Getting the stoke by ear...

[Wetstuff]

I have not had the opportunity to foil yet - I am almost ready. I come to the forums for tips and the news. I find however a boat load of stoke available on Erik Antonson's Progression Project.  95% goes straight over my head - 98% would never be applicable to me, but there is a measure of enthusiasm that simply adds oxygen to my blood cells. 

What prompts this posting ...he and Mike Pedigo, a FL shaper, were talking at the end about why the reluctance of other surfers to take up the foil, how it totally changes a break, etc. Antonson said, something to the effect, "I have no desire for surf trips, because (with the foil) I have the best waves in the world right here." 

The comments that stuck with me were around/after the 83min mark. 

https://app.stitcher.com/browse/feed/131591/episodes#/


Jim

[Hdip]

It's not necessarily that you don't want to take a trip to barreling perfect waves. It's that you're always looking for 2 foot mush and no one's going to fly around the world to find 2 foot mush.

The westcoastfoilclub guys back when they were still active on instagram posted their footage from a Tavarua trip. It was all 1 foot unbroken swell lines towed into with a ski. They said they like Tavarua more like that now.

It's much easier to find crappy waves than it is to find good waves. That being said the West coast doesn't have quite the proliferation of spots that the East coast might. Our beach breaks are less conducive to foiling. Doesn't stop me from going to them though!

[Wetstuff]

"It's not necessarily that you don't want to take a trip to barreling perfect waves. It's that you're always looking for 2 foot mush and no one's going to fly around the world to find 2 foot mush. "   That's a perspective I had not thought of, Hd. 

Unlike guys like Creek (that I know within this group) who have spent time/effort roaming the planet looking to get covered, I was always plotting trips to 'Low-n-Slow'. My future is likely limited to behind the barrier island wing and winging.

Jim