Author Topic: One of my heros  (Read 6230 times)

Tom

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One of my heros
« on: November 02, 2013, 05:29:48 PM »
His name is mouse, he's 81 years old and SUPs or surfs just about every day there's surf


supthecreek

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Re: One of my heros
« Reply #1 on: November 02, 2013, 06:10:13 PM »
Excellent choice!
Go mouse... go!

SCruzSUPr

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Re: One of my heros
« Reply #2 on: November 02, 2013, 06:26:49 PM »
Love Mouse!  What a great role model!  I wanna be out there every day when I'm 81 too...
 :o
10' x 32"        Bill Foote  Triton
9'5" x 31"       Sunova Speeed
11'2" x 32"     Bill Foote 'Geezer Sled'

tribalthunder

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Re: One of my heros
« Reply #3 on: November 02, 2013, 06:58:31 PM »
Now that's a role model. Mouse, keep on Rockin' !
9' Cannibal Tear Drop
8'11" Exocet 32" wide

SUPcheat

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Re: One of my heros
« Reply #4 on: November 03, 2013, 04:50:58 PM »
Hmm, maybe there's hope for me yet.

Never on a board until 62, practiced in the harbor for ten months, the first four in panic and terror. Finally got enough balance to have reasonable confidence in those circumstances, lost 35 pounds.

Went out onto the ocean for the first time in May of this year and decided to learn it's ways slowly, whole order of magnitude more difficulty in balancing. Spent a lot of time on my knees, in panic, fear and disorientation again for a couple of months. Started knee surfing but rigorously staying away from the lineups between Private's and 41st St.

Started getting my basic ocean balance in July/August,  broke a rib Sep.15 (egod, that was painful) and stand up surfed my first wave about six weeks ago with the broken rib.

I now have surfed maybe 30 waves stand up. My board (Red Paddle Mega) is not an ideal surfing vehicle, but actually does all right all considered. Sometimes I just paddle into the waves on my knees and then stand up on them, get knocked off in the suds frequently.  My balance is getting decent, can negotiate the chop and ride over large waves and bounce around quite a bit without falling off. I am losing my fear of the ocean, but never my deepest respect.

I am still having trouble with my board dance and foot position, because I want to stay in my most stable position, but that is next on the practice agenda, I am just riding them in standing on the board.

I was embarrassed today a bit because a wave knocked me off.  I got back on and was sitting on the board getting oriented.  A big one hit me and knocked the paddle out of my hand and took me in "barco-lounger" surfing with me sitting upright on the board like a bullet all the way to shore.  That made me feel like more of a kook than usual.  Paddled back out by hand and found my paddle, but the breaks were way too crowded for me so went in.

Anyway, the rib is healed and I think by next summer I might have some modest skills.  It is nice to know it might be possible into 70's  or even more.  81 is still 17 years away.






« Last Edit: November 03, 2013, 05:16:21 PM by SUPcheat »
2013 Fanatic Prowave LTD 9'3"x30.5x@134L
Sunova Speeed 8'10"x29.12@131L
Sunova Flow 8'7"x30.25"@121L
Carbon 9.3x32@163L Hammer
Me: 6'1"@230 lbs 68 years old

supthecreek

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Re: One of my heros
« Reply #5 on: November 03, 2013, 06:17:09 PM »
17 good years ;)

Weasels wake

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Re: One of my heros
« Reply #6 on: November 03, 2013, 06:29:00 PM »
POWER TO THE OLD FUCKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And I say that in a loving way, I'm 63.  ;)
It takes a quiver to do that.

SlatchJim

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Re: One of my heros
« Reply #7 on: November 03, 2013, 06:45:01 PM »
At 50, My bar is now 81 and rising.  Great story Tom.

surfinJ

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Re: One of my heros
« Reply #8 on: November 03, 2013, 10:37:02 PM »
81 and still out there!  That's what I call a lottery winner.

Admin

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Re: One of my heros
« Reply #9 on: November 04, 2013, 06:49:52 AM »
Ole was at it into his 80's.  Quality.  A favorite recited piece of lineup lore - shows up at the beach one day and deadpan says "Boys, I have some bad news.   I've outlived my dick."


Puamana4me

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Re: One of my heros
« Reply #10 on: November 04, 2013, 08:56:25 AM »
John Zapotocky....paddling  at age 95 .

an original Waikiki beach boy . RIP my friend ...he passed away oct. 2013


http://www.c4waterman.com/2012/2013/10/15/sup-pioneer-c4-ohana-member-john-zapotocky-sr-passes-away-at-95/#!/-1/

supthecreek

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Re: One of my heros
« Reply #11 on: November 04, 2013, 05:43:09 PM »
Very cool! So much fun to watch a guy Johns age, still surfing a paddleboard so well.
Get up everyday and head for the water.

crkrider

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Re: One of my heros
« Reply #12 on: November 05, 2013, 03:04:13 AM »
catching a wave better than any anti-depressants in the world. And chicks dig surfers, particularly chicks who are all ready surfers. It's a win, win situation

coldsup

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Re: One of my heros
« Reply #13 on: November 05, 2013, 01:41:11 PM »
think I'll need to move somewhere warmer to surf into late years....otherwise summer only. Or...maybe wetsuits will be thin and totally heated by then :D

 


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