What do you use? Rail Tape, Paddle Protector, Nothing, or Something Else?

[beaglebuddy]

Sharsupper, what is that shrinkwrap stuff ? that is the problem area on my paddle.

[JC50]

10 mil pipe wrap tape to protect rails of boards, Plumbers Mastic tape around blade.

Together, the kit's bombproof, but once your technique is solid you can remove tape from rails and just rely on mastic tape around blade (cheap and easy to replace when worn out).

If you lend boards to friends, keep the pipe wrap tape (3M calls it Scotchrap 51 all-weather corrosion protection tape) on the boards, that way you don't worry about damage.  Seen same stuff used on demo-fleets too.

[sharksupper]

beaglebuddy,

I had an issue with the molding peeling up at the ends too... some paddles transition slowly to a flat surface, like the C4...  At first I used electrical tape, and that is pretty good, but eventually it would give way.  If you used a lot of tape and put it on good it would not doubt be a decent solution.  I happened to have some 1-1/2" or 2" dia (unshrunk) shrink wrap laying around... and my handles are only taped on so I was able to use this.  It is definitely the best way to go if you have it and don't have the handle permanently attached yet.  Otherwise, I would have just used epoxy and the electrical tape to hold it in place until it was cured.

[sharksupper]

I forgot to add, the shink tubing can be hard to find, I got mine here (USA):  http://www.solarcomposites.com/composites/carbon%20fiber%20sleeves.html#Shrink

[beaglebuddy]

Shrinkwrap looks like the way to do it, I was also considering painting on some plastisol, that's the stuff
they dip tool handles in, I think Home Depot should have it.
The problem with my Werner paddle is right where the shaft transitions to the paddle they have not finished
it and left some sharp edges right at the spot where the paddle may hit the board at the end of the stoke.
The door edge stuff works for the blade but will not cover this area.
Perhaps I should sand down this area first to remove the sharp edges ? Would this leave frayed edges of
the fiber cloth loose and visible ?

[sharksupper]

I haven't seen a Werner paddle up close, but sanding down sharp edges sounds like a good idea in general to save your board/self.  I'd just make sure it's not a part of the structural integrity of the paddle.  If it's just carbon/fiberglass/epoxy you won't have to worry about frayed edges much, but you can just brush it with a coat of epoxy afterward if you're worried.  I had to do that with my C4 paddle shaft when I dinged it, to prevent slivers.

The door molding can be flattened out, not easily, but it can be done for transition areas, then you have to either glue or tape it down, or both, in that area.  I epoxied it down and put the shrink wrap over it.  Some heavy duty electrical tape may have worked too.

Paddle makes should provide a solution for this, seems like everyone would benefit.

[beaglebuddy]

I have not had good luck with tape, it always wants to come off after a short while.
I will play around with some door edge guard to see if I can get it flat and glued down.
Do you know what diameter shrink wrap you used ?
Fortunately my paddle is adjustable so the handle come off to slide the shrink wrap over.
Yes, the handle people really should be addressing this issue, I have better things to do.

[TerryS]

I have had good luck with just a zip tie to hold the egde guard

[andygere]

To keep the ends of the Infinity clear paddle edge guard from separating from the paddle, I put a drip of super glue under each one before sticking the last inch to the paddle.  It works great, and it's invisible.

When installing this stuff, I found that it helped a lot to warm it up in the sun before installing, which made it much more pliable and easy to get a nice fit on the paddle.

[jdmotes]

I take mastic and measure off a piece large enough to go all the way around the perimeter of the blade and back up the shaft just a hair past the blade. I then cut this piece of mastic length-wise in half. As I start the application of the tape above the blade, I stretch it as I'm applying it along the edge to make it even narrower. I then use a hi-quality vinyl tape a few windings around the ends of the mastic just above the blade... This leaves a very clean and thin application around the blade than the normal width of the mastic - which is too wide (IMO)... The downside is the black hack marks but these wipe off easily with a little sand or a paper towel...  Later,    JD

 Here is a few pics to show results of above procedure...       Later,   JD

[wavehobbit]

I still like 3M 5200 painted on the edge.  All you do is tape it off and then brush it on and hang the paddle.  The 3M takes a few days to cure and will settle out nice and smooth.  It will last about a season.  I left one paddle without it and regretted it.  When you teaching someone or loaning to a friend and then you hear that high pitch sound of carbon against rail it makes you sick.  ugggg....