Author Topic: Foam repair/glue  (Read 2783 times)

Wetstuff

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Foam repair/glue
« on: May 06, 2019, 06:02:23 AM »
I saw this piece on one of my airplane magazines.  I knew about Gorilla glue but had not seen this trick.  Perhaps this is old news to shapers ...but, maybe not everybody.   (there are a couple of more pages of technical stuff - if anyone wants them)

Jim


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The Kernel

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Re: Foam repair/glue
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2019, 08:06:18 AM »
Always intriguing to see a technique from a different hobby and think how it could be applied to surfing world. 

When I first was introduced to 3M Microballoons, I was told by my local repair guy that it was used by the model/RC plane community.  Since he retired and I began fixing my own boards, I took his recommendation and now my M.O. is to mix Microballoons with epoxy to make a sandable paste for smoothing out work on boards.  Interesting to see that this article mentions a different type of spackle on this particular project.

If you can, please post the other pages.
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Bean

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Re: Foam repair/glue
« Reply #2 on: May 06, 2019, 08:18:10 AM »
Very cool, that's a new twist on GG applications for me.

Wetstuff

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Re: Foam repair/glue
« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2019, 01:45:34 PM »
Roger, Col. Rivera...  Your pages are attached.  'Warn you—these guys can get pretty deep in the weeds. Let me know if they will not reproduce well. Cheers.

Jim
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Beasho

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Re: Foam repair/glue
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2019, 02:11:23 PM »
Gorilla Glue is Much-Mo-Better!

STRETCH, William Riedel, turned me on to fixing Surfboards with Gorilla glue 15+ years ago.  Whether you are packing a ding, putting in a Tuttle box or fixing a snapped board there is nothing better. 

Epoxy with Microballoons is so last century (e.g. heavy, brittle, doesn't expand to fill voids and is the kiss of death if used to install a Tuttle box for a foil board).


surfcowboy

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Re: Foam repair/glue
« Reply #5 on: May 07, 2019, 01:33:10 AM »
This tip with the spackle solved the “bad to sand” issue with GG. Love it.

Thanks for this, what a great tip. I hate the idea of keeping a quart of pour foam around just to fix a ding or two a year. This is way better imho.

The Kernel

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Re: Foam repair/glue
« Reply #6 on: May 09, 2019, 10:06:54 PM »
Gorilla Glue is Much-Mo-Better!

STRETCH, William Riedel, turned me on to fixing Surfboards with Gorilla glue 15+ years ago.  Whether you are packing a ding, putting in a Tuttle box or fixing a snapped board there is nothing better. 

Epoxy with Microballoons is so last century (e.g. heavy, brittle, doesn't expand to fill voids and is the kiss of death if used to install a Tuttle box for a foil board).


I definitely agree about the wonders of Gorilla Glue...I've been shameless in using it to fill large voids (a.k.a. my shaping mistakes), set in carrying handles, and even glued a snapped prone longboard back together after I found it in the trash in Manhattan Beach.  After the Gorilla gluing the foam join, I glassed over the area and then smoothed out my hack glassing job with the Microballons/epoxy paste mix--kind of like spackling drywall.  If there's a better way to do THAT part, I'm game to hear it.   
« Last Edit: May 09, 2019, 10:21:39 PM by The Kernel »
Kernel:  Cutting through the bull**it.
"This is the kernel of the argument."

Over 50, but usually pushing it like I'm 25 and paying for it later.

8'2" + 9'2" T. Patterson / Rivieras
9'2" Riviera Nugg Turbo Carbon
10' Riviera Machete

eastbound

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Re: Foam repair/glue
« Reply #7 on: May 10, 2019, 02:43:08 AM »
gorilla glue for big voids---plumber's epoxy for small ones
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Ichabod Spoonbill

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Re: Foam repair/glue
« Reply #8 on: May 10, 2019, 05:50:45 AM »
I did a couple of repairs with epoxy and I wish I had used Gorilla Glue. The glue expands so much, but that's just what I needed to deal with the holes in the foam.
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blackeye

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Re: Foam repair/glue
« Reply #9 on: May 10, 2019, 10:52:59 AM »
I appreciate learning Vince Homer's techniques. I'm going to try out some mixes on my next ding. Before we jump to the conclusion as to what is best, a few comments...

1) His outstanding result of 10:5+flox looks like an outlier. The 10:1 to 10:5 range gg/spackle mixes came in a close grouping of strength, so I think the fibre made the difference. His earlier point was that more filla makes it easier to sand, so that might be the reason to pick one ratio over the next. I wish he labelled the weaker ones so we could understand the mix effect better.
2) The Y axis is not a useful visual for that variable, except to spread the results out. So don't anybody stress out over trying to understand its significance. I suppose it could be roughly interpreted as "Resistance to Sanding" for the GG mixes.
3) Homer used the term "flox". Aircraft Spruce says that is a mix of cotton flocking and epoxy to make a putty. I assume he used flocking and not flox, although adding a touch of epoxy would be interesting. Is epoxy and urethane glue compatible when wet? Don't try this at home until we know.

I had not heard before today that cotton flocking could be used like this. Is cotton fibre good in a marine environment?
Wouldn't milled glass or chopped carbon be better? I suppose anything sealed beneath glass and epoxy it should be OK. Even exposed glass fibres will wick water inwards. I also suppose that flocking is still easy to sand once cured in that matrix, likely more easily than glass or carbon.

For fun I looked up spackle's ingredients. Per wikipedia it is Gypsum (traditional) and glue (what glue?) or Cellulose (for modern non-shrink, non-crack). I would have thought cellulose would be a no-no around water too.

Based on what I learned here, for a marine environment maybe Gorilla Glue + cedar sawdust + a touch of water would work well for these applications. Mix it all up using the Beasho method, or fold in the sawdust after the Beasho mix.