Author Topic: Take a Kid SUP'ing  (Read 138230 times)

Beasho

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Re: Take a Kid SUP'ing
« Reply #30 on: October 30, 2021, 07:48:20 AM »
East Coast.  Weekend and no-one out!  Amazing.

Here was Ruby's friend Emma learning to catch a wave:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7R1ZQlxzlrY

This story just got richer.  2 years after her first wave Emma graduated from high school.  She had a rough year amongst Covid and home life so in short. . . . . we adopted her.
 
Emma is now taking a Gap year, got a job, is reapplying to college and I am teaching her to surf.  Here is the opener to the college essay:

“In the movie, Chasing Mavericks, the young Jay Moriarty aspires to surf the largest waves in the world.  He trains under local legend Frosty.  I have created my own version of Chasing Mavericks having moved in with the Chase family taking a gap year just 2 miles from the famous break. 

I have been learning to surf from my adopted host father.  He has taught me that big wave surfing requires three foundational pillars: proper positioning, wave selection and perfect paddle stroke.  Similar to life this combination of intelligence, initiative and grit are required to achieving goals.  Everybody wants to be seen taking the 50 foot drop but few talk about the preparation and training to get there.”
 

« Last Edit: October 30, 2021, 08:05:19 AM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: Take a Kid SUP'ing
« Reply #31 on: October 30, 2021, 07:54:23 AM »
Emma has fewer than 20 (TWENTY) total surfing sessions.  Her progress has been fast.  Ruby, my daughter, was the author of this script.

Ruby said "mom and dad you need to hear what is going on with Emma . . . " 1 week later Emma was on a plane to California from upstate NY.  3 weeks later and Ruby left on her own Gap year, a customized version a walkabout in the Indian Ocean.  BUT before Ruby left we went surfing at Mushroom rock.  This was Emma's 5th time ever surfing.

Ruby is on the Red board Emma on the Blue.  You'll hear Emma say "I almost got it!"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GLXD1iTFZk
« Last Edit: October 30, 2021, 08:15:01 AM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: Take a Kid SUP'ing
« Reply #32 on: October 30, 2021, 07:58:25 AM »
Session 10:

By this time Ruby had left the country.  I had articulated that surfing requires 4 primary skills (2 more come later).

1) Positioning on the Reef - Know where you watching the boils and by triangulating with near and distant objects on land
2) Wave Selection - Count the waves in the sets watch where the energy is concentrated and look for lines rather than peaks
3) Paddle Stroke - You need to go FAST never assume the wave will just take you and ALWAYS give 2 extra strokes just in case
4) The Drop - This is the reward for getting the 1st 3 things right

Haley Fiske is master of #1 at Mavericks.  Jeff Clark a savant at #2 and Kelly Slater has been touted as one of the best paddlers ever #3.  The drop comes easy after you master the first 3.   

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92H1Mx6FtB8
« Last Edit: October 30, 2021, 08:32:10 AM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: Take a Kid SUP'ing
« Reply #33 on: October 30, 2021, 07:59:10 AM »
Session 15:

I have introduced Emma to the local crew.  Jeff Clark, Haley Fiske, Josh, Morgan, Mose, Peter, Ion, Mark Alfaro and Kristi the Kayaker among others.

Kristi will text us when she is going to surf.  Kristi pinged us this week on a day I had to work.  I suggested that Emma should meet her at Mushroom.  It was a sizeable day, 8 feet @ 13 seconds, clean with NO wind.  Emma flinched and I said

"Today you have to go surf.  The conditions are nearly perfect.  I can not go with you all the time.  Kristi knows what she is doing and you can learn from her.  You need to practice.  You don't get to just play soccer on game day.  You need to go out and get bounced around, perfect your stroke, watch learn from other people."

Emma got on her surf bike and met Kristi at Mushroom.  Emma reported that it was beautiful a perfect 10 / 10 day on the water.  Here was a video shot by Bryan.  Successfully dropping in overhead waves.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saNf2-VmGN0   

« Last Edit: October 30, 2021, 08:32:26 AM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: Take a Kid SUP'ing
« Reply #34 on: October 30, 2021, 08:14:09 AM »
Session 20

This week has been BOOMING!  The buoys topped out 30 feet @ 18 seconds Monday morning.  And the buoys are never legitimately bigger than 20 feet.  But things change quickly.  The video above was from Wednesday, just 2 days later. 

The size had been dropping.  I had a quick window in the morning but then the Buoys jumped back up 15 feet @ 17 seconds. 

"Emma put on 2 vests and lets go check out Mavericks."
 
« Last Edit: October 30, 2021, 08:45:30 AM by Beasho »

sflinux

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Re: Take a Kid SUP'ing
« Reply #35 on: October 30, 2021, 08:22:07 AM »
Love it. 

I recently had a session where my equipment felt dialed in and all thanks pointed to "Beasho".
Beasho Inspired Gear choices:
-Oneil Gooru Impact Vest
-Supreme wetsuit
-Beasho designed Board Carrying Strap
-11'6" Jeff Clark SUP
-Body Glove PFD.

Thank you for all do.  You are my hero.
Quiver Shaped by: Joe Blair, Blane Chambers, Jimmy Lewis, Kirk McGinty, and Bob Pearson.
Me: 200#, 6'2"

Beasho

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Re: Take a Kid SUP'ing
« Reply #36 on: October 30, 2021, 09:24:51 AM »
Session 20
"Emma put on 2 vests and lets go check out Mavericks."
 

We got out with dry hair and were first to the Peak.  Then we were deeper than the pack, because the pack was 5 guys that were first timers and didn't know what they were doing.

Beasho

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Re: Take a Kid SUP'ing
« Reply #37 on: October 30, 2021, 09:26:23 AM »
Haley paddled out and started to conduct a big wave clinic.

Beasho

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Re: Take a Kid SUP'ing
« Reply #38 on: October 30, 2021, 09:27:36 AM »
And the verbal report: "The First Dry Hair Mavericks Experience"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XCj9Qf5C48

Beasho

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Re: Take a Kid SUP'ing
« Reply #39 on: October 30, 2021, 09:37:52 AM »
For the record Haley caught the longest, fastest wave in the world that morning.  Twice.

700+ yards @ 29 mph under his own power.  From the bowl past Mushroom Rock!

That is some sizzling bacon.

 


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