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Author Topic: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger  (Read 2882 times)

Beasho

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#TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« on: December 12, 2020, 07:02:26 AM »
I took my first trip to the North Shore of Oahu.  I called Sam Pa’e and let him know I was coming.  I was bringing my foil board.  The forecast was for big.  He said “It’s too big to foil Sunset.”  But all I brought was my foil.  So . . . I foiled.
#TooBigToFoil is dedicated to those who are on the verge and wanting to go bigger on the foil.  You have to find the right spot, with a softer punch into the ride and some deep water to glide into.  Then again in this Hawaiian example there weren’t too many examples other than Phantoms.

The key is to go bigger.  While everyone is trying to go shorter with their boards.  I have been retrograding and using my first generation hybrid SUP’s to paddle into some of the biggest foil waves ridden. 

My current favorite, which has had the Tuttle box replaced 3 times is a 7’ 4” L41 Bat-Tail.  You will want a front footstrap (at a minimum).  Here is some motivation. 


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jc4xXjsN5Pg

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #1 on: December 12, 2020, 07:02:49 AM »
The key is to stay FRONT FOOT DOWN.

When / IF the takeoff is too critical and steep then do NOT bring the nose of the board off the water.  Fly nose down.

This is where a bigger board has an advantage because it will not pearl.  Stay nose down until you can outrun the energy and find a more friendly shoulder to scream on.

Although on one wave I was flying nose down-the-line.  I took off and actually railed the board against the face of the wave.  In my head I was thinking 'This is crazy because I am riding this wave like a short board but I have this darn wing underneath about to be released like a bull from its cage.'  I stayed nose down but the board was sticky and too slow.  Things were walling up and I was going to get runover.  I didn't want to fly but had no choice, either go slow and get mowed down or fly and take my chances and make the wave.  I flew and lived to fly another day but that was not a pleasant set of choices. 

In the 2nd photo you can see the wave is over my head, as in breaking the horizon.  If I am crouching maybe its 5 ft above the deck of the board.  I am on a 29" mast on 5" thick board and trying NOT to ride in the trough.  All told ~ 8 feet from the camera to the foil.  But the GoPro does make things look extremely approachable and flat. 
« Last Edit: December 12, 2020, 07:29:35 AM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #2 on: December 12, 2020, 07:03:56 AM »
And to plan your escape.  In Hawaii everyone was asking about my waist leash, and confirming that they would want nothing to do with the board in the whitewater.   This is true.  I have a chicken loop that allows quick access to release my leash. 

But typically the board is pulled well away from you during a whitewater beating.  When there is wind things change and I recommend keeping your head down.  In this case if I had released my board I think it would have blown to the Kauai or maybe the pile of plastic trash off Japan.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JRpsy1iMLQ&t=44s 
« Last Edit: December 12, 2020, 07:12:55 AM by Beasho »

Tom

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2020, 04:16:24 PM »
Beasho, I always look forward to winter time because that's when you post interesting and insightful posts about getting creamed.

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2020, 06:57:50 PM »
Conditions in Hawaii were good enough that I wondered if I should be foiling.  But as our host said "No matter how good you are you're not going to impress anyone here."  Can I rip a bottom turn on a SUP - Yes!  But no one was foiling in the bigger outside waves under their own power. 

Conditions looked like this.  With size like #2:
« Last Edit: December 12, 2020, 06:59:42 PM by Beasho »

supfoo

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #5 on: December 12, 2020, 07:27:36 PM »
Dang Beasho, that’s some scary surf to get caught in, maybe a helmet next time!
Many props for being out there!

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #6 on: December 12, 2020, 07:35:43 PM »
Successful flights were fun.  And slightly entertaining.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXmhfq0nkOY

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #7 on: December 12, 2020, 07:46:55 PM »
But people seem to enjoy the crashes. 

Back in California the buoys continued to deliver.  This wave started at 10 - 12 feet.  One of the local Kayakers had a GoPro Hero 9.  It allows for filming after the fact, meaning you can film everything and when you push the button it backs up 30 seconds and preserves the footage.  I don't often have other people filming but caught this ride.  I was 100+ yards into the flight coming up on the second reef reform.  The wave doubled up and sent me into a full speed faceplant.  I failed to keep the nose down on the second punt.

I normally keep an Cutie orange in my wetsuit.  A form of natural goo to re-engergize after ~ 7 waves.  I crashed so hard on this wave I lost the orange out of my wetsuit and got a blackeye from my face hitting the water. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLYj_DbG7ho

« Last Edit: December 12, 2020, 07:58:31 PM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #8 on: December 12, 2020, 08:04:53 PM »
Here I was filming on the foil hoping my daughter would go left.  But I just took the wave in the teeth.

You can see me protecting my head at the last instant from any flying boards or foils.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0MShfPjHzk

Phils

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #9 on: December 13, 2020, 12:51:31 AM »
Pretty impressive stuff.  Thanks for posting.

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #10 on: December 16, 2020, 03:02:52 PM »
This is one of the things that got me going on the #TooBigToFoil.

Chris Bertish famous for winning the Mavericks competition and then paddling across the Atlantic on SUP posts a picture of himself foiling on a big wave.  Then says you can't paddle in to anything over 8 feet.  Chris Bertish know for saying Nothing is Im-Possible.  He eventually re-cants. 

One day last spring I was coming in at Mavericks having foiled in some outer stuff 10 - 14 feet and Chris was walking out with his prone foil board under his arm.  I said "There is some great stuff on the outside that is breaking 10+ feet. . . ."  He points to his gear, a 5 foot board, and says "I am using this." 

Exactly!  If you want to catch big waves on a foil you have to go BIGGER!
« Last Edit: December 16, 2020, 03:08:05 PM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #11 on: December 16, 2020, 03:04:24 PM »
Back to crashes.  This day was 11 feet @ 14 seconds.  I paddled out to a clean Mavericks that was settling down for the evening. 

There is a guy watching in the channel.  He knew I was on a foil and I was going to put on a show.  In my head I was thinking I was going to CRUSH this.
 
Then I got Blitzed!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiyRn-AXqkI
« Last Edit: December 16, 2020, 03:06:03 PM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #12 on: December 20, 2020, 09:19:10 AM »
Was out foiling for my birthday.  No one was out because it was TooBigToFoil.

I caught some SPICY Meatballs 50 yards south of Mushroom Rock.  Anyone who has been out there knows its deep water, especially on a higher tide.  The GoPro 360 is great at getting all the perspectives.  A 50 yard vertical wall down the line to Mushroom Rock and whitewater over my right shoulder.
« Last Edit: December 20, 2020, 09:21:02 AM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #13 on: December 20, 2020, 09:22:04 AM »
I figured it was so good I had to take 1 video.  Looked like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObO3slI7LXA

PonoBill

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Re: #TooBigToFoil then go Bigger
« Reply #14 on: December 20, 2020, 09:35:51 AM »
I like the Plasticman hand in your birthday photos. The new GoPros produce some weird effects.

Since I've been here in SoCal I've taken off on some waves that were TooBigToFoil in my opinion (or at least for my capabilities and comfort). Nothing like screwing around near Mavericks or the North Shore, but steep and overhead. I've taken your advice to heart and kept every ounce of my weight on my front foot and the board on the water until I no longer was considering crapping my shorts. It's generally worked well, though there have been a few runs through the rinse cycle where I was fairly certain my board/foil was going to take my head off. Enough so that I'm wearing a helmet.
« Last Edit: December 20, 2020, 09:39:06 AM by PonoBill »
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

 


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