April fool

[surfinJ]

This is the morning after last vid with the swell down to fun size.  Keeping to the crowd avoidance theme I went past the already filling nice left, past the last beach access and found an empty bank.
Then, with a life of water experience I took the kook path to the wave.  Or put another way, lazily ignore the current and go a bit to deep on the first set that comes.  And after the wave runs away from me, start a stubborn fight in the foamy interior of the break on my 120l board.  An hour long ugly struggle.
Finally I came all the way around the back to snag a few.  Hope you like it.

[tarquin]

Nice vid.
What do you use to edit. Just bought a gopro and trying to make a short vid.
I was trying on my phone but I think I need to do it on a computer.

[supthecreek]

Copyright infringement!!!
J, you stole the title from my last video! 

It seems like there were a lots of Fools around that day! 
Except I still haven't been able to sleep in a bed since my Foolishness. 

I am glad that you included all the paddle out footage.... too many videos just show the best rides, not all the moving parts of a session.

Your breaks look really nice.
Big playing field, but some softer corners to use on a bigger swell.
Tough to move around a big arena on a small board, so I am impressed that you chose a short one.

You need a Kook Hat Cam!!!!

[surfercook]

SurfinJ heads out to play,
But the waves have
Something else to say!
He paddles out to the green world,
Searching for that elusive curl.
After several attempts to make it out,
The ocean loses the final bout!

I think that's the first poem I ever wrote.   

Nice swell and water color. That Rawson is looking good under foot too. (Please try a paddle mount, the pov is super cool but flipping the paddle around for the selfie stick ain't easy)!

[justsomeguy]

That's a sweet looking wave J ... all things considered i.e. tide, wind & swell all cooperating to provide clean conditions, plus sunshine! ... I think sometimes mother nature just likes to make us work a little harder for it, just to be sure we remember she holds the key to the playground.

[surfinJ]

Thanks Tarquin. I was looking at the vids you posted, it must be a blast out there.
I use iMovie on a MacBook. Very easy program for simple edits. Not the fancy stuff.

Sorry Rick but I was really being that, the fool. But guilty as charged .
The small board was brought for the steep faces, easier drops.
For the floundering foamy field battle, not so smart.
Good luck with your recovery.

Hey Cook, thanks. You are a musician so you obviously got the poet thing going.
I have tried unsuccessfully to use the paddle cam. For all the work very little footage. I stick the paddle in the water too much.

And justsomeguy you are so right.  I was thinking a lot of myself as I approached this empty sandbar. Well the natural forces quickly adjusted my attitude. Thanks.