Author Topic: Gorilla glue diy pour foam  (Read 1217 times)

surfcowboy

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Re: Gorilla glue diy pour foam
« Reply #15 on: January 20, 2022, 07:53:25 PM »
Dremel tool, opened up paper clip = tiny batch mixer.

Vancouver_foiler

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Re: Gorilla glue diy pour foam
« Reply #16 on: January 20, 2022, 09:15:25 PM »
PVC is a closed-cell foam, standard EPS is not, XPS is somewhere in between. Two-part pour foam is a closed-cell and the better versions have strength somewhere between XPS and PVC. Gorilla glue that's been whipped with water is stronger than two-part foam and sticks better. Two-part foam eventually breaks down with continued pressure and eventually loses its water resistance even before it gets weak. I've used gallons of two-part to make body-formed seats for race cars. Mix well, pour into plastic bags, tape it to the seat base, and sit down. Don't pour in too much or you'll have it in your hair (not that I'd know).

I have an old hand mixer with a modified single beater for mixing epoxies, foams, and gorilla glue. I clean the beater by holding it in an empty bucket and switching it to high, then wipe off the tiny residual mess with a rag. Power mixing changes the entire game. Hand-mixed gorilla glue has voids with dense areas of poorly cured glue. Power mixed it's as consistent as commercial PVC. I haven't tried cornmeal though I've tried micro balloons to try to get a lighter filler. That works though it's hard to get enough in the mix to make it worth the effort when the glue is doing its best to turn to foam before you can finish.

Bill-thanks for the summary there bud. Good to hear this stuff based on experience.

Actually thanks everyone for this super informative subject.

Dontsink

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Re: Gorilla glue diy pour foam
« Reply #17 on: January 20, 2022, 10:46:22 PM »
Dremel tool, opened up paper clip = tiny batch mixer.

Perfect for small jobs ,thx.

Bean

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Re: Gorilla glue diy pour foam
« Reply #18 on: January 21, 2022, 10:10:07 AM »
Here is a small rail ding on a King's that was made much worse by attempting the repair with polyester resin.  As you can see, the polyester resin created an ugly cavity. 

Ordinarily I would cut the old glass out completely and replace the foam with EPS.  But, in this case, to avoid the hassle of dealing with the Kevlar vector-net, I simply filled the void with GG and allowed it to expand leaving a small escape slit in the tape.  The expanding GG actually pushed the surrounding glass back to it's original shape (more or less).  A little epoxy and some 6oz glass and Bob's your uncle... 

 


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