Author Topic: Getting Shacked  (Read 904 times)

OkiWild

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Getting Shacked
« on: May 22, 2019, 12:12:01 AM »
...and what to do with the stupid paddle...LOL

So I've been at this SUP thing since August before last (lifetime surfer), and finally feeling confident enough to paddle into the bowl or peak in larger surf. The way the water moves across the reef on an approaching set makes it really difficult and intimidating when standing and stroking into a wave, but we're finally getting there. Our surf here is primarily shallow reef, and drains and slabs when it starts getting bigger.

This last weekend it was around double overhead on the sets, but really draining and sketchy, so I stuck with the just-overhead to head-and-a-half waves. Pulled up into the barrel three times, two of which I got blasted. Front-side, goofy-foot. In video, I find that I normally ride in a steep section with the paddle in front, lightly slicing in the wave face. The two bad ones I found that the paddle would get pulled back and up, rotating my upper body from squared-up, back to facing the wave. This, of course makes the board turn up the wave, and it goes quickly "up hill" from there. The one where I made it, I accidentally had the paddle on the outside in one hand, and my left hand on the wave face.

So I got to thinking... What do most people do with the paddle? The only real reference I see on Youtube is Jess Leedy. He seems to hold it on the outside in one hand, but man that seems like a vulnerable position where the wave can really get at it, and you're almost certain to land on it.

All tips and tricks much appreciated. Typhoon season is coming!   

Badger

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Re: Getting Shacked
« Reply #1 on: May 22, 2019, 12:58:04 AM »
It bothers me to see someone holding the paddle in one hand while surfing. It looks dorky.

I never worry about falling on the paddle but I suppose it could happen. I remember when I started surfing, I was always falling on the board and getting hit by it in the whitewater. Now I am conscious of where the board is at all times and automatically know to fall away from it. It's the same with the paddle. After a while, it becomes automatic how you fall with it. I think there are too many variations to actually apply a technique to it.

Are you still surfing that downwind board or did you finally get a dedicated surf SUP?
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OkiWild

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Re: Getting Shacked
« Reply #2 on: May 22, 2019, 01:48:44 AM »
I've learned how to fall with the paddle, and it's almost never an issue. I did snap a paddle last year when I got pitched forward going back side. For some reason, on that wave I just entered with the paddle out in front of me and didn't angle it enough, and the blade/shaft junction area of the blade gave out. I also bought better paddles after that.

When I'm talking about landing on the paddle wrong, I'm talking about riding front side and holding the paddle on your back side with my right hand (goofy). If you get flipped or thrown out in front of the wave, the paddle is behind you and you have less control over where it goes. I agree about holding the paddle in one hand while surfing, but in confined spaces might be a different story.

I have 8 SUP's now.  Three "performance" surf boards that range  8'2"x28"x100L to 8'10"x28"x116L, two performance long boards  9'x28"x116L and 10'x28"x127L, one 10'x31xwho knows barge, and two race boards.


OkiWild

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Re: Getting Shacked
« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2019, 02:08:40 AM »
Short clip from a while ago showing exactly what I'm talking about. Not quite a cover up, just under the hook, but slowed down, the paddle and shoulders tell the tale. I like holding the paddle in both hands, but it seems impossible to keep the body in a good position.


surfinJ

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Re: Getting Shacked
« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2019, 02:40:07 AM »
I have found that pulling in to tight sections that bowl and pitch, the paddle becomes useless and ends up in my outside hand, about mid paddle.
This seems like the best spot.

Trying to keep the paddle in two hands just doesn't feel right in the tight space.
And it has hung me up into a wipeout getting caught somewhere.

eastbound

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Re: Getting Shacked
« Reply #5 on: May 22, 2019, 03:12:52 AM »
front side, back hand in wave, front hand holds paddle at handle

back side, front hand holds paddle at handle, back hand holds rail
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surfinJ

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Re: Getting Shacked
« Reply #6 on: May 22, 2019, 08:14:55 AM »
back side, front hand holds paddle at handle, back hand holds rail

Yea, Iíve ended up like this too. Again, holding paddle in one hand.

PonoBill

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Re: Getting Shacked
« Reply #7 on: May 22, 2019, 10:51:24 AM »
I generally ride mushburgers, but on the rare occasion when I'm in a pitching wave breaking top to bottom I hold to paddle in close, on the wave side, with my top hand way out front, so I can touch the wave if I want, and my bottom hand at or behind my thigh so the blade stays out of the way, behind me and generally on the inside (depending on what I'm doing with my front hand). 

I've done the thing you were doing--pulling the blade forward and running it along the face--but there's three problems with that. It moves me too far away from the wave, pushes me off balance to the outside of the board, and it's too coarse of a drag. The blade is just too powerful, even just skimming the edge. I found it was pushing me off balance on the outside, which means if you fall, you go off the high side. I like to lean into the wave and let the board angle manage speed. If I want to try to slow down and get shacked (unlikely in Maui except at Maalea) I touch the wave with my front hand and the paddle handle, keeping my lower hand close to my thigh. That has the added benefit of keeping the blade well away from the face. If the blade gets grabbed it's over.
« Last Edit: May 22, 2019, 10:53:34 AM by PonoBill »
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supsean

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Re: Getting Shacked
« Reply #8 on: May 22, 2019, 02:24:19 PM »
will probably never get shacked, but here are some videos of guys who do...



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OkiWild

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Re: Getting Shacked
« Reply #9 on: May 22, 2019, 05:21:37 PM »
I generally ride mushburgers, but on the rare occasion when I'm in a pitching wave breaking top to bottom I hold to paddle in close, on the wave side, with my top hand way out front, so I can touch the wave if I want, and my bottom hand at or behind my thigh so the blade stays out of the way, behind me and generally on the inside (depending on what I'm doing with my front hand). 

I've done the thing you were doing--pulling the blade forward and running it along the face--but there's three problems with that. It moves me too far away from the wave, pushes me off balance to the outside of the board, and it's too coarse of a drag. The blade is just too powerful, even just skimming the edge. I found it was pushing me off balance on the outside, which means if you fall, you go off the high side. I like to lean into the wave and let the board angle manage speed. If I want to try to slow down and get shacked (unlikely in Maui except at Maalea) I touch the wave with my front hand and the paddle handle, keeping my lower hand close to my thigh. That has the added benefit of keeping the blade well away from the face. If the blade gets grabbed it's over.


I've always leaned into the wave, as well, usually with my rear hand dragging. If it's tight, I'll grab the outside rail with the other hand. It's made the whole "what to do with the paddle" thing a big hump to get over. I've had to relearn so many things. Got back on a short board the other day for the first time in two years, and it was pretty funny for the first five waves.


Anyway, I've seen the videos of what the pro's do. Everyone has a different style, and switch it up, but they're pro's... I was really interested in what "normal" people are doing, and there are some good tips here. Thanks for that.

Everyone always said "SUP surfing is easy." Well, maybe if it's waist-high on a barge, it might be easier to start than a short board. But I was on a short board for 38 years before standing on a SUP for the first time, and I'm telling you It ain't easy. It has completely different dynamics that I'm having to relearn, but having the time of my life while doing it.

Thanks

PonoBill

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Re: Getting Shacked
« Reply #10 on: May 22, 2019, 11:03:54 PM »
I've never been a shortboarder, just longboards and windsurfing, but I never thought SUP was easy. I just know it's something I can do with limited flexibility. I always thought it was harder than longboards. But I didn't have to spend three nights sleeping in a chair if I spend a day doing SUP.
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supsean

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Re: Getting Shacked
« Reply #11 on: May 23, 2019, 08:44:30 AM »
a
« Last Edit: May 23, 2019, 09:08:14 AM by supsean »
Fanatic Allwave 8'9"
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