Author Topic: Point break love  (Read 2526 times)

surfinJ

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Point break love
« on: April 08, 2019, 04:59:10 PM »
So on what will most likely be my last visit here due impending retirement, I guess I got lucky. Thanks to Tom’s very cool site advice I was clearly able to judge where to find some of the NW swell that wasn’t getting blocked by the Channel Islands.

Ventura was getting some and you boys in San Diego definitely scored. But being on a mostly beachbreak diet at home I decided to immerse myself in the tasty little rock point 15 min from the hotel.

Special thanks to the Olympic board shop for the excellent rental. A Rawson 8-6x31
Impala SS. A slightly blown up version of the custom I have at home.

Two mornings spending the complete low to high tide cycle in the water. First day, Sunday was pretty crowded, but today was a charm. Even a bit alone in between the dawn patrollers and the morning crew.

The spot is, I think a no-go zone for sups judging by the WTF reaction from a few. One of these did point away when I made eye contact. But yea, I know from experience that if I don’t give them anything, they will most probably not say anything. And they didn’t. That meant staying the whole time the furthest inside taking only what got past and never getting in the way. Point break scraps are still choice morsels.

And for a short period alone and then with a couple of chill surfers this morning I got some great set waves.

PonoBill

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Re: Point break love
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2019, 06:11:20 PM »
And all the brethren say "amen". There's nothing like a good point or reef break, or maybe an outside sandbar at a minimum. I don't really "get" beach breaks. If that's all there was I'd probably just bodysurf. I always think of the wedge and the pointlessness of surfing it with a hardboard. Even a boogie board seems to deserve something longer.
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supthecreek

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Re: Point break love
« Reply #2 on: April 08, 2019, 09:01:55 PM »
Sounds awesome J... you are right, pointbreaks are a score!

Stoked you got some and held your ground for some morsels  :)

LBsup

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Re: Point break love
« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2019, 04:47:53 AM »
Wow, goofy foot heaven.
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burchas

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Re: Point break love
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2019, 04:54:21 AM »
Love that spot, definitely a score!

Did you mean Olympus Board Shop? Jeremy put me on that spot, stoked dude 8)
in progress...

supnsurf

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Re: Point break love
« Reply #5 on: April 09, 2019, 07:37:59 AM »
Sweet, glad you scored
Rawson 8'8" Impala


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surfercook

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Re: Point break love
« Reply #6 on: April 10, 2019, 08:59:48 AM »
From France to CA? Nice! Nothin' like some good point break stoke. Keep your head down and paddle like ya mean it.
One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
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Tom

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Re: Point break love
« Reply #7 on: April 10, 2019, 04:17:13 PM »
Surfinj, Glad you scored. A lot of us would pass on the spot you surfed because of it's reputation. As they say, ignorance is bliss.

 


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