Author Topic: Some Backside before Breakfast  (Read 20395 times)

OkiWild

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Some Backside before Breakfast
« on: October 03, 2019, 05:08:36 AM »
Early morning session at a "secret" break close to my house. Zero to very little offshore wind. Sets maybe just overhead in the peak, and shoulder down the line.

Most of the "good" footage was shot as soon as I got out, and before the tide filled. I changed the GoPro to "Linear" mode as an experiment, forgot about it, and it pretty much ruined all of the footage of larger set waves...so this is a compilation of the smaller waves I got early on. I added two of the "Linear" clips at the end to show what it does to the footage with Hypersmooth stabilization left on. All of the footage is "kook cam" from the nose. Trying different stuff, POV, paddle, etc., but still sorting it out.

This spot is mostly rights except in the winter, where the swell will shift northeast, making the left hold up. On a larger day, the wave is much longer and faster than what I filmed here. Hollow and bowling in the peak and for a short run, then slows down, going a little fat through a section. Then it bends in along the reef, standing up for another fast, hollow inside section. When the left works, it's a hollow slab over shallow reef, with a quick barrel into a fun section that usually ends with a right coming at you to close it out. Really fun wave, but the distance from the shore dictates light wind.

Board is a Blue Planet NP10 nose rider with Futures F6 quad fins, QD2 3.75's in the trailing slots.


On a side note, I've found myself in quite the slump for a few months now. My progression on the SUP seemed to stall for quite some time, and I was feeling like I would never get to the competence/confidence level I was at on a short board. Very frustrated, leaving the camera in the car. Struggling to get into the larger surf, and once in, not "satisfied" with my performance. For a while, there even seemed to be some regression, like maybe I was trying too hard, and getting suckier for it. Although, my standing in rougher conditions has definitely been improving. As of this morning, when this footage was shot, that slump has lifted. Yesterday we surfed this larger mutant wave, where I just gave up and let it be what it'll be (you can't surf that wave good, only survive...LOL). This morning it was just all good. Even the ruined footage didn't get me down. I just let it go, and everything turned on for me. It's going to be a great fall and winter. 


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rc0UiLESh08

supthecreek

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Re: Some Backside before Breakfast
« Reply #1 on: October 03, 2019, 05:59:47 AM »
I am happy to see a video of you getting some nice clean waves to ride!
That reef looks like a great spot.... but a mile offshore is pretty remote for a solo session.

Great video style.
I like the added info on the video and in the text..... it's the kind of stuff that moves the needle forward.

Interesting about your slump.... I experienced the exact same thing for the past year in certain conditions.
I scoured my vides looking for clues, but could only see the fails... not the reasons.

That issue has been solved in spades... but I'll post a thread about how I solved it.  ;D ;D

Night Wing

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Re: Some Backside before Breakfast
« Reply #2 on: October 03, 2019, 04:31:34 PM »
Board is a Blue Planet NP10 nose rider with Futures F6 quad fins, QD2 3.75's in the trailing slots.

As always, I enjoy watching your videos. And I really like the technical "details" above which you provide.

Thanks for sharing your videos.
Blue Planet Duke: 10'5" x 32" x 4.5" @ 190 Liters (2 Dukes)
Sup Sports Hammer: 8'11" x 31" x 4" @ 140 Liters
SUP Sports One World: 11'1" x 30" x 4.5" @ 173 Liters
CJ Nelson Parallax: 9'3" x 23 1/2" x 3 3/16" @ 78.8 Liters (prone surfing longboard; Thunderbolt Technologies build in Red construction)

OkiWild

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Re: Some Backside before Breakfast
« Reply #3 on: October 03, 2019, 04:42:02 PM »

Interesting about your slump.... I experienced the exact same thing for the past year in certain conditions.
I scoured my vides looking for clues, but could only see the fails... not the reasons.

That issue has been solved in spades... but I'll post a thread about how I solved it.  ;D ;D

Thanks Creek! Can't wait to read about solving your slump.



FRP

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Re: Some Backside before Breakfast
« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2019, 10:09:59 PM »
Oki,

That is some of the best nose cam footage I have watched. Well done! Even the linear mode at the end was interesting. With the angle of the sun from behind very cool effect. Thanks.

Bob

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eastbound

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Re: Some Backside before Breakfast
« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2019, 06:33:25 AM »
you are a badass, oki---and you are getting serious rewards for that--great vid--thx

but pls take good care with your leashes!!

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OkiWild

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Re: Some Backside before Breakfast
« Reply #6 on: October 05, 2019, 11:13:14 PM »
Oki,

That is some of the best nose cam footage I have watched. Well done! Even the linear mode at the end was interesting. With the angle of the sun from behind very cool effect. Thanks.

Bob

Thanks!


you are a badass, oki---and you are getting serious rewards for that--great vid--thx

but pls take good care with your leashes!!



Thanks! I'm pretty crazy about leash inspection and maintenance. I do quite a bit of remote kayak and canoe stuff, and take very seriously the equipment that your life depends on. I can easily swim a mile in rough conditions, but even then I wear an impact vest for flotation when off shore.

I spent the last 12 years pretty much surfing by myself, and another great thing that came with SUP, is great friends who enjoy the same things, have time, and it's now rare that I go alone :-)

TallDude

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Re: Some Backside before Breakfast
« Reply #7 on: October 06, 2019, 09:24:45 AM »
Good stuff Oki. We just had a swell roll through. The lefts were way faster and didn't close out. It was good to just go backside for a whole session. I'm still getting used to my new board, so it was nice to work out my foot work going backside over and over. It must be nice not having to deal with Gale Force winds and paddling into waves from your knees? Thanks for sharing the stoke as always. As for the slump, a new shorter but wider tail board might be the ticket my friend.  ;)
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OkiWild

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Re: Some Backside before Breakfast
« Reply #8 on: October 06, 2019, 07:30:09 PM »
Board is a Blue Planet NP10 nose rider with Futures F6 quad fins, QD2 3.75's in the trailing slots.

As always, I enjoy watching your videos. And I really like the technical "details" above which you provide.

Thanks for sharing your videos.

Thanks. I think it makes it a little more interesting than just some guy riding waves.

Good stuff Oki. We just had a swell roll through. The lefts were way faster and didn't close out. It was good to just go backside for a whole session. I'm still getting used to my new board, so it was nice to work out my foot work going backside over and over. It must be nice not having to deal with Gale Force winds and paddling into waves from your knees? Thanks for sharing the stoke as always. As for the slump, a new shorter but wider tail board might be the ticket my friend.  ;)

Thanks TD. I'm getting two new boards in December, and a shorter and wider one for the choppy days is definitely on the radar.

 


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