Author Topic: Wing specific boards  (Read 31202 times)

supmmmm

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Re: Wing specific boards
« Reply #75 on: February 05, 2020, 11:42:46 AM »
Good instructional 'get up' video with interesting offset foot positioning - thanks for posting Dave.   

Jim

Have u noticed Derek Hama’s foot position. Looks like his offset is at rear foot and front foot is over the Center of board.

JEG

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Re: Wing specific boards
« Reply #76 on: February 05, 2020, 12:23:50 PM »
great vid obxDave and like seeing people like you showing us how to knee start  8)

obxDave

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Re: Wing specific boards
« Reply #77 on: February 05, 2020, 10:33:42 PM »
great vid obxDave and like seeing people like you showing us how to knee start  8)

So with my Hero 7 mounted on the back of the Duotone boom you don’t really get to see what I think is the harder part of the knee start. By the time the wing comes out of the water and the camera sees anything I’m already up on my knees and flying the wing with forward momentum on a broad reach. From that point standing up and getting onto foil is pretty easy (with enough wind!)

The harder part you don’t see:..... you are in the water and have to get wingding and board in the right position relative to the wind, then slide onto the board prone style while holding the wing, and using both hands to pull yourself onto the board. Pretty awkward to do while holding the wing front grab handle in the “downwind” hand. Once lying on the board the wind will tend to quickly want to point you directly downwind. Next I use my hands holding the outside rails to push up on all fours (hands and knees). If your not balanced just right on a small board when you push up, you’ll just tip over into the water backwards, sideways, even forwards, depending on your “push-up” start position.

Once up on all fours and balanced pointing downwind, I quickly let go of the board with my hands and fly the wing. The “free” hand that isn’t on the front grab handle has to quickly grab the boom (or rear handle) to sheet the wing in. By sheeting in quickly you gain forward momentum on the board and can quickly turn the board back to a broad reach sailing sideways to the wind on your knees. Once sailing on a reach on your knees it gets way easier and standing up is really the easiest part of the whole routine.

On a smaller board it all gets a bit more challenging. On my new smaller board I balance myself a wee bit farther back on the board so that when I’m knee sailing the front of the board is riding higher in the water.

Note that on small volume boards some riders will straddle sit on the board like sitting on a prone surfboard and transition to a knee position from there. There is no way my bad knees would handle that! So the very unglamorous technique I describe is what works for me. Maybe I’ll try a different camera position on the board to show everything I’m describing.


obxDave

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Re: Wing specific boards
« Reply #78 on: February 05, 2020, 10:56:53 PM »
Good instructional 'get up' video with interesting offset foot positioning - thanks for posting Dave.   

Jim

Have u noticed Derek Hama’s foot position. Looks like his offset is at rear foot and front foot is over the Center of board.

Probably a bit deceiving. You can’t have one foot on centerline and the other off it unless you want to start turning, or something else (like pull from the wingding) is counterbalancing. I offset to have easy carving control. I don’t think about it too much, it’s just where my feet want go. :P

Dwight (DW)

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Re: Wing specific boards
« Reply #79 on: February 06, 2020, 04:00:42 AM »
Good description of the struggle to mount to the board obxDave.

Just the other day, Dave (the other Dave) and I were laughing about how pathetic we both feel going through this board mounting process. Neither of us can stand if we sail along on our knees for more than a few seconds. Our joints hurt so bad, we become stiff and can’t move. We’re just better off going for the standup move right away. Sucks getting old.

PonoBill

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Re: Wing specific boards
« Reply #80 on: February 06, 2020, 10:16:31 AM »
Good description of the struggle to mount to the board obxDave.

Just the other day, Dave (the other Dave) and I were laughing about how pathetic we both feel going through this board mounting process. Neither of us can stand if we sail along on our knees for more than a few seconds. Our joints hurt so bad, we become stiff and can’t move. We’re just better off going for the standup move right away. Sucks getting old.

Me too. Also true for foil surfing. Paddling out at Ka'a is a long haul, and it's nice to not have to stand the whole way if it's choppy. Kathy Shipman has both the flexibility and balance to sit on her board and paddle out, and somehow come to her feet from that position without a walker frame, which is what I'd need. I hate seeing her do that--pure envy. If I stay on my knees for any length of time I will almost invariably pitch off the damned thing when I stand. Any time I don't is a victory for PT and stretching.

I do have a tip for the geezer get up though. Once you get your front and back legs in position and are ready to toss yourself into the drink, tighten your core, especially on the back leg side. It makes tottering to my feet at least 50% easier, and when I remember to do it my success rate skyrockets from 10 percent to 20 percent.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

Wetstuff

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Re: Wing specific boards
« Reply #81 on: February 06, 2020, 01:16:47 PM »
"my success rate skyrockets from 10 percent to 20 percent" ...well put, Bill.   I sorta feel as if I arrived at a sorority house party at 3 am.  Everybody else is hooked up?!   I thoroughly hope to make that 20% this coming season.  Press on.

Jim
Atlantis Mistress .. Blue Planet MultiTasker ..   Atlantis Venom

Dwight (DW)

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Re: Wing specific boards
« Reply #82 on: February 06, 2020, 02:57:29 PM »

I do have a tip for the geezer get up though.....tighten your core...

You mean you don’t just grunt real hard and try not to crap your pants? I know I’m going to someday soon.

PonoBill

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Re: Wing specific boards
« Reply #83 on: February 06, 2020, 08:02:20 PM »
Tighten your core is the opposite of that, and hopefully prevents part 2 or maybe that's number 2.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

Rastaman3030

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Re: Wing specific boards
« Reply #84 on: February 22, 2020, 07:53:45 AM »
Does anyone have any experience or input on the 2020 Naish Hover 95 for Winging? It's 5'7 x 27 and 95 liters. I'm looking to downsize my current winging board, which is a 7'10 x 30" x 138 liters (Takuma BX Hybrid). I weigh about 165lbs.

https://www.naishsurfing.com/product/hover-sup-foil-carbon-ultra/

Dwight (DW)

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Re: Wing specific boards
« Reply #85 on: February 22, 2020, 08:46:57 AM »
Does anyone have any experience or input on the 2020 Naish Hover 95 for Winging? It's 5'7 x 27 and 95 liters. I'm looking to downsize my current winging board, which is a 7'10 x 30" x 138 liters (Takuma BX Hybrid). I weigh about 165lbs.

https://www.naishsurfing.com/product/hover-sup-foil-carbon-ultra/

It would be a massive improvement. Do it  ;D

Admin

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Re: Wing specific boards
« Reply #86 on: March 11, 2020, 01:46:31 AM »
Do you guys think that the super beveled tails have any real benefit on a wing board or are they just a carry over from SUP foil boards?

soepkip

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Re: Wing specific boards
« Reply #87 on: March 11, 2020, 04:18:26 AM »
I think super bevelled tails help a lot to pump the board in low wind.
When there is plenty of wind  you don't need them, a board with no tail rocker might even be easier to get flying.

I have two custom boards in the works, both with a super bevelled tail=a lot of rocker after the tracks , but I will use these boards for sup foiling as well.


Dwight (DW)

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Re: Wing specific boards
« Reply #88 on: March 11, 2020, 04:51:57 AM »
Let’s get into bottom shape theory and you decide. There are two main principles or types.

1) Steep bevel chines to avoid rail contact in turns, then some kind of carryover bottom from the surfing world. Concave usually. The early Kalama had that style chine and it seems the whole industry copied it. Kalama moved away from that. During his podcast appearance he explains why.

2) Shallow long chines to reduce the bottom contact patch and create what is basically a displacement hull bottom. I credit Takuma for being the first to use this “on a SUP”. It has been in use on kite foil race boards for years, but for different reasons. Kiters do that chine to reduce rail touches when heeled over racing. Kalama uses this style today. So do I.

Kalama did some testing and found the type 2 chine would unstick from the water better. I was already riding that bottom shape with a kite and knew it was the least sticky, and least draggy, when my kiteboard would constantly kiss the water during my kook stage learning transitions.

Next I think it comes down to what you think helps YOU more. The type one with a planning bottom or the type 2 that unsticks better. I personally never plane up. I can pump it into the air near instantly. So unstick is king for me. While others, might just stand there and wait to plane, then fly. That person is a type 1 user.

Tail treatment is a whole new topic. You can view the tail chine with the same principles of the rail. Unstick in the same way. Or you can treat it with planning in mind, and go for a sharp edge somewhere.
« Last Edit: March 11, 2020, 04:54:37 AM by Dwight (DW) »

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Re: Wing specific boards
« Reply #89 on: March 11, 2020, 09:08:40 AM »
I ask because I had the opportunity to try a friend's board with a beveled tail (relatively long bevel) and it made me think.  The problem was that even though there was substantial area behind the track (wider and longer back there than I am used to) it lacked the stability that its length and width would have seemed to allow.  It wanted to rock or fall back onto that bevel rather than getting support from it.  This was mostly noticeable when on the knees.  In this new sport the board is really not doing all that much.  We need to be able to kneel comfortably and it can make it as easy as possible to get to our feet.  I am wondering if a lot of the bevel is counterproductive for us and if it is just excess that could either be trimmed or if that width (or part of it) could be used better as "full contact, full support" bottom.
« Last Edit: March 11, 2020, 09:10:15 AM by Admin »

 


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