesel,

What I'm trying to say is that I feel that I don't have enough lift to keep walking and wrap my toes.

That doesn't happen in my 8'8 board. Unfortunately that board is being repaired and I don't carry any noseriding pics. However, I ordered an exact copy of that shape and it should be ready next week (which I believe will be ready sooner than the one being repaired). Anyway, as soon as I get the chance I'll post some pics. The reason I believe it noserides better is because it barely floats me. Therefore I can set the tail properly and counterbalance the flow of water above the board (applying a down force in the tail) vs. me on the nose.

If I don't get to set the tail properly I can only count with the uplifting forces in the nose (width, rocker and concave) to sustain noseriding. This is what I'm referring to noseriding in the shoulder (angled and not parallel to the wave).

I don't think slippery is an issue. It's only an issue when the tail breaks free from the wave. The biggest problem I face with boards with lots of volume is nosediving.

I'm posting two pics of the exact moment things start to get bad. In the first pic (11' Takayama) I was noseriding in the shoulder and, as you can see, the board is more angled than parallel in the wave. I don't have enough flow of water holding the tail and pushing it down. Lift comes only from the nose. Note the tail away from the curl. Bear in mind that this pic intends to show the exact point in which my noseriding was gone and why, not how this board noserides (which I think is a great board for that matter).

The second pic (11' Laird) I was trying to set the tail but there wasn't enough flow to sustain its trajectory. As you can see the board is going downwards, water is flowing through the board (more parallel but not enough to force the tail down). Water is also exerting uplifting force in the nose (notice the spray) but, again, not enough to keep me lifted. Therefore I needed to step back or the board would pearl.

Mahalos do Brazil,
Bob.

[shiner]

what about this shape then, never tried one but would like to.
http://www.gongsup.com/Never-Stick-10-1.html?lang=fr

[jdmotes]

 We have the NS10'6" that nose-rides like a mofo; but also turns on a dime, too... Here's a pic....       Later,      JD

[1paddle2paddle]

Bob, I believe your pictures (especially the second one) demonstrate exactly why too much board (or too much volume) makes SUP noseriding more difficult.  Classic noseriding is done right in the pocket, but a big board tends to send you out on to the shoulder away from the power.  On a big board it is hard to slow down the freight train and stay right in the pocket.

A smaller volume board will stall more easily and allow the rider to remain right in the pocket, where you want to be to ride on the nose.

[SUP Sports ®]

Here's a killer new 10'2" custom nose rider we did for Rob...a big guy that loves to nose ride...
Really got into it when he managed the Chart House in Malibu...

The "Mullet"...all business up front...party out the back...;-)

Seems to me, that if you can't find what you want in a production board...you HAVE to go custom...most production boards have had to make some compromises to hit mass market objectives...

Going custom, you pretty much only have yourself to blame...providing that you are working with a competent shaper...with well over three decades of surfing under my belt, I can count the surfboards that I've bought off the rack on one hand...virtually, all of them customs...

[linter]

A smaller volume board will stall more easily and allow the rider to remain right in the pocket, where you want to be to ride on the nose.

So if I want a 10' board x 30" wide, would thinning out the thickness achieve the proper effect?

Meanwhile, that French board is krazy kool!

[1paddle2paddle]

Linter, I think that's probably right.

Also, I would love to try that Gong board to see how it surfs.  Its shape is nothing short of outrageous.

[linter]

wardog: the outline of the mullet doesn't look all that different from the 10.5 starboard, just a little more extreme.  but the devil is in the details.  does it have concave in the bottom?  what's its rocker profile like?

1p2p: yeah, i'm all over that Gong board too.  looks like it could be a blast.

but about thickness/thinness -- let's say you have a board 10 x 30" x 4-3/8.  What happens to stability if you drop the thickness known to 4 or just sub 4?  Does it suddenly become as unstable as a regularly thick 10 x 28"?  Just wondering ...

[shiner]

a link to the gong in action

http://www.gongsup.com/Never-Stick-10-1,1066.html?lang=fr

these boards in europe are very well priced, maybe worth a try