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Author Topic: Not all peaches and cream  (Read 849 times)

surfinJ

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Not all peaches and cream
« on: April 04, 2021, 06:25:02 AM »
So the swell was at that certain size that on this straight sand coastline translates to a handful of spots becoming packed.  After an injury timeout my patience/capacity to deal with the crowd is way down. So branching out away from the crowd is in order.

The paddle out consisted of looking for a crack in the foam wall. No channels. Wait just before the dump zone, about waist to chest deep and when it looked possible to make the prone sprint paddle the 30-40 feet necessary to clear the zone.  Multiple smash backs and moving further up the beach had me beat and about to give up when just like that some calm spot let me pass.

Getting back in started with a prayer while waiting just outside the shore pound. Only about 15í from the sand.  The idea being wait for a long set and paddle in on the back of the last wave.
Well after the wait I went and got smacked anyway by a random in between wave.

All in all I prefer the natural hassles. 




surfercook

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Re: Not all peaches and cream
« Reply #1 on: April 04, 2021, 07:24:54 AM »
Way to overcome challenging conditions and get back in the water riding. SUP is a double edged sword when the waves are big, rough, closing out, and unorganized. The paddle outs can be BRUTAL! Stoked you got some half decent rides.
What injury did you sustain and overcome?
We have to wear wetsuit glovies from Nov to around May here in New Jersey. No wetsuit glovies for you in April?
A beach pov would be amazing at your break. Ever consider getting a SOLOSHOT?
One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
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supthecreek

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Re: Not all peaches and cream
« Reply #2 on: April 04, 2021, 09:11:20 AM »
Thanks J... it shows how much goes into some OH sessions!
Lots of room for difficulty on a big playing field, especially if you are on a performance board.
Sometimes you are in sync, sometimes not.... but it is always rewarding spiritually.
The fact is, you went out and got some.... Yewwwwwww!

The usual conundrum is: high tide may soften the outside, but the shorebreak gets brutal.
Sometimes I simply stay out until the tide drops enough to create enough steady whitewater to mitigate the deadly shore pound.

ha ha... a few hurricane swells last fall, I asked the same question:
"You're 72.... when do you stop doing this crazy shit?"   :o :o   
the answer is always "not yet"  ;D
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PonoBill

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Re: Not all peaches and cream
« Reply #3 on: April 04, 2021, 10:13:30 AM »
Very cool, sounds a lot like my winter in San Diego. I've never had so many sessions where I thought I was just not going to be able to get out. It's a brutal thing to contemplate utterly failing to be able to do a sport you think you more or less mastered long ago. When you do manage to get out you certainly aren't going to milk the wave and spend another half hour trying to get out again. I'm happy to see you prevailed. I had some days where I just had to accept being denied.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

surfinJ

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Re: Not all peaches and cream
« Reply #4 on: April 04, 2021, 01:48:13 PM »
Thanks a lot PonoBill. You are right the changes are hard to accept. But like The Creek states, we just keep going.  And up until that magic pause that let me past, I really started to feel it was a lost cause.  Although I made it this day you never know.  And the wife asks how was the surf.  Me, well paddled and got drilled for an hour, never made it out.  She, you guys are nuts 8)


And Rick this stretch of beach is funny. It was actually dead low when I went out. Mid tide when I exited.  The outside wave doesnít connect to the beach. It runs off the outside sandbar into a deep channel parallel to the beach. On the high tide the outside stops completely unless huge.
I would have preferred a mid to low tide surf. The exit is less hairy.
On my longboard I could have picked off double the waves.  But I probably could not have managed successfully the larger board in the shorebreak.
Like you say, we donít stop. Great words.

Thanks for that surfercook.  The injury was a week working with a one handed trimming chainsaw above the head. Reawakened the blown shoulder tendons that brought originally to SUP. Total down time was 2 weeks. At 61yo that took an immediate toll on my balance and condition. The combination of feeling weak and seeing the spots crowded had me looking for an outlet.
I realize the the POV leave something to be desired. And you and the Creek make some beautiful vids with it.  Maybe some time.
As far as the gloves go things are warming up fast here. Water is about 55 now. Some of the guys still have gloves.  The air temps are 60ís so on the standup I donít need them anymore.

TallDude

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Re: Not all peaches and cream
« Reply #5 on: April 04, 2021, 09:13:57 PM »
I'm finally getting over an ACL injury that just kept getting reaggravated by just walking. Riding my bike has helped strengthen it. I surfed this morning for the first time in almost two months. Knee was fine. We have a SSW combi-swell building. The combi-swells are very close in angle, but one angle stands up then just mushes. The other angle stands up about the same height and breaks quick. You never quite know which is which because they're coming from almost the same direction? It was waist to shoulder high, sunny and glassy. Similar to what you have there. Air was about 75 deg, water low 60's. I ended up catching a handful of really good waves. Where I surfed there is a little channel to paddle back out. Never got my hair wet:)   
It's not overhead to me!
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surfinJ

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Re: Not all peaches and cream
« Reply #6 on: April 04, 2021, 11:53:20 PM »
Old injuries that lurk are terrible. Have to keep them at bay.

And I need a spot like yours TallDude.

 


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