Author Topic: Steep and Hollow  (Read 6279 times)

jondrums

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Steep and Hollow
« on: November 24, 2019, 09:54:59 AM »
Anyone figured out the trick to late drops into steep and hollow waves? 

I've been surfing a spot lately that breaks this way (and having a ball by the way).  Its incredible to drop late and outrun the section that looks totally unmake-able on a surfboard or SUP.  I'm having to retrain my brain that screams "bail out the back!"

What I'm struggling with is a complete inability to ride the middle/top of the wave where it is steep.  The only thing that has been working is go straight down the wave to the flat and use that speed to get in front of the wave on the mellow part of the shoulder.  I'm really wanting to make a bottom turn and get back into the middle of the pit to either make a top turn or trim for speed, but that ends in complete disaster so far. 

I'm starting to wonder if a much smaller wing is the ticket.  Or maybe just get a lot more athletic on the turns to get the board more vertical up and down the waveface.

Sup-position

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Re: Steep and Hollow
« Reply #1 on: November 24, 2019, 10:27:36 AM »
What size waves are you talking about
Is it a reef or a beach break
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Califoilia

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Re: Steep and Hollow
« Reply #2 on: November 24, 2019, 11:11:35 AM »
I've found that to get into bigger, steeper waves...is that as soon as you get the board off of the wing to start to fly...turn to the shoulder, and start navigating from there.

Might just be me...but previously, when I tried to head straight down the pocket of the bigger stuff...I'd find myself either pearling the nose, or flying the wing out of the water as I tried to pull the nose up from the surface, or just after bouncing off of it.

The sooner I can get out to the top of the shoulder/swell where the organized underwater energy is, the happier I am...and from there I go about finding my lines back along the face to go play in turns wise.
Me: 6'1"/185...(2) 5'1" Kings Foil/Wing Boards...7'10 Kings DW Board...9'6" Bob Pearson "Laird Noserider"...14' Lahui Kai "Manta"...8'0" WaveStorm if/when the proning urges still hit.

flkiter

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Re: Steep and Hollow
« Reply #3 on: November 24, 2019, 11:45:13 AM »
I'm on a 1000 axis, ultra short fuselage and 400 rear wing, it lets me drop late and pump onto foil faster. I can even blast through the rear of the wave with the set up. I also use a 102 with the same set up and it gives the same effect of getting on foil faster. What's your foil set up?

PonoBill

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Re: Steep and Hollow
« Reply #4 on: November 24, 2019, 11:56:36 AM »
I watch Dave Kalama and Junya McGurn on big steep stuff, and they use the back of the wave to start their bottom turns. There's energy back there, and if you're going fast enough you can couple to it enough to finish the first half of a turn before you drop into the rocket zone. I can do that part, but when I come over the lip and the wing starts accelerating everything turns to shit. I need to harden the fuck up and get used to the speed on the face. I', certain it's just me being a weenie that's holding me back. That and a general lack of skill and talent.
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Hilly

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Re: Steep and Hollow
« Reply #5 on: November 24, 2019, 04:41:19 PM »
I'm starting to wonder if a much smaller wing is the ticket.

I find this helps a lot. Getting the 1200 Armstrong was a game-changer as far as turning at speed compared to the 1600. As PonoBill says there is a certain amount of HTFU too.

jondrums

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Re: Steep and Hollow
« Reply #6 on: November 24, 2019, 05:28:04 PM »
use the back of the wave to start their bottom turns

I'm pretty confused about this description.  If anyone has ANY video of foiling on steep and hollow, I've really looking for a good example and can't find any.

jondrums

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Re: Steep and Hollow
« Reply #7 on: November 24, 2019, 05:30:03 PM »
What size waves are you talking about
Is it a reef or a beach break

both.  Most recently a reef on north coast of santa cruz, but also beach break at Ocean Beach, which is among the most steep/hollow/big of any beach break I know of.

Swell has been overhead+ lately.  The smaller steep stuff, I think the foil is big enough to be in different parts of the wave at the same time and I've been able to make it work.

jondrums

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Re: Steep and Hollow
« Reply #8 on: November 24, 2019, 05:31:58 PM »
I've found that to get into bigger, steeper waves...is that as soon as you get the board off of the wing to start to fly...turn to the shoulder, and start navigating from there.

Yes, this works for me if I get in early before I'm in the steep part of the wave.  If I try to turn on the face of a steep wave, the board trips on itself and things end very poorly.  Tried a lot of different ways.  Definitely, getting to the shoulder and the organized part of the wave works great and I enjoy that too.  Just on a mission to solve surfing in the pit of the wave

Piros

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Re: Steep and Hollow
« Reply #9 on: November 24, 2019, 08:39:38 PM »
Steeper larger days first thing I do is drop down in wing size especially rear wing , maybe bump the mast back 1/2 " . On the take off same on prone as in Sup lay or stand a bit further forward on the board. On the drop everything you have pushes on the front foot , make that then into the bottom turn then keep the board turning , easing it top to bottom of the wave . This helps build speed and avoid the straight line breach. Once you get that up and down motion going you start to move with the wave , if you just go straight you run the risk breaching a wing tip or getting sucked up the face and over you go. You don't need to do big radical turns just nice drawn out S turns  , feels great and looks even better. 
« Last Edit: November 24, 2019, 08:44:52 PM by Piros »
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Califoilia

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Re: Steep and Hollow
« Reply #10 on: November 24, 2019, 11:20:35 PM »
Just on a mission to solve surfing in the pit of the wave
You can still surf/foil in the pit...just don't takeoff in it initially.  ;) ;D
Me: 6'1"/185...(2) 5'1" Kings Foil/Wing Boards...7'10 Kings DW Board...9'6" Bob Pearson "Laird Noserider"...14' Lahui Kai "Manta"...8'0" WaveStorm if/when the proning urges still hit.

Beasho

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Re: Steep and Hollow
« Reply #11 on: November 25, 2019, 11:05:07 PM »
Take the wave and make it yours. 

Drop and pump and then drive into the bottom off the top then fade the pit. 

Beasho

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Re: Steep and Hollow
« Reply #12 on: November 25, 2019, 11:06:00 PM »
Take the wave and make it yours. 

Drop and pump and then drive into the bottom off the top then fade the pit.

WTF Beasho this makes no sense at all. 

supthecreek

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Re: Steep and Hollow
« Reply #13 on: November 26, 2019, 07:49:58 AM »

[/quote]

I'm pretty confused about this description.  If anyone has ANY video of foiling on steep and hollow, I've really looking for a good example and can't find any.
[/quote]

He's a video of James Casey riding his Sunova prone/tow foil in big Uluwatu
Lots of shoulders early, but some pretty critical stuff near the 3 minute mark (pic)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShJImqndhgY

Califoilia

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Re: Steep and Hollow
« Reply #14 on: November 26, 2019, 11:04:12 AM »
Lots of shoulders early, but some pretty critical stuff near the 3 minute mark (pic)
Yes...that's the key!!

The sooner I can get out to the top of the shoulder/swell where the organized underwater energy is, the happier I am...and from there I go about finding my lines back along the face to go play in turns wise.
:)
Me: 6'1"/185...(2) 5'1" Kings Foil/Wing Boards...7'10 Kings DW Board...9'6" Bob Pearson "Laird Noserider"...14' Lahui Kai "Manta"...8'0" WaveStorm if/when the proning urges still hit.

 


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