Author Topic: Dynamics of catching a wave  (Read 3216 times)

WindJunkie

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Re: Dynamics of catching a wave
« Reply #15 on: May 16, 2019, 01:15:24 AM »
I'm 190.  Squared off is when your chest is facing towards the nose of the board.  I used to tell myself to put the paddle perpendicular to the board across the nose rather than parallel.

Beasho

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Re: Dynamics of catching a wave
« Reply #16 on: May 16, 2019, 06:40:46 AM »
The reason for all this over analyzing is Iím struggling with getting on the foil. Iím on a board thatís a little small for me. Iíve been trying to catch small waves just as they are about to break. Sometimes, I just keep the board on the water until the wave quickly dies out but other times if I lean back a little, the foil will pop up and Iím unable to push it back down...it just seems to keep going up and I fall off the back. I donít think Iím standing too far back on the board, itís actually the opposite as the board is so short, if I have my back foot on the mast, Iíll usually lose my balance and fall.

Any thoughts or advice?

A few questions: 

1) How many sessions have you had?

2) How short is your board and what volume is it?

Sam Pae video here:


SUPdad

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Re: Dynamics of catching a wave
« Reply #17 on: May 16, 2019, 10:36:55 AM »
It's really not about the board, though you definitely want something you can stand on without paying too much attention to it. Little Fugly has kind of a sinker nose, so I needed to learn a different way to catch waves, and in the process I relearned that getting up consistently on a foil is body position and timing. End of story.

When you are starting out, the easiest way to get up is whitewater--the fresher the better. Find the spot where the waves are breaking consistently, move ten feet closer in. Stand with your front foot where it belongs, facing forward. Your back foot can be a reasonably close to the front foot is you like, but as soon as you get moving fast it needs to be on top of the mast. Push your hips forward, weight on your front leg, head up, knees bent, shoulder square across the board. Stroke hard, then brace to handle the turbulence of the whitewater. Once the whitewater catches you and you are moving out of the turbulence, lift your front foot and then plant it right back down. Don't lean back, don't change your position or your weighting, just lift the foot, then put it back down before you feel the board lift.

Ah, maybe I've been making it harder on myself than necessary!  I've been trying to stand in a full surf stance, both feet facing mostly to the side when paddling for a wave.  I have not tried to catch whitewash though.  I just watched the video Beasho posted and it seems standing like Sam is would make it easier.  I'll give it a try. 

The additional problem with the short board is front/back balance issues.  The foil does make it much easier side to side, but the front/back gets me more often.

Beasho,
The board is 6'0" x 28" wide, volume is not known but maybe around 110 liters at most?  I'm about 185-190 lbs and the board floats me, with maybe 1/2-1" above the water.  I've taken it out 7 times now.  The first 2-3 times, I could see some progression while learning to balance, paddle, etc.  The last few times have been zero progression, as I perceive it anyway.  I'm still a little wobbly, have a hard time catching waves, usually do the same thing if I catch one (pop up and fall off the back).  I spot I go out at probably not the best spot to learn but it's where I like to surf and it's usually not crowded at all.

JEG

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Re: Dynamics of catching a wave
« Reply #18 on: May 16, 2019, 02:41:58 PM »
for me and from what I've seen, if you can't stand properly on the board, you'll miss all the bumps/waves because of imbalance and on a learning curve and fall and fall a lot  ;D

SUPdad

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Re: Dynamics of catching a wave
« Reply #19 on: May 16, 2019, 03:19:54 PM »
for me and from what I've seen, if you can't stand properly on the board, you'll miss all the bumps/waves because of imbalance and on a learning curve and fall and fall a lot  ;D

Yes, that appears to be very true from my experiences. :o I think, on average, I fall at least 20-30 times over an 1-1/2 to 2 hour session. I paddle for and attempt to catch around the same number of waves. But usually only manage to catch one or two. Slow learning process.

PonoBill

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Re: Dynamics of catching a wave
« Reply #20 on: May 16, 2019, 05:44:51 PM »
Sam's video is pure gold. I've probably watched it fifty times. Whenever I start having a problem I ask the other foilers for coaching to get past whatever I'm stuck on, but then I go watch Sam's video and sure enough, the answer is in there.
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clay

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Re: Dynamics of catching a wave
« Reply #21 on: May 17, 2019, 01:01:35 PM »
Hi,

In my extremely biased and unhumble opinion that board is way to small for you, and pretty much anyone to learn on.

The 2 benefits of a small board are high performance turns and pumping back out, I suspect it's safe to assume beginners are not doing either of these.

A 7'6" dedicated foil board is a good size to start on.  Might outgrow it in a few months or a year or more, and then when you get good enough to foil in head high plus waves you can dust off this board and have enough paddling power to catch bigger waves.

Also I believe a stable foil is the best way to shorten the learning curve.
Aloha, I welcome and appreciate all responses of positivity and good feeling.

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SUPdad

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Re: Dynamics of catching a wave
« Reply #22 on: May 18, 2019, 02:08:22 AM »
Thanks, guys...appreciate the assistance.  Being stubborn, :o I donít want to deal with yet another huge board so have a 6í11Ē on order...should be here very soon. I think it will be enough for me to learn on. It has almost as much volume as my big standup. Will see how it goes.

flkiter

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Re: Dynamics of catching a wave
« Reply #23 on: May 18, 2019, 10:43:17 AM »
Your set up sounds right but maybe the foil is too far forward. Some boards like it more forward and others further back. If it's lifting you too much when you come up and if hard to push down to pump then the foil is too far forward. Foil placement to me is the biggest part of catching waves in the beginning.

Beasho

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Re: Dynamics of catching a wave
« Reply #24 on: May 18, 2019, 11:53:36 AM »
No No No!

Clay is right.  If you have solid SUP skills meaning you have been SUP'ing for 2+ years, know how to paddle and takeoff aggressively in waves from 2 to 8 feet with a lineup of regular surfers then you are ready to try foiling.

If you are going to start on the SUP it should be a 7' 6" X 30" board.  NOT shorter.

I have 250 sessions on a foil and have foiled in everything from 2 to 18 feet and just got on a 6' 2" board for the first time last week.  I struggled.  It was like starting over.

Trying to learn on a 6' board would be like trying to learn windsurfing on a sinker.  No-way.  Unless you want to start prone then I can not comment.

SUPdad

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Re: Dynamics of catching a wave
« Reply #25 on: May 18, 2019, 09:50:31 PM »
Iíve been on a standup exclusively for around 5 years (previously on a longboard for many years). I have no issues surfing around others  but wonít go out when itís over about 4í or so. Trying to get out over whitewash thatís taller than me is no fun.

The board is here and will pick it up tomorrow. So itís too late now. :o I think Iíll be okay. Based on what little Iíve learned so far, Iím pretty sure I can catch enough waves on it to figure out the foil. Just wish summer wasnít here as smaller waves would make it easier. Itís the figuring out the foil part that Iím worried about.

flkiter

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Re: Dynamics of catching a wave
« Reply #26 on: May 19, 2019, 05:44:57 AM »
Hey supdad I've changed boards a lot and found that when I get a new board. Get used to how the board drops into the waves. Get your stance right and then adjust the foil forward or back to accommodate your stance. Different foils and sized wings will usually sit differently on the board. If you're lifting easily but hard to push down the nose and tend rise up out of the wave, then move the foil back a little. If it's hard to get on foil without taking a big step back, then move the foil forward. On the smaller boards, you really shouldn't have to move around much like you would on a long board or big sup. Keep in mind a lot of guys ride straps so they adjust the foil position since their stance is always the same.

PonoBill

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Re: Dynamics of catching a wave
« Reply #27 on: May 19, 2019, 07:06:56 AM »
Yeah, you'll be fine, or at least you'll be a lot closer. Little Fugly (I need a better name, it's actually very good looking) is 6'11" X 30", I'm 230 with typical geezer balance issues. I do fine on it when it's not too choppy, and even if it's a choppy mess I can catch waves and foil with it. My only problem is that in messy conditions it gets my hip joints flared up. so Mr. Fugly at 7'2" X 33" gets the nod.
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SUPdad

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Re: Dynamics of catching a wave
« Reply #28 on: May 23, 2019, 05:28:25 PM »
Iím relieved to be able to say the 6í11Ē Flying V seems like it will work out for me. It has more volume and glide and noticeably easier to catch waves. Itís quite a bit more wobbly when paddling around though, especially if Iím not moving forward. I get tired a lot quicker even though Iím not falling off nearly as much. Still trying to figure out the foiling part. ;D


805StandUp

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Re: Dynamics of catching a wave
« Reply #29 on: May 23, 2019, 06:35:30 PM »
Iím relieved to be able to say the 6í11Ē Flying V seems like it will work out for me. It has more volume and glide and noticeably easier to catch waves. Itís quite a bit more wobbly when paddling around though, especially if Iím not moving forward. I get tired a lot quicker even though Iím not falling off nearly as much. Still trying to figure out the foiling part. ;D

Glad it is working out!  I downsized from my first 7'4 Hypernut to a similar dimension board to yours 6'0x28 and it is way more sensitive so I think you did the right thing.

 


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