Ocean Rodeo Glide-Allula

[VB_Foil]

Has anyone replaced a bladder on a Glide?  My 7M bladder popped and I have a warranty replacement showing up tomorrow.  Not sure if I should pull replacements through the inflate hole or from wingtip all the way around to other wingtip. 

Popped on 3/4 inflate....didn't shake it down and make sure there wasn't a stuck spot.  It must have been slightly damp on stow and got stuck.  Going to be extremely careful now.  I think this is more of an issue with Aluula as the fabric is so smooth compared to Dacron or Hookipa. 

[juandesooka]

I replaced my 6m bladder. Done dozens of kite bladder replacements, but this was a lot tougher ... no zipper access hole to allow fine tuning.

I tried many variations, but had trouble with the bladder being twisted and also the valve velcro not seated right (which can cause the velcro to unseat and the bladder to twist in the tube, once under pressure).  Talking to OR folks, got a few tips. But I did it so many times in a row I am having trouble remembering which way eventually worked...so will edit if I recall differently. After trying 10 times, it was "super easy once you know how".   

PS after all that, just found this OR video, DOH
Maybe just follow that    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NP3iwV3bKF8

Tips:
-- generous application of talc or baby powder and a dry bladder helps it move in the tube
-- lay it out flat, draw a jiffy line on the inflate valve and the LE hole, so you know it is lined up properly
-- tape a piece of cardboard to bladder tip, to help ensure it doesn't twist as you pull
-- fold bladder from centre to end, pile the folds on top in 2' increments, taking care that it is flat and not twisted, so it'll pull through clean [this video, 2:20..."accordion fold" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-BvHWCbUsc ... or see the OR video above for alternative method]
-- pull bladder through inflate hole, towards the LE tips.
-- pull velcro ring through hole...tight fit. 
-- seat the velcro, lining up your jiffy lines.
-- use something thin but not sharp to seat the valve edge over LE lip.
-- fold bladder ends, then fold the LE inside material, seat the velcro
-- half inflate, look for twists (deep depression in LE), if twisted try to pull it out through LE end just enough to fix the twist OR if not, start again for that side. 
-- half inflate, try to massage out kinks or folds in materials.  I found it helped to open up LE tip, then pull the LE tip (with velcro seated), it pulls out most of the kinks. I think I did this with bladder 10% inflated...but can't remember for sure
-- inflate 3/4, check again for kinks or folds.
-- inflate to 100%, but just before, say a little prayer to whatever gods or powers-that-be you believe in, for hopes and good fortune

[Dwight (DW)]

I also added a sharpe mark on the inflation nozzle flange indicating orientation. I used a silver sharpe. Then I knew for sure, valve was right when sticking velcro and nothing is twisted.

[VB_Foil]

Thanks for the replies guys. Looks like I better put the kids to bed, clear the living room of furniture and have the fridge loaded with cold ones…and roll up my sleeves. 

[VB_Foil]

Update: new bladder went in easy-peazy using the solo technique outlined in the above video. Who needs a zipper?? 

Also just had a stellar session on the 5M. Man I love that wing.

[Vancouver_foiler]

Update: new bladder went in easy-peazy using the solo technique outlined in the above video. Who needs a zipper?? 

Also just had a stellar session on the 5M. Man I love that wing.

Agreed. The 5m in particular is just Dandy.

[VB_Foil]

5M vs. 7M

So I rode the same spot two days in a row in very similar conditions; 5m first, then the 7M (same foil - 925). It was blowing an average of around 10-12mph with a few higher gusts into the 15-16 range and a few holes.  I was running laps of an upwind to downwind race course for fun. It was interesting to compare the speeds and performance stats on my Waterspeed app (new web app has cool features btw):

Avg. top 5 best 10s runs:
5M 16.7knts
7M 16.4 knts

Best alpha speed 1 NM:
5M 12 knts
7M 11.9 knts

Best Alpha speed 250M:
5M 13.7 knts
7M 12.5 knts

Course was around 3-4 tacks upwind and 2 on the way back down. The 7M definitely had an edge going downwind. I was basically able to go almost straight downwind with some light foil pumping followed by a short speed burst tack to the finish.

My buddy on his 5M AFS wing wasn’t able to complete the course and I ran 6 laps.  7M is definitely a nice wing in the quiver for the racers.

All in all it’s two different feels between the two. The 5M is much more nimble and fun to throw around in unplanned ways during transitions. 7M requires a bit more forethought during transitions but is awesome to really crank hard upwind heeled over.  Heelside tack make rate was lower with the 7M.

Felt out a friends 8M CWC Fone on the beach and it felt pretty awesome!

[CleanLeft]

Gold Paint wearing away (problem).---- I have a quiver of these wonderful wings. On my 4m, the paint is quite worn away near/under the handles, revealing the white fabric underneath (about 8square inches worth under each handle).  I'd like to reapply a coat, of something, to protect the fabric and last a bit longer.  Has anyone done this?

[StellaBlu]

I’d try a warranty claim. I had the same issue and they replaced the wing. I think this was more prevalent in an early batch.

[deja vu]

Big upgrade to the Ocean Rodeo:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuA3rKC5duc

[Hdip]

Big upgrade to the Ocean Rodeo: The Price

I fixed it for you

[burchas]

Big upgrade to the Ocean Rodeo: The Price

I fixed it for you

You are probably right. Given how much I spent on bagged-out wings this past year, the price seems compelling

[deja vu]

North is incorporating their N-weave and X-ply into their canopy material along with the N-weave struts with carbon handles -- this might be the most cost effective alternative to the new OR.   Where I am Duotone is getting very pricey as well -- especially the D-lab.

https://northkb.com/products/mode-pro-wing

[Wingfoil2001]

I guess the argument for paying the price of these new materials is that a wing may last a few seasons.
Yes, it may last longer so you could almost argue it’s worth it. But, imagine using a wing that is 3 seasons old today, means your using a V1 Wasp, or maybe a Slingshot with an inflatable trailing edge (what were they thinking?), but one thing is for sure it has soft handles.
Who know where the designs will be in 3 years, I doubt anyone with that kind of disposable coin will be willing to ride an old design.

[burchas]

I guess the argument for paying the price of these new materials is that a wing may last a few seasons.
Yes, it may last longer so you could almost argue it’s worth it. But, imagine using a wing that is 3 seasons old today, means your using a V1 Wasp, or maybe a Slingshot with an inflatable trailing edge (what were they thinking?), but one thing is for sure it has soft handles.
Who know where the designs will be in 3 years, I doubt anyone with that kind of disposable coin will be willing to ride an old design.

Your point is valid when it comes to many wings on the market. Also makes perfect sense for racing and
competition and its development over the past couple of years.

That said, if my F-one Strike V1 was built with the same materials as the AA wing and kept the performance
over the years I would happily keep using it. I'm pretty sure the Strike V1 would have been a much better
wing if the designers had access to the current Aluula high-end materials. Perfect for my use case as I do not
race nor compete and I couldn't care less about tricks.