Outer Hebrides - Alone At Sea :)

[UKRiverSurfers]

After a three nights and four days of watching the tide ebb and flood, racing northwards towards Harris around the south east tip of Berneray, I'd decided to paddle right across the bay pretty mush as far as I could see. I'd been slowly building up with paddles getting a bit more adventurous as I got to know the waters.

We were staying by the amazing Blackhouse Youth Hostel.... Not bunking but parking in the van and using the facilities. The most amzing location I think i have ever been!

The tide race around the south east tip of Bernaray is Serious :shock:  So the only safe option was a tide coming to the end of the ebb gardually getting slack with about a two hour window of calm... 8-)

The weather was totally perfect as well, windy, but the wind was going exactly where I wanted to go. This would be the perfect Downwinder




Bernaray is just to the north of North Uist, connected by a causeway.

I have marked my route on the map.

I was heading for Cheese Bay, which is just infront ofthe hill you can see in the distance on the left of the shot. I would be looking for a small slipway at the bottom of the hill.



Ready for the off...


You can see the tide race exposed on the left in this shot.


This would be longest solo paddle yet, so to say I was a bit nervous was an understatement :!:












Within seconds the adventure had begun 





Nothing but open water and a few island ahead...


Harris looking across the end of the exposed race.


Looking back at my start point and, at the point of no return......The Event Horizon You can see the SYHA Blackhouse in the middle of the pick with East Beach to the right

By now the wind was really pushing me along, gradually getting stronger as I lost the shelter of Bernaray.


Lookin north towards Harris, Lewis and Pabay.




Cheese bay in the distance.


The Sound Of harris Ferry.... You can see a shallow reef under the board.


I was about half way by now and the wind was really doing its job... This was the closest land to me looking south.


Looking back


The water was amazingly clear and shallow in places...




I was now pretty close to the Starboard Bouy that I had used as a transit.


Bernaray over my right shoulder... :?


Blue sea...


My transit bouy and a milestone in the paddle...


By now Cheese Bay was looking a comfortable distance away. You can see the island that I held in transit with the bouy. I would need to paddle to the south of that island to get to my destination.


This was my first stop, about two thirds of the way... A quick map check just to make sure I was on course.






Not far now....


Looking back at distant Bernaray.....White caps starting to form

Bigger swell..



It wasn't long before I was amongst the Island that make up Cheese Bay...The only thing that could go wrong now, would be a wrong turn or head to the wrong island.


I had to check the map again. This island is called Sursaigh or Sursay and was exactly where I needed to be! I needed to paddle past the south of Taghaigh, the next island to the right of my finger.
It looks easy on the map, but in reality it can be quite confusing when down amongst the isles....they all look similar.


The tide had started to move a bit by now and was also pushing me along  





 

To be continued...

[UKRiverSurfers]

Looking back at my starting point Berneray....Seemed a long way off!

 






By now the tide was funneling nicely through a maze of channels...






The tide started to funnelthrough this channel the wrong way




You can see the small standing waves starting to form.









I felt a sense of relief as a saw the fist bit of civilisation.... I was pretty certain that had to be the way to the slipway..


Old croft...


I needed just one more map stop....I could see what seemed to be my destination but still couldn't make out the slipway.

#
You can see a man made cut in the rock on the top left of the shot..


The slipway must have been hiding somewhere?




Ta Da....! 

It's always nice coming in to a sheltered harbour when you've been battered by the wind for the last two hours







The Only two trees on North Uist :?:





The end!!

That evening we were treated to a VERY rare sight indeed....Something I have never even seen on the TV.....!!

You see seals contantly on Berneray... They are part of the woodwork, locals don't even look up to spot them, they are so common. You don't see this though...



Common Seals Breaching totally clean of the water... Just like dolphins. There were two of them, one male, one female. Mating ritual I think :?:

Here's a few more pics from Berneray...






Exposed tide race with Cheese Bay in the distance.




The Bunk House




The best campsite ever :?: 



Machair on Berneray...


West beach Bernaray...




Looking north with Harris in the background...



The South Pacific :?: 

[supthecreek]

Another great travelogue.

Risky solo paddling for sure
- That is a really barren place... distinct lack of aid available should things go bad.(I would carry a back up paddle)
- The tidal range is so severe, I can imagine that the quirks of flow through the islands and into the bays and channels creates some unexpected influence.
- The weather in that area generates plenty of wind

Sounds perfect for an adventure
I appreciate your use of the camera to show the entire experience.... including water depth, tidal influence, vegetation etc.

[UKRiverSurfers]

Yeah - It's about as wilderness as it gets in  the UK!

I always carry my PLB and yes, I did have a back up paddle, Werner Coryvrecken but I forgot it! That's what the foam seat is for, as the Lumber really suffers if sitting down to paddle with a double blade.

The tidal race on the east side of Berneray is like nothing I've seen before. It will throw up 10 foot standing waves with just a hint of breeze against it and moves at around 6 knots!   

[RAYBO]

Awesome voyages and great pictures,

I have to say you have steely resolve( to put it mildly, hey I am new)  to do a journey like that. It is unbelievably cold and desolate up there. That's Viking land up there. I love that cottage you took picture of, looked like it was hunkered down against the elements. And those last couple could have been the tropics. Beautiful pictures. It makes my weekend trips down the Intracoastal in Florida laughable by comparison. In fact when I get all flustered cause some mega yachts wake has caught me in shallows I will think of you.
I don't know where you are based in the UK but I have always fancied paddle boarding the Avon from Salisbury and out at Christchurch, don't if that is navigable all the way. I am sure you could portage over any weirs. Anyway keep up the expeditions. Very inspirational

Hampshire barn, Hampshire bred, strong in the arm, thick in the 'ead

[UKRiverSurfers]

Thanks Raybo

Yes the Avon is navigable but there are some access issues with regards to fishing. Some folk have had hassle from trout/salmon fishermen, but others have paddled it without problem.

Paddlepoints.net is a good website that should have some info!

Regards

Dave

[UKRiverSurfers]

http://paddlepoints.net/default.aspx

[Ichabod Spoonbill]

That was an amazing travelogue. Wow. What a beautiful, desolate landscape. I felt like I was gazing at scenery suitable for “Macbeth” or “King Lear”. Thank you very much.

[UKRiverSurfers]

Thanks..

It is an amazing place with some of the best waves the world has to offer, some of the strongest winds as well!