Author Topic: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger  (Read 2927 times)

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #15 on: December 20, 2020, 07:24:51 PM »
I've taken your advice to heart and kept every ounce of my weight on my front foot and the board on the water until I no longer was considering crapping my shorts.

The heavy front foot is KEY!  I was doing that today in 8 to 12 foot faces, enough that I felt like I was cheating.  As in 'I am not even foiling I am just riding a 7 foot SUP on a 10 foot wave.'  But then I would fly and go for 300 yards.  My longest was 600 yards.  One of the better foil waves I have ever caught.  Just groovy. 

In Hawaii I took off on a wave and was cutting backside (Goofy foot going right) and I could feel the rail of my board fully engaged with the wall of the wave.  I thought "Oh my god I am actually using the rail of this board and I have all this foil 2 feet below that about to go Berserk."  I stayed heavy front foot and the whole rig remained down.  Weight forward of the center of lift and the FOIL STAYS DOWN.

There was another wave in Hawaii that I was racing down the line and the nose was down and sticking.  It was going too slow.  I could sense the wave overtaking me and I was in a terrifying situation. 

1) Stay down and get run over AND Flipped with the foil or

2) Fly, Fly, Fly and race down the line line and try to survive.  But I didn't want to fly, things were already too dicey and fast, just not fast enough.   

I eventually flew and didn't breach or get crushed.  But - Plenty of soil in the shorts. 
« Last Edit: December 20, 2020, 07:47:41 PM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #16 on: December 20, 2020, 08:06:48 PM »
Some of today's action.  Ruby had been suggesting things over the past 2 weeks were too big and cold for her liking.

Today was a sunny, clean 8 to 12 feet.  There were a few 'easy peasy' takeoffs but most were challenging.  Here Ruby had to negotiate a mogul on the drop.  Sometimes when you pearl you can push through but you can end up with a bit of acid reflux in the back of your throat. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viuVXHmrWV0

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #17 on: December 21, 2020, 08:45:33 AM »
Today was a sunny, clean 8 to 12 feet.  There were a few 'easy peasy' takeoffs but most were challenging. . . . . Sometimes when you pearl you can push through but you can end up with a bit of acid reflux in the back of your throat. 

Here is an example of Pearling and Making it through.  This wave started out with a touch of mellow.  Then the nose rose up and I jammed it down.  In the 2nd shot you see the board pearling, water over the top.  But with a LONG NOSE the board (7' 4") stayed on the surface. 

The forward footstrap prevents pitching over the front of the board.  I rode this wave 230 yards.   

There is no way to pull this off with a shorter board (e.g. sub 6' 6") and without straps in waves that are well overhead.

There I said it  ;D  But feel free to prove me wrong.

Gear:  I was using the GoFoil NL190.  I decided NOT to go with the NL130 because the waves were not big enough and I wanted to glide a bit more.  Video to follow. 
« Last Edit: December 21, 2020, 08:51:24 AM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #18 on: December 30, 2020, 10:48:48 AM »
This day was #TooBigToFoil so I took out the 10'6" SUP to make sure I still had the chops.

Here was an example of a wave.  It was consistently 2X overhead, chop factor of 9/10 and the sets were 15 - 17 feet.  I could barely stand up and the conditions had me rattled.

Here I was getting hustled by a guy on a 9' SUP.  No way he could keep up with or paddle as fast as my 10' 6" Paddle Surf Hawaii.  As I said when it's #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger.  This applies to SUP's as well.  Tackling 15+ foot waves on a 9' SUP is like taking out a 6' prone board.  Not advised for anyone with sub-pipeline skill sets.

Buoys were 9ft @ 17 seconds with significant wind hangover from the night before. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrL4eITskqM
« Last Edit: December 30, 2020, 10:52:37 AM by Beasho »

bigmtn

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #19 on: December 30, 2020, 11:02:51 PM »
Should have used the foil. Crumbly take off, perfect for the foil. Just don't sit so far outside.

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #20 on: January 07, 2021, 11:24:14 AM »
Should have used the foil. Crumbly take off, perfect for the foil. Just don't sit so far outside.

I love the feedback.  I was actually scared on this day.  My heart was racing and I was having 'semi' panic attacks about how to get in. 

I like to think that I don't scare easily.  Not Mavericks level scary but at Mavericks you can just paddle to the side and get in with dry hair EVERY TIME.  This was just a constant pressure and threat.


Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #21 on: January 07, 2021, 11:27:12 AM »
Back to Foiling.  This was the prettiest, and among the biggest waves, I have ever caught on a Foil.

Is anybody out there?  Is anybody doing this in the world?

Nothing small breaks in this spot.  15-17 foot takeoff that turned into a screaming 12 footer over Blackhand Reef.  500 yard ride.     

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDBXWa3_nK8

bigmtn

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #22 on: January 08, 2021, 12:58:28 PM »

Califoilia (formerly - SanoSlatchSup)

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #23 on: January 08, 2021, 01:36:27 PM »
Oh crap! That's one time I wouldn't object to a guy not wearing a leash. That guillotine above him looks nasty, and I can't imagine going through that upcoming spin cycle being attached to it.  :o

EDIT: Oops, dumb me, didn't realize it was an IG video I could click on. But still stand by the above, and just glad to see that it appears he came out no worse for the wear after a couple of those tumbles.

Side note: Just had a buddy of mine show me the still ugly remnants of the wound his NL tip put into his thigh from a couple weeks ago in a way less dramatic wave at SanO. No arguing they work well, but geez, these wings are dangerous enough w/o adding "can opener" tips to them. :'(
« Last Edit: January 08, 2021, 01:43:39 PM by Califoilia (formerly - SanoSlatchSup) »
Me: 6'1"/185...5'7" Kings Foil Board...6'0" Kings Foil Board...9'6" Bob Pearson "Laird Noserider"...9'6" Costa Azul Wide Body...14' Lahui Kai "Manta"...8'0" WaveStorm for when proning urges still hit, and 7'3" Chuck Glynn foil board backup.

SUPJorge

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #24 on: January 08, 2021, 01:48:32 PM »
Back to Foiling.  This was the prettiest, and among the biggest waves, I have ever caught on a Foil.

Beasho, That was spectacular.
14' SIC Bullet V2 - 9'1" Naish Hokua X32 LE

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #25 on: January 09, 2021, 09:50:38 AM »
https://www.instagram.com/p/CJxXq6Ypm37/

I have a brother!!!!!!!   This is great.

You can see on takeoff he is flying as he makes the drop.  The benefit with a longer SUP is that you can fly nose down on the water.  Being on foil requires much more finesse.  With a short board at speed if the nose touches you will pearl 95% of the time. That's also why he was on a 40" mast. 

 


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