Author Topic: Waterproofing track boxes, tuttle boxes, insert boxes, ect.???  (Read 1649 times)

clay

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I have heard and experienced cracks, leaks, separations, rip outs, and such of various boxes which then leads to taking in water and a heavier board which makes flying harder.

So I am wondering what's a good technique for building / repairing a track (fin) box or tuttle box or strap box or insert????  Specifically the outermost point of contact, either where our foils are in contact with the board or our feet are in contact with the board.  As in laying resin/fiberglass/carbon to the edge of a track box opening or over an insert box.  How to bond the glass to the plastic box?  And if the glass cracks or separates from the box how then to waterproof this?

My experience is that the traditional methods aren't strong or durable enough for the forces of foiling.

Anyone have any longer term experience with production foil boards and can testify to the board being more water tight than a custom?

Ideas?
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808sup

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Re: Waterproofing track boxes, tuttle boxes, insert boxes, ect.???
« Reply #1 on: April 23, 2019, 05:37:01 PM »
Here is how MR does it. No leaks in mine and about 11lbs. including deck pad.https://www.instagram.com/flyingdutchman808/p/Bmg2_OWAP8R/
Can’t seem to post the video but scroll through his posts and you’ll see it.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2019, 05:39:36 PM by 808sup »

808sup

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JEG

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Re: Waterproofing track boxes, tuttle boxes, insert boxes, ect.???
« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2019, 10:52:28 PM »
did I miss something because that doesn't look right 808sup and it looks like he just installed two fins box in parallel, instead of installing a dual dedicated foil track box?

sharksupper

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Re: Waterproofing track boxes, tuttle boxes, insert boxes, ect.???
« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2019, 01:55:20 AM »
Haven't had any leaks on my custom box install the way it was done:  https://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,33404.0.html

Usually the last piece to go in is the layer that covers over the box/insert and WELL into the surrounding skin.  Then you cut/drill back out the box/insert holes.  As long as the bond is good between that layer and the board skin it should be pretty waterproof.  I'd rough up the plastic of the box/insert really really coarse so it gets the best possible mechanical bond if it's not an epoxy friendly plastic.  You have to have a strategy to keep the epoxy out of the box/holes though.. wax or tape or something.  Acetone will remove any wax that got on bonding surfaces.

 


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