Author Topic: Home Runners  (Read 5252 times)

OkiWild

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Home Runners
« on: November 08, 2019, 11:36:06 PM »
Some knee to waist high runners at one of my "home" breaks. A spot about 10 minutes from my house. Small but super fun. Caught more than thirty waves this day. Glassy and knee high until a cold front passed over, wind switching to north and side-onshore, but picking up the size to waist.

There's a narrow opening (window) to the bay, so it takes an east to northeast swell to make it in to this spot. When it breaks, 90% of the time, it's onshore and sloppy, but a few times a year, it breaks super clean, and on the right typhoon swell, it'll hold 3+ meter faces, wind turns offshore, and it's magic. This area is one of the best beginner spots on the island. Modern swell predictors don't do a good job of telling when it's up, you just have to be dialed in to how it works. So I get a lot of days here by myself, especially since switching to SUP, as you can have so much fin on waves you can't even ride on a shortboard. Third day at this spot this week, and only had one day with another SUP, and another day with a friend on a surf ski that showed up. 

Shot 100% in POV with GoPro bite mount. Not ready to start adding music, so enjoy the wind and breathing noises... ;-)

Board is a Blue Planet NP10 at 10'0"x28"x128L. I love this board so much, I just ordered a carbon one ;-)

« Last Edit: November 08, 2019, 11:39:12 PM by OkiWild »

Night Wing

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Re: Home Runners
« Reply #1 on: November 09, 2019, 07:09:19 AM »
Another fine video. And since there were no other surfers, it is nice to have the entire place where you surf, all to yourself. I like waves where I can surf them all the way to the beach. The glide is the ride for me.

BTW, thanks for providing the length of your fin. A nice detail.

Thanks for sharing your video. Great to see a video at this time of the year because it is 42 degrees F at my home in southeast Texas as I type this post.
Blue Planet Duke: 10'5" x 32" x 4.5" @ 190 Liters
Sup Sports Hammer: 8'11" x 31" x 4" @ 140 Liters
SUP Sports One World: 11'1" x 30" x 4.5" @ 173 Liters

surfinJ

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Re: Home Runners
« Reply #2 on: November 10, 2019, 02:15:00 AM »
Nice, digin it. I find that this camera angle lets the viewer really ride along.
Surfing alone on a sup is very liberating.  You can just keep grabbing the next wave.  Such a different experience then I a crowd.   
I think I surfed the spot by the pier a couple of times on big swells.

The board was nice and loose.  I have a favorite board that is a similar 9x28 120l quad finned. Feels like a skateboard.
« Last Edit: November 10, 2019, 02:16:33 AM by surfinJ »

supthecreek

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Re: Home Runners
« Reply #3 on: November 10, 2019, 10:11:41 AM »
Another fun one Oki.... thanks for the continued vids!

nalu-sup

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Re: Home Runners
« Reply #4 on: November 10, 2019, 02:46:08 PM »
Hi OkiWild. Thanks for posting more of your fun videos, complete with enjoyable commentary.
One question for you: You mentioned in your post that you are ordering a carbon version of that board. I am 98% certain that your current board in the video is a carbon version. My understanding is that the boards with the pinstripes running through the white nose area, with the large skeleton fish head on the nose, is one of the graphics in recent years on the carbon versions. There was also a year when the carbon version had the nose in white brushed carbon instead of the pinstripe, and with the same fishhead. I thought that in the year your board was made, the bamboo non-carbon version had exposed bamboo showing on the deck and bottom, and a smaller fish logo showing the whole fish.
I certainly could be totally wrong about this, but I would be tempted to send a photo of your current board to Robert at Blue Planet, and ask him to confirm which construction you already have.
I also might have misunderstood your whole intention, if you are simply ordering another carbon board like the one in the video, but maybe with a newer graphic. Sorry if I misunderstood.
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FRP

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Re: Home Runners
« Reply #5 on: November 10, 2019, 04:57:40 PM »
Thanks for posting oki.

I am surfing variously through you and posts by surfercook! Thanks Cookie. I havenít been able to get out surfing for a couple months now and keep stoked by you guys.

Iím down in Guatemala doing some volunteer work. Drove to the coast to surf here 5 or six years ago and the surf camp was littered with broken boards when we drove in. A wicked beach break but caught a few good rides.

Keep the videos coming. With any luck will get back in the water in December.

Cheers

Bob
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"The time spent surfing is time that is added to my life" ďIn the ocean we are all connectedĒ
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Re: Home Runners
« Reply #6 on: November 10, 2019, 05:24:06 PM »
Could never get into the bite mount, but it's a good POV. Nice waves dude...

OkiWild

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Re: Home Runners
« Reply #7 on: November 12, 2019, 02:33:05 AM »
Another fine video. And since there were no other surfers, it is nice to have the entire place where you surf, all to yourself. I like waves where I can surf them all the way to the beach. The glide is the ride for me.

BTW, thanks for providing the length of your fin. A nice detail.

Thanks for sharing your video. Great to see a video at this time of the year because it is 42 degrees F at my home in southeast Texas as I type this post.

Thanks NW. Actual fin specs I use in this board are the Futures F6 Honeycomb Quad, but with the 3.5" rears instead of the stock 4.0" ones. The fronts are actually 4.56" deep.



Nice, digin it. I find that this camera angle lets the viewer really ride along.
Surfing alone on a sup is very liberating.  You can just keep grabbing the next wave.  Such a different experience then I a crowd.   
I think I surfed the spot by the pier a couple of times on big swells.

The board was nice and loose.  I have a favorite board that is a similar 9x28 120l quad finned. Feels like a skateboard.


Thanks J. "Tengan" is the spot on the other side of the pier, and is the place to be during big swell. It's pretty fat and easy, even at double, with a long right-hander, and easy paddle back out. Now on a Typhoon, there will be...no joke...around 70 people out on that one wave. It's "safe" so all skill level will crowd it, and it's become a serious joke. There was a video on YT showing how bad it was, but they took it down.

I'm liking the POV angle more and more. Problem is getting the angle right. I started wearing it on a helmet, at forehead height, and finally took it into very hollow surf this last weekend, with the intention of getting some barrel shots. Lots of waves under the hook to half behind the curtain, but the footage was 100% worthless. Normal angle for standing up vs. crouching for a small tube is totally different. All I got was a great view of the front half of the board and lower half of the wave. Turns out you actually have to be pretty deep to view the curtain too, which is mostly a non-starter for an almost 9'x28" wide SUP in all but stand-up tubes. Board just won't fit in the places a short board will :-)  So I'm working on better angles for that, like maybe the paddle from behind.



Another fun one Oki.... thanks for the continued vids!
 

Thanks Creek!



Hi OkiWild. Thanks for posting more of your fun videos, complete with enjoyable commentary.
One question for you: You mentioned in your post that you are ordering a carbon version of that board. I am 98% certain that your current board in the video is a carbon version. My understanding is that the boards with the pinstripes running through the white nose area, with the large skeleton fish head on the nose, is one of the graphics in recent years on the carbon versions. There was also a year when the carbon version had the nose in white brushed carbon instead of the pinstripe, and with the same fishhead. I thought that in the year your board was made, the bamboo non-carbon version had exposed bamboo showing on the deck and bottom, and a smaller fish logo showing the whole fish.
I certainly could be totally wrong about this, but I would be tempted to send a photo of your current board to Robert at Blue Planet, and ask him to confirm which construction you already have.
I also might have misunderstood your whole intention, if you are simply ordering another carbon board like the one in the video, but maybe with a newer graphic. Sorry if I misunderstood.

Thanks Nalu. The board is the traditional glass layup. I think this board is a 2017 model, and there were fully painted and grey pinstriped gloss boards in glass with carbon deck. The carbon for the deck is visible, but it's only carbon in that area. I've also repaired four major dings on this board now, so I've seen its guts :-)  With the 2019 boards, this went away, and all of the glass boards are exposed bamboo.

Having owned carbon sea kayaks, the experience I had with one cheap carbon SUP surfboard, and constantly fixing cracks in a Kazuma race board from the lightest paddle strikes (great quality, but built to be light), had soured my taste for all things carbon (except for paddles) in marine sports... However, when I put in my request for two new boards for December, I half joked about buying another green w/pinstripes glass NP10 that was being auctioned for $600 on their site, as I keep abusing the one I have, and want a backup for during repair time (I surf 3-5 times per week). So they un-jokingly made me a deal I couldn't refuse on a blue/white 2019 carbon NP10. I talked to Keoni Campbell (also BP team rider and big wave SUP surfer ) about it, and he told me the BP carbon layup is solid and quality. So I went for that board, as well.


Thanks for posting oki.

I am surfing variously through you and posts by surfercook! Thanks Cookie. I havenít been able to get out surfing for a couple months now and keep stoked by you guys.

Iím down in Guatemala doing some volunteer work. Drove to the coast to surf here 5 or six years ago and the surf camp was littered with broken boards when we drove in. A wicked beach break but caught a few good rides.

Keep the videos coming. With any luck will get back in the water in December.

Cheers

Bob

Thanks Bob! Hang in there :-)


Could never get into the bite mount, but it's a good POV. Nice waves dude...

Thanks TD.

Yea, you want to hear something really annoying about the bite mount, other than the distraction? My front, upper four teeth are a false bridge, as I knocked them out in a motorcycle accident when I was 16. Broke the upper bone too, so can't do full implants. I took a heavy wipeout about six months ago and the bite mount busted it out to the tune of an $800 repair. It was an unnamed spot we now call "Toothless."  I swore it off, and made the helmet camera mount. But I don't like wearing the helmet most of the time, so a few weeks back, I was using it on a just overhead, but slabbing-hollow wave, and took a big hit...and I'm now out another $800. It may go in the trash, or I might learn to spit it out...   

supthecreek

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Re: Home Runners
« Reply #8 on: November 12, 2019, 04:17:08 PM »
"Yea, you want to hear something really annoying about the bite mount, other than the distraction? My front, upper four teeth are a false bridge, as I knocked them out in a motorcycle accident when I was 16. Broke the upper bone too, so can't do full implants. I took a heavy wipeout about six months ago and the bite mount busted it out to the tune of an $800 repair. It was an unnamed spot we now call "Toothless."  I swore it off, and made the helmet camera mount. But I don't like wearing the helmet most of the time, so a few weeks back, I was using it on a just overhead, but slabbing-hollow wave, and took a big hit...and I'm now out another $800. It may go in the trash, or I might learn to spit it out..."

Then go make a Kook Hat Cam!  :)

You wear a Kook Hat.... you just need the stiff brimmed Da Kine Trucker Cap and:
1 bolt
1 washer   
1 GoPro TriPod mount

and 2 minutes of your time.

Beasho

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Re: Home Runners
« Reply #9 on: November 12, 2019, 04:40:36 PM »
My neighbor Travis has the partial patent on that bite mount.  Blame him.

Then again he once gave me a bag of GoPro's that I "shared around" so we can't blame him too much :)

Here is a similar option to what Creek is suggesting.  Just buy the hat on Amazon.  I have been using this hat for several years.  Attache a lanyard to my Camelbak and I have a camera at the ready ALL THE TIME.  I recommend the GoPro Session 5 for its light profile.

https://www.amazon.com/Smatree-Baseball-Release-Session-58-60cm/dp/B019Q8DH5Q/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=gopro+hat&qid=1573605367&sr=8-3

 

OkiWild

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Re: Home Runners
« Reply #10 on: November 12, 2019, 05:04:22 PM »

Then go make a Kook Hat Cam!  :)

You wear a Kook Hat.... you just need the stiff brimmed Da Kine Trucker Cap and:
1 bolt
1 washer   
1 GoPro TriPod mount

and 2 minutes of your time.


Will work on it this week  :D

surfercook

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Re: Home Runners
« Reply #11 on: November 15, 2019, 03:31:54 PM »
Nice glassy solo session. That bite Mount POV ain't bad but I found it to be one of the most uncomfortable things ever.
One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
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