Author Topic: Typhoon #10 (Haishen)  (Read 2851 times)

OkiWild

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Typhoon #10 (Haishen)
« on: September 05, 2020, 03:01:49 AM »
A short Insta clip from Thursday with no wind and the first front-runners arriving. Then some pics and a short clip from today. Swell today is running 18' at 17". This hits the outside reef where we were, but it's too windy to surf out there (third reef), not that I would, anyway...LOL  Then it reforms and bends into where we surf it, usually 12-15 feet on the face in the peak. You have to really pick the wave, but you can catch that on a chip, where it will break a little, and get you into it. The it ledges out on the inside bowl, and slabs if the tide is right, usually around 10-12 feet on the face. Pretty bumpy, but super fun. 

Hate how the GoPro makes everything seem small... First pic (POV) is the same wave and same time as the fourth pic (from shore).

Super fun, and caught a lot of waves this day. Surfed six hours on Thursday, six hours on Friday, and then four hours in the heavier stuff this morning. Legs are DONE! Board is the Blue Planet All Good with Futures GL2 thruster, and Mink System diffusers. Board was a little wide, and on hard turns at serious speed, I found myself wanting my Ninja Warrior or Pocket Knife.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CEtBU1snJj2/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link


https://www.instagram.com/p/CEvvUu8n_FY/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link   


« Last Edit: September 05, 2020, 03:04:31 AM by OkiWild »

LBsup

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Re: Typhoon #10 (Haishen)
« Reply #1 on: September 05, 2020, 04:27:56 AM »
Wow, sizable surf! Your right the GoPro does not tell size at all.  I guess there are channels to get out there?  I believe you have another typhoon on the way so rest up.
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Night Wing

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Re: Typhoon #10 (Haishen)
« Reply #2 on: September 05, 2020, 05:16:02 AM »
Board is the Blue Planet All Good with Futures GL2 thruster, and Mink System diffusers. Board was a little wide, and on hard turns at serious speed, I found myself wanting my Ninja Warrior or Pocket Knife.

Nice video. I'm a fan of those small type of slow roller waves.

And thanks for the details on the board you were using and it's fins setup.

Thanks for sharing your videos.
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surfercook

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Re: Typhoon #10 (Haishen)
« Reply #3 on: September 05, 2020, 06:48:07 AM »
Holy moly! That's some serious size and power. And you are handling it proper, Oki! Funny, I was just thinking about you this morning here in NJ after listening to the news. They said Typhoon Haishen is gonna slam Okinawa! Stay safe wave warrior!

Typhoon Haishen to threaten Okinawa
https://mainichi.jp/english/articles/20200905/p2a/00m/0na/006000c

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PonoBill

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Re: Typhoon #10 (Haishen)
« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2020, 05:08:36 PM »
That;s one of the reasons I quit shooting video--that and I hate editing. We had an el Ninio winter in Maui a few years ago--every day was 7-10 Hawaiian, and the GoPro made it look like 3-4. At the end of the winter I considered having T-shirt made to hand out to friends, something like "I survived....etc. There were days and moments when I thought I might not.
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justsomeguy

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Re: Typhoon #10 (Haishen)
« Reply #5 on: September 05, 2020, 07:40:36 PM »
Juicy!! ... thanks for sharing!
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OkiWild

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Re: Typhoon #10 (Haishen)
« Reply #6 on: September 05, 2020, 10:53:08 PM »
Wow, sizable surf! Your right the GoPro does not tell size at all.  I guess there are channels to get out there?  I believe you have another typhoon on the way so rest up.

Lots of current moving when the size picks up, but always a "safe" entrance and exit. You might get wadded up on the beach, but pretty easy to miss the rocks. This was the second of two typhoons. The one last week brought good waves, but 100mph gusts, too. Like five days of good surf after it passed. This one might have hit 70mph last night.

Board is the Blue Planet All Good with Futures GL2 thruster, and Mink System diffusers. Board was a little wide, and on hard turns at serious speed, I found myself wanting my Ninja Warrior or Pocket Knife.

Nice video. I'm a fan of those small type of slow roller waves.

And thanks for the details on the board you were using and it's fins setup.

Thanks for sharing your videos.


Thanks NW.


Holy moly! That's some serious size and power. And you are handling it proper, Oki! Funny, I was just thinking about you this morning here in NJ after listening to the news. They said Typhoon Haishen is gonna slam Okinawa! Stay safe wave warrior!

Typhoon Haishen to threaten Okinawa
https://mainichi.jp/english/articles/20200905/p2a/00m/0na/006000c

Anybody know how to make text an active link? I used to do it on another forum but it's been a while.

Thanks SC. Those two waves felt like a motocross track. Makes a board really hard to turn, as it'll just skip out from under you. Storms are no big deal for us here in Oki. Everything is made of concrete. Agriculture suffers the most, and sometimes vehicle damage, but loss of life is pretty rare. The storm last week was a howler.

That;s one of the reasons I quit shooting video--that and I hate editing. We had an el Ninio winter in Maui a few years ago--every day was 7-10 Hawaiian, and the GoPro made it look like 3-4. At the end of the winter I considered having T-shirt made to hand out to friends, something like "I survived....etc. There were days and moments when I thought I might not.

Hi Bill. I actually enjoy the editing. Not a lot to do with all the kids out of the house :-)  I hate shooting video, though. I surf three to five times per week, but produce very little video. This is the first time I've taken it out in more serious conditions. There's way to much going on to fuddle with the camera, too. TBH, at this point, if not for a couple of sponsorship commitments, I'd leave it to the kids :-)

Juicy!! ... thanks for sharing!

Thanks. Will try to get some stuff from the cleaner days.

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Re: Typhoon #10 (Haishen)
« Reply #7 on: September 06, 2020, 03:00:41 AM »
Going big Oki!

Stoked you got some stills of the session to put it in perspective.
If you remember Kai 's GoPro vids of 60' Jaws... the GoPro does not give it justice for sure....
but it gives speed and length of drop, which is a good hint to the size!

My friends Shrimpy and Taku where foiling some of those waves near Kanaka

I hope the storms treat you and your islands fairly!!!

surfinJ

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Re: Typhoon #10 (Haishen)
« Reply #8 on: September 06, 2020, 11:17:35 PM »
Yea, go Oki. Now that is some real summer juice.

So how was the crowd out there?  Here at a certain size the few spot that remain rideable get swamped.

And how is the inside there if you do not make the wave?  Do you where a vest?

Thanks for the stoke.

OkiWild

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Re: Typhoon #10 (Haishen)
« Reply #9 on: September 07, 2020, 03:03:37 AM »
Going big Oki!

Stoked you got some stills of the session to put it in perspective.
If you remember Kai 's GoPro vids of 60' Jaws... the GoPro does not give it justice for sure....
but it gives speed and length of drop, which is a good hint to the size!

My friends Shrimpy and Taku where foiling some of those waves near Kanaka

I hope the storms treat you and your islands fairly!!!

Thanks Creek. Yea, Takuji and Shrimpy are usually on it. The ocean is all they do :-)


Yea, go Oki. Now that is some real summer juice.

So how was the crowd out there?  Here at a certain size the few spot that remain rideable get swamped.

And how is the inside there if you do not make the wave?  Do you where a vest?

Thanks for the stoke.


No crowd here :-) Only one guy I SUP with and a couple of groms that tag along with us. Most surfers will head farther into the bay for spots that are a little more tame. Lots of nooks and crannys with lots of unridden peaks, though. The benefit of an irregular coastline. You can usually find something smaller, and sheltered from the wind.

Inside isn't bad, and you'll never get washed all the way to the rocks, as the bigger it gets, the stronger the long-shore current is that will sweep you into a channel. Out is easy, as you just jump in, hit the rip, and you're out there. Getting out you have to hit the beach, which has some pound, but easy to time.

Biggest issue is this wave breaks on a third reef. On days like this it's freaking huge. Like 20' Hawaiian (18' @ 17 seconds on this day), and top to bottom hollow across a shoal. It then reforms in the middle, which s usually where I'll catch it. It'll peak up, maybe crumble break, which is a steep and fun chip in, and then hits the inside first reef, and can slabout. Biggest problem is sometimes the set waves are so big, it breaks on that third reef, and it's white water all the way in. So you have to put yourself in the peak, but stay on your toes to dig out if it looks like it's going to break all the way through. Easy to get under, though. I've never hit the bottom here, but you can get a long hold down.

If I put the helmet on, I wear a vest. Current one is a Billabong Dbah wake vest. Mostly for impact, but popping right back to the surface is nice, too :-)  We have some big wave riders here. Four surfers were on that outer peak this day. But we haven't caught up with the rest of the world where safety is concerned, and someone died out there a few years back. No floatation. No safety ski. They were all wearing helmets this year, which was nice to see. Amazing how much a helmet pulls you back to the surface, too.   

surfinJ

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Re: Typhoon #10 (Haishen)
« Reply #10 on: September 08, 2020, 09:20:26 AM »
Thanks for the detailed response.  I am loving the details.
The Rock is really a surf paradise. And that spot sounds dreamy.  To have all of that and no crowd, so nice.

I had never considered the float from a helmet which is the main thing I want from the vest.  And jet skis, well that is for the chosen few I guess.

 I remember some of the tucked away spots, way back in the bays that only broke on typhoon swells.

 


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