This never happens!

[wadadli_waterman]

.......epic swell.............over a weekend!!

We get this world class wave about 6 times a year at a break on the NW side of the island.  It depends mostly on a strong cold front off the east coast of the states that has to dig pretty far south.

Well, it was predicted.........and it delivered!  Outside of tropical strom swell this wave breaks biggest, fastest, and most hollow here.  It was the first time I have had the opportunity to really charge some proper swell and my board handled it so well!! 

The best part was at the very beginning of the session.  I went to the look-out at first light to check out what the break looked like........and there were already 5 guys out!  I was like......oh shit, as I didnt recognize any of them to be the local crew and I didnt want to have to contend with a crowd.   I paddled out from the next point over which makes me come into the break from offshore. 

As I was approaching the break I still could not recognise the surfers in the water.  I was about 30 yards outside the line up when this MACKER SET comes up.  I just happen to be in the right place but it looks so rediculous because I am still so far oustide and way too deep for the normal line up.  I think, well here it goes; if I screw this up my name will be mud forever.

I paddle for it and drop in right on the peak.  The wave is fast and glassy, the guys are all paddling for the shoulder and shouting at me.  Good shouts like wooooohooo!   I recognize the voices and they are shouting my name, actually praising me for makin the wave.   The crew of surfers I didnt recognize are my buds,  the local riders.........and they are cheering me on! 

This after the last two months of them ridiculing me about SUP..............asking me if I have a handicap sticker on windshield so I can park close to the beach cause I gotta carry this big ass board..............or making the "beep, beep"(truck reversing) sound when I sometimes back paddle in the line up.

I paddle back out to the line up after the ride (which was a hollow 3ft overhead beauty that raced all the way in) and the boyz are stoked for me.  Man.............what an entrance to the session!  First wave......first bomb......and pulling it off!

That setup the rest of the session.  I was getting so many waves I sat out sets in the channel everyone once in a while just to keep things fair.  I also called a bunch of sets early and told the boyz where the peak was berfore they could see it.  It was all about working together out there and everyone just feeling stoked no matter what wave vehicle you had. 

Now even my short boards are starting to gather dust on the big wave days..........oh well!