Author Topic: Know when to quit.  (Read 1167 times)

lopezwill

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Dusk Patrol

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Re: Know when to quit.
« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2020, 11:46:10 PM »
Canít get caught any further inside than that...
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Kwolfe

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Re: Know when to quit.
« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2020, 02:55:51 AM »
At what point would your "f*ck this" alarm go off?  Mine would have been the first time I and my board got dragged 30yards over rock.  Yup I'm out.  Where's the sand.

Wetstuff

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Re: Know when to quit.
« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2020, 05:56:51 AM »
Whew.. the only good to come from that is a possible commercial for the board brand - if even it survived intact.  That started stoopid then turned sad.

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Night Wing

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Re: Know when to quit.
« Reply #4 on: May 29, 2020, 06:10:44 AM »
I would say that guy was a "masochist". In other words, "he was a glutton for punishment" and the surf DEFINITELY delivered on the punishment.  ;D
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supthecreek

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Re: Know when to quit.
« Reply #5 on: May 29, 2020, 07:11:07 AM »
He was out of his league and got schooled.... but hey, he didn't give up easily.  :)

Paddling out at a break like that is the easy part..... time it right, jump over a small one and paddle like you mean it.

Getting back out of the water isn't so easy because the timing is much less controllable.
Hopefully he had a sandy beach as a exit, instead of where he tried to launch.

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surfinJ

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Re: Know when to quit.
« Reply #6 on: May 29, 2020, 12:31:36 PM »
Pretty sure he is jumping in at the slab they call Ours. Less then half the waves are made leading possibly back to the same spot. Crazy bunch that try to surf it.

Weasels wake

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Re: Know when to quit.
« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2020, 04:02:20 PM »
"I try to go surfing this one time, and now my board is so heavy, I just can't figure that out".
It takes a quiver to do that.

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Re: Know when to quit.
« Reply #8 on: May 30, 2020, 01:39:36 AM »
You can only hope that his friend that took him out there also lent him the board. 

SUP Leave

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Re: Know when to quit.
« Reply #9 on: June 02, 2020, 12:10:38 PM »
I give him major credit for the effort, surely he has learned a big lesson. Very beginning he is standing on a rock looking up at a wave, how can it go any other way? Then when he jumps off the rock to surfers' right, his paddling is ineffective at best. Then when a wave comes, he puts no effort into a duck dive, so he clearly is outside of his abilities. SUP guys are lucky, can jump in 1/2 mile away and paddle to the break.

I've only tried a few rock off spots, but getting out is generally easy. Jump over the back of a wave and paddle like hell.  Landing on the other hand, takes pretty good surf awareness. Embarrassed myself pretty bad at 'pools' on Maui, trying to get back out at the pool. Of course it was after 3 perfect landing on days prior . . . but with a big crowd on the rail, I got washed over the little isthmus right as I stood up on it. Bloody knees, vana quills, the whole thing.

I have a great piece of advice for anyone who is going to attempt getting out on the rocks for the first time. Launch there without a surfboard and play around in the area. Duck dive big sets, and practice getting in and out. It will only take 10 minutes of swimming to figure out how waves react to the hard surfaces, where the pillows are, what size waves create a good landing scenario etc. If you don't feel comfortable swimming there, then definitely do not launch a surfboard there with the intent of getting back out.  Surfboard adds a degree of difficulty.
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