Author Topic: Time to get out and back to line-up  (Read 855 times)

Paddle On

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Time to get out and back to line-up
« on: July 07, 2019, 05:52:20 PM »
I work, and thus when on the water I milk every bit of each wave to the bitter end. All of the cool people catch a wave and then do a quick turn when the 1st section finishes, remain standing and head back out to the line-up. Any general rules for when to bail?

Also, since I am goofy and live in California I surf back side 92% of the time and find it much harder to turn back out on backside than frontside.
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Badger

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Re: Time to get out and back to line-up
« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2019, 06:58:12 PM »
Backside 92% of the time? Are there no lefts in California?   :o

I always pull out rather than ride the whitewater. Riding the whitewater is not surfing. The only time I do it is when heading in to shore. I pull out the moment the wave looks like it's going to break in front of me. If it's a close out beach break, this can make for some very short rides but it's better than getting caught in the whitewater. I hate beach breaks for this reason.

I'm goofy and my home break is a left, so I rarely ride back side. It's something I need to work on. Since getting my new 10'6, my rights have improved dramatically. I've been riding shorter boards for five years and this bigger board is really helping to improve my technique.

« Last Edit: July 07, 2019, 07:06:56 PM by Badger »
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OkiWild

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Re: Time to get out and back to line-up
« Reply #2 on: July 07, 2019, 07:02:44 PM »
Don't worry about what the cool kids are doing. Do what makes you happiest.

If it's bumpin' and I don't feel like paddling back out through breaking waves, kick out before it closes out. If it's small and clean, I'll ride it until it dumps me. Changes with conditions.

Back-side kick out is just like a front side cut-back, except going up hill. So you need to have enough speed to do it, because the board is going to stall easier. If fast enough, I put the paddle behind me, and lean into it like a bottom turn that doesn't end; just up and over. If slower, I'll pivot off the tail, and use a sweep stroke to turn the board harder. Trick is to end in a neutral balance position, which takes lots of practice.

Paddle On

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Re: Time to get out and back to line-up
« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2019, 08:07:56 PM »
There are only a few lefts here in Nor-cal (that are not beach break) and these only break with a specific swell.

Speed, I am guessing that is the first component I am lacking for a kick out. I have been trying to perform a pivot turn from a standstill. I think it is time to start.

Thanks
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TallDude

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Re: Time to get out and back to line-up
« Reply #4 on: July 07, 2019, 08:50:27 PM »
Backside kick outs do feel awkward to me as well, but it's really just a mental thing. Even though it feels awkward I always make it. If I feel I can't make it, I'll bury my paddle down the face and cut back. If I feel I'm far enough up the face to make it, I'll bury my paddle across my front hip and brace hard (or brake hard) with it. I rarely kick out backside with any speed. It definitely feels less natural to me. SoCalSupper's wife just switched foot every time because she didn't like going backside :D

If it does close out on you, here's an old thread that shows you how to deal with it. https://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,32358.msg362562/topicseen.html#msg362562

surfcowboy

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Re: Time to get out and back to line-up
« Reply #5 on: July 07, 2019, 09:12:50 PM »
I’m goofy and yes, in the LA area, there’s only one left point really.

The key for me is really stepping on that back foot. Watch old footage of Dora at Malibu. When he hits the brakes and swings the board it’s mind blowing.

Bean

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Re: Time to get out and back to line-up
« Reply #6 on: July 08, 2019, 03:11:56 AM »
Yes, step back for sure, but also shift your back foot more to the heel side of the stringer.  A slight shift makes a big difference here and for any heel side turns on a wider board (most SUPs we ride).

supthecreek

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Re: Time to get out and back to line-up
« Reply #7 on: July 08, 2019, 04:49:55 AM »
As Gerry Lopez says.... "No need to surf it all the way to the end"

It is easier to go over the back of a wave that is not about to break, so you can carry some speed into your paddle back out.

When I decide to exit:
I do a small turn down the wave to maximize speed
shift both feet to the inside rail to start the carve
drive a "shallow" turn off the shoulder... on an angle that carries speed off the back
as I go over the back of the wave:
I bring my paddle forward to take a strong stoke as I go over the wave
This shifts my weight forward, to get back into trim
I continue to stroke hard, aiming wide of the next wave.

My first goal is to stay clear of people surfing in.....
Secondary is to get over the next wave before it breaks.

It takes practice, but feels awesome when you get it wired.
I feel that surfing backside on a SUP is more natural, because our heels easily apply weight to the rail of our relatively bigger boards.

Hopefully you can see this collage, if not viewing on a desktop
(hint: click on the picture to enlarge it!)


supsean

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Re: Time to get out and back to line-up
« Reply #8 on: July 08, 2019, 07:26:37 AM »
As Gerry Lopez says.... "No need to surf it all the way to the end"

It is easier to go over the back of a wave that is not about to break, so you can carry some speed into your paddle back out.

When I decide to exit:
I do a small turn down the wave to maximize speed
shift both feet to the inside rail to start the carve
drive a "shallow" turn off the shoulder... on an angle that carries speed off the back
as I go over the back of the wave:
I bring my paddle forward to take a strong stoke as I go over the wave
This shifts my weight forward, to get back into trim
I continue to stroke hard, aiming wide of the next wave.

My first goal is to stay clear of people surfing in.....
Secondary is to get over the next wave before it breaks.

It takes practice, but feels awesome when you get it wired.
I feel that surfing backside on a SUP is more natural, because our heels easily apply weight to the rail of our relatively bigger boards.

Hopefully you can see this collage, if not viewing on a desktop
(hint: click on the picture to enlarge it!)

love that collage--really helpful. Interesting to hear that you like surfing backside. In Queens, backside is the only side I get mostly. but front still feels more natural, at least in the small waves where I need to pump more.
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southwesterly

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Re: Time to get out and back to line-up
« Reply #9 on: July 08, 2019, 02:58:41 PM »
 One of the few left point breaks near Santa Cruz with the right direction swell.
« Last Edit: July 08, 2019, 03:02:38 PM by southwesterly »

SanoSlatchSup

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Re: Time to get out and back to line-up
« Reply #10 on: July 08, 2019, 03:08:36 PM »
Oh my, now that is "pretty as a picture"...which I guess it is.  :)
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PonoBill

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Re: Time to get out and back to line-up
« Reply #11 on: July 08, 2019, 06:11:35 PM »
Since I'm pretty much 100 percent foiling these days it's a lot easier to leave early. If you milk all that a good wave can give you on a foil it's a half-hour to get back to the lineup. My hard turns still suck, so milking a wave means turning once and then doing cheap little wiggle waggles up the face and winding up a LONG way from where you started, not only to the inside but also to the right (usually, for me). Discipline is easily learned in that situation since the alternative is an endless trek. What makes it especially effective for the carrot/stick equation is the relative speed of being in a wave and paddling. 15 mph in the wave, 2-3 mph paddling. No glide. A two-minute ride means fifteen minutes paddling back--if all goes well.

I can't remember how many paddles I've broken doing a backside kick out. I do them like a cutback, with the paddle buried behind me, and when I fall, I fall on the paddle and turn it into a two piece. The solution: Don't fall. I'm working on that.
« Last Edit: July 08, 2019, 06:15:15 PM by PonoBill »
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Rider

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Re: Time to get out and back to line-up
« Reply #12 on: July 08, 2019, 07:19:59 PM »
Hi Pono....I saw that wave you took yesterday. WOW.  I couldn’t believe you took it all the way. Long paddle back but worth it... 8)

Paddle On

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Re: Time to get out and back to line-up
« Reply #13 on: July 10, 2019, 11:52:10 AM »
I for sure have not been placing both feet on the inside rail or even heavily biasing my back one.

Thanks for tip!
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