Author Topic: Second January Session  (Read 1748 times)

surfercook

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Second January Session
« on: January 28, 2021, 09:50:53 PM »
Been a slow month. At 62 it's glad to be "Still Alive and Well"! Lucked into some gems and had some company from a coupla regs at the local. Tackled the beach break w/the 9'11". Haven't hit the groin in months. Been hiking the beach alot to keep at it so things went well in the surf.
Hope all is well out there!  8)
New Jersey Winter Surf
https://app.soloshot.com/video/044ea12c-8852-4580-8f25-24f5e44fa482

One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
9'11" PSH Hull Ripper-145 ltr    
9'3" PSH  Hull Ripper- 130ltr 
8'0" Corevac Assassin -127 ltr   
Paddles- Carbonerro PRO SERIES 85 & Riviera Camo at 70"

TallDude

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Re: Second January Session
« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2021, 12:23:12 AM »
Burrr..Cookie. You're still rock'n it. I took a board to the ribs a few weeks ago and it hurts to paddle, so nada for me. We've had rain and rain and dirty water lately anyways, so not missing much. Keep it up dude.
It's not overhead to me!
8'8" L-41 ST and a whole pile of boards I rarely use.

surfinJ

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Re: Second January Session
« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2021, 12:33:26 AM »
Yes, to be still out there at our age is a win. 

And those waves are some winners. What beautiful peelers.

PonoBill

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Re: Second January Session
« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2021, 06:25:14 AM »
Yes, to be still out there at our age is a win. 

And those waves are some winners. What beautiful peelers.
It gets easier when you pass 70. Beautiful waves, you're making me nuts. I've been out of the water for the last week, doing Flourouracil on some pre-cancer face stuff. I look like someone tossed a cup of hot coffee in my face.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

surfercook

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Re: Second January Session
« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2021, 07:26:11 AM »
Burrr..Cookie. I took a board to the ribs a few weeks ago and it hurts to paddle, so nada for me.
lol...no lie! Winter's full force is here this weekend. Wind Northwest 15-45 mph with higher gusts, today’s high 28 w/wind chills from 7 to 14 degrees. Wasn't too bad a coupla days ago when I surfed though. Was like 42F Air and 45F water. Guess by Southern CA standards that's pretty frigid though. Board to the ribs?! TallDude is down...heal up quick, Matt.

Yes, to be still out there at our age is a win. And those waves are some winners. What beautiful peelers.
No lie on both comments. Thanx, J.

It gets easier when you pass 70. Beautiful waves, you're making me nuts. I've been out of the water for the last week, doing Flourouracil on some pre-cancer face stuff. I look like someone tossed a cup of hot coffee in my face.

How so does it get easier after 70 and guessing I'm driving you nuts cuz your benched? Hope your pre-cancer battle is victorious. I'd like to see a picture of your "Coffee Face"!  :P
 
  Close surfing buddy of mine just passed away after an almost two yr battle with colon cancer. Watching him deteriorate wasn't easy., especially considering we were the same age by a few months. Organized a paddle out for him scheduled for 2/6. About 40 of us are paddling out dead of winter to honor him. He was an amazing dude and I was lucky he tolerated my friendship all these years. "Jack Would Go"! He was hardcore and surfed many winters with me. That 2nd shot of him is from winter 2016. Full rubber.
« Last Edit: January 29, 2021, 07:42:42 AM by surfercook »
One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
9'11" PSH Hull Ripper-145 ltr    
9'3" PSH  Hull Ripper- 130ltr 
8'0" Corevac Assassin -127 ltr   
Paddles- Carbonerro PRO SERIES 85 & Riviera Camo at 70"

surfercook

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Re: Second January Session
« Reply #5 on: January 29, 2021, 09:20:19 AM »
No surfing today, 1/29!

One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
9'11" PSH Hull Ripper-145 ltr    
9'3" PSH  Hull Ripper- 130ltr 
8'0" Corevac Assassin -127 ltr   
Paddles- Carbonerro PRO SERIES 85 & Riviera Camo at 70"

supthecreek

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Re: Second January Session
« Reply #6 on: January 29, 2021, 09:52:02 AM »
Good talking with you Marc!
Funny that I was watching your video when you called  :)
Those wave look pretty sweet to me, you definitely have some great breaks near you.... but I'm ok without a wetsuit for this winter.

Hopefully see you in Florida!
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Beasho

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Re: Second January Session
« Reply #7 on: January 29, 2021, 10:17:02 AM »
No surfing today, 1/29!

OMG!  I know that look from taking trips to the beach in the middle of winter.  Like the dark side of the moon vs. summer time on the Jersey shore.

PonoBill

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Re: Second January Session
« Reply #8 on: January 29, 2021, 03:58:12 PM »
I was sort of joking but actually, some of the things that caused me big problems in my 60's went away as I got older. I thought I was going to need new hips, and they aren't great, but stretching helped. I used to have a lot of back problems, but I don't now. Mostly it's just a matter of not stopping--keep going.

As for the face, this looks more like someone clocked me in the eye.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

TallDude

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Re: Second January Session
« Reply #9 on: January 29, 2021, 07:00:51 PM »
I've got two tubes of Flourouracil sitting in my drawer. I've got a spot on my shoulder that needs some attention. This would be a good time to start burning away at. My wife is a med-surg / oncology nurse and she said they noticed that people who had Chemotherapy ended up with clear skin after. They would develop red spots where there was some issues. So they decided to put it in a cream and apply it topically for Basel cell carcinoma. You apply it all over an area of skin (like your arms or face) and after a few days, only the areas with Basel cell will start turning red. Then you just apply it to the red areas until they turn into a burning sore:) Then you stop. All done.   

No fun Pono...
It's not overhead to me!
8'8" L-41 ST and a whole pile of boards I rarely use.

surfercook

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Re: Second January Session
« Reply #10 on: January 30, 2021, 07:27:41 AM »
Like the dark side of the moon
lol..Probably warmer up there!

As for the face

You look great, Pono! Thanx for the quality selfie!

Messing around with some Strawberry Fields...I actually went to the John Lennon vigil in Central Park on Dec. 14, 1980.


https://www.instagram.com/p/CKqA2dCDLLa/
« Last Edit: January 30, 2021, 07:30:48 AM by surfercook »
One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
9'11" PSH Hull Ripper-145 ltr    
9'3" PSH  Hull Ripper- 130ltr 
8'0" Corevac Assassin -127 ltr   
Paddles- Carbonerro PRO SERIES 85 & Riviera Camo at 70"

FRP

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Re: Second January Session
« Reply #11 on: January 30, 2021, 09:41:23 AM »
Thanks for the videos Mark

Your surfing is amazing and on the one right you were starting to get covered up.

I am having video editing issues with my Soloshot (the iMovie on my Mac Book seems to be gone and I can't seem to reload it). You are using the Soloshot app for editing. I may try that. Any issues using that app to do you editing?

Cheers

Bob
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surfercook

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Re: Second January Session
« Reply #12 on: January 30, 2021, 06:55:12 PM »
Your surfing is amazing.
LOL..thanx.  ;D 

I am having video editing issues with my Soloshot (the iMovie on my Mac Book seems to be gone and I can't seem to reload it). You are using the Soloshot app for editing. I may try that. Any issues using that app to do you editing?
SSedit is a really stable editor on PC/Windows10. Not sure about Mac though. It's been working for me since the first beta testing.

Bonus groundswell today. I got to demo an 8'8" Corevac Blade my buddy has. FCS2 quads on it. Sweet ride. A lot looser than my 9'3" Hull Ripper.

« Last Edit: January 30, 2021, 06:59:12 PM by surfercook »
One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
9'11" PSH Hull Ripper-145 ltr    
9'3" PSH  Hull Ripper- 130ltr 
8'0" Corevac Assassin -127 ltr   
Paddles- Carbonerro PRO SERIES 85 & Riviera Camo at 70"

 


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