Author Topic: Some room to play  (Read 1740 times)

surfinJ

  • Teahupoo Status
  • ******
  • Posts: 1863
    • View Profile
Some room to play
« on: June 28, 2022, 12:56:04 PM »
Just turned 62 and I feel gifted to still be healthy and surfing. Summer season is upon us over here and to freshen things up I have gone back to single fins for the longboard.
This is the 7inch, smallest from my collection. Just the minimalist size to keep it loose in the small swells.
As I hit it early that morning, the 2 peaks were already filling up. Walking towards the less populated one I noticed an lesser but empty wave in between the two.

surfercook

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2216
  • Jersey Shore
    • View Profile
    • My YouTube
    • Email
Re: Some room to play
« Reply #1 on: June 28, 2022, 02:59:18 PM »
SurfinJ, avoids the crowds
And finds his way.
Nice clean waves
To play in all day!

You're surfin' well and a coupla years behind me. I too am stoked to still ride waves. Super nice and colorful single fin you have there!

I sooo want a longboard style sup. Been eying this beauty up.




« Last Edit: June 28, 2022, 03:01:02 PM by surfercook »
One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
9'11" PSH Hull Ripper-145 ltr    
9'3" PSH  Hull Ripper- 130ltr 
8'0" Corevac Assassin -127 ltr   
Paddles- Carbonerro PRO SERIES 85 & Riviera Camo at 70"

Night Wing

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2701
  • Piney Woods of Southeast Texas
    • View Profile
Re: Some room to play
« Reply #2 on: June 28, 2022, 05:14:47 PM »
@ surfinJ

Real nice video. I really enjoyed viewing it.

If you don't mind me asking, what is the make and model of the fin (since the look of it reminds me of a hatchet fin)?
Blue Planet Duke: 10'5" x 32" x 4.5" @ 190 Liters (2 Dukes)
Sup Sports Hammer: 8'11" x 31" x 4" @ 140 Liters
SUP Sports One World: 11'1" x 30" x 4.5" @ 173 Liters
CJ Nelson Parallax: 9'3" x 23 1/2" x 3 3/16" @ 78.8 Liters (prone surfing longboard; Thunderbolt Technologies build in Red construction)

Dusk Patrol

  • Teahupoo Status
  • ******
  • Posts: 1129
  • PNW
    • View Profile
Re: Some room to play
« Reply #3 on: June 28, 2022, 07:03:30 PM »
Nice! thanks for posting your session vids... they're an antidote for a day spent in the office.  8)
RS 14x26; JL Destroyer 9'8; BluePlanet 9'4; JL SF 8'6

supthecreek

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 7067
  • Walk directly at what you want
    • View Profile
Re: Some room to play
« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2022, 02:48:43 AM »
J-man living the dream on the French Coast!
Keep going hard my friend, enjoy your youth!
email
supthecreek@gmail.com

My YouTube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHRI23a8H21jASPdVCQUpog/videos

Bean

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 4199
    • View Profile
Re: Some room to play
« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2022, 07:30:32 AM »
SJ - those "empty" breaks are few and far between, good to enjoy when we can for sure.

SC - That Cannibal looks like it would be a lot of fun for chasing NJ summer surf.  Looks like there might have been a little Vincent van Gogh influence in the colors (I didn't even know he surfed).

surfinJ

  • Teahupoo Status
  • ******
  • Posts: 1863
    • View Profile
Re: Some room to play
« Reply #6 on: June 30, 2022, 12:09:17 AM »
Thanks for all the supportive comments. So happy to share my stoke.

You are right Bean, the spot filled up for sure as the day progressed. As the summer deepens it will get rarer but the visitors deserve some fun as well.

Thanks Creek, you are THE inspiration.

Thanks DuskPatrol, it is humbling to think of you at work taking time to view my vid. But stoked to hear it spread some grind relief.

Thanks NightWing. I have a series of cutaways, 7 8 & 9inch that I fin up my longboard with.  I picked them up in Santa Cruz CA and the are designed by an ex longboard champ? surfer named Wingnut. I love how the narrow base keeps them loose while the hatchet tip holds no matter how hard I lean into a turn.

And surfercook, thanks for the poem, very cool.  That board you showed has a fun shape. Back in the day I had in the daily board mix a 5-10 LocalMotion twin fin and a
10 GreekEliminator 1960s noserider. I definitely enjoy having a large volume difference between my short and long boards.



 


SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2022, SimplePortal