Author Topic: Opening day  (Read 1342 times)

surfinJ

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Opening day
« on: October 07, 2019, 11:42:01 PM »
So after a few clean and uncrowded days at this spot the core of the swell hit as well as 20-30 hungry ones with guns.  Bumpy and busy would describe it. The first significant waves of the winter season had me anxious but it was the crowd that put me off my game. So instead of the big wave board and entering the pack, I opted for the performance longboard and would play the fringes. 


My custom Sunova Surf is the ticket to calm the nerves. Mobility and stability.
Paddlesurfhawaii quads L, 12 long, thick and hand tied leash from StayCovered. And a kite surf vest with an inner belt to keep it from getting pulled over my head in a wipeout.
When I first paddled out I tried under the pack but after taking a bomb set on the head, testing my kit, I retreated to the inside peak.  And got lucky with a photog.


« Last Edit: October 07, 2019, 11:44:12 PM by surfinJ »

surfinJ

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Re: Opening day
« Reply #1 on: October 08, 2019, 12:16:26 AM »
+

surfinJ

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Re: Opening day
« Reply #2 on: October 08, 2019, 12:17:28 AM »
+

surfinJ

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Re: Opening day
« Reply #3 on: October 08, 2019, 12:32:21 AM »
Sorry due to zone tech probs will continue with more photos later.

Admin

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Re: Opening day
« Reply #4 on: October 08, 2019, 02:58:35 AM »
Sorry due to zone tech probs will continue with more photos later.

Hi,

Your images above are 3000 x 2000.  If you downsize them to 1000 or so for the largest dimension they will upload.

Thanks

surfinJ

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Re: Opening day
« Reply #5 on: October 08, 2019, 04:07:58 AM »
Cool, thanks for the support.

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Re: Opening day
« Reply #6 on: October 08, 2019, 04:13:00 AM »
That looks fun!  Where are you?

surfinJ

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Re: Opening day
« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2019, 04:19:59 AM »
At home in France. The outside break where the QuikPro is now running.

surfinJ

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Re: Opening day
« Reply #8 on: October 08, 2019, 04:21:08 AM »
.

gzasinets

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Re: Opening day
« Reply #9 on: October 08, 2019, 06:11:36 AM »
Nice waves! Great surfing  8)
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supthecreek

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Re: Opening day
« Reply #10 on: October 08, 2019, 07:00:58 AM »
The swell has arrived!
Some nice size there J.... great to finally see some pics of you from the beach, they are awesome  :)

Enjoy the contest bustle, that's a great venue for Pro events!

TallDude

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Re: Opening day
« Reply #11 on: October 08, 2019, 09:30:36 AM »
Ripping it J! Great pictures. Some good size too. I'd be thinking about wearing my impact vest in those conditions. I keep one in my car, but I've only worn it a few times. With outside breaks that are well OH, it's a smart move.  8)

OkiWild

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Re: Opening day
« Reply #12 on: October 08, 2019, 05:10:50 PM »
Great pics J!

surfinJ

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Re: Opening day
« Reply #13 on: October 08, 2019, 11:22:48 PM »
Thanks for all the kind words. Like most surfers I have almost never seen pics of myself.  Most of our family and friends are not photogs and quickly lose sight of if they do try. Need big lenses and time.  I got lucky with this guy.

surfercook

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Re: Opening day
« Reply #14 on: Today at 05:26:49 AM »
Nice sup surfin, SJ. Cool you found your "Place" in our oceanic enviro.
SC  8)
One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
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