Author Topic: Don’t do this  (Read 3070 times)

Caribsurf

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Don’t do this
« on: April 03, 2019, 05:01:45 AM »
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surfercook

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Re: Don’t do this
« Reply #1 on: April 03, 2019, 05:28:08 AM »
I couldn't even look at the photo of that guy's face. Doesn't take much for things to go south.
One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
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burchas

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Re: Don’t do this
« Reply #2 on: April 03, 2019, 05:56:22 AM »
Thanks for the reminder! I don't even know what misjudged mean, seems more like a case of underestimated the force.
I always find it a good idea to take few on the head at the start of a session, keeps me humble.
in progress...

SUP Leave

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Re: Don’t do this
« Reply #3 on: April 03, 2019, 10:18:49 AM »
Sounds he fell in front of the board (board between him and the wave) and the edge hit him between the eyes?

"Recalling the accident in February, he said: 'As the wave came to the end it sectioned. I bottom turned but misjudged it and took a tumble.

'The wave was not big, about 3ft. However I landed in the wrong place at the wrong time and the board hit me square in the face, right between the eyes."


Easy to see how that can happen, there is nothing more freaky than getting tossed in front of the board. I'm sure everyone here knows to protect the head when you fall in front. This guy probably does too, but it sounds like a bang-bang play. He's really lucky.

Interestingly, I saw this story posted on the surfermag forum this morning the post title was "I love a good SUP story". I thought those times were over.
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seadart

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Re: Don’t do this
« Reply #4 on: April 03, 2019, 11:10:32 AM »

[I'm sure everyone here knows to protect the head when you fall in front. This guy probably does too, but it sounds like a bang-bang play. He's really lucky.


I  think it might be important to really impress on people who start SUP paddling how important it is to protect your head, face and neck in a fall.  I surf a lot at Lajolla Shores because it is close to work and every year you see people come out with huge boards, with no surf experience, who have no clue about how dangerous they can be if caught by a powerful wave.  You should always have a hand or arm protecting your face and neck or head when falling forward or with the board between you and the wave.  If it is going to be really bad let go of the paddle and use both arms and tuck, push the board away if you can as you fall.   I  got into surfing originally from kayak surfing and wave ski surfing where you are strapped in or on the large object being thrown around in the surf, and learned to very vigorously tuck and protect.   I know of three young high level surfers who have broken their necks surfing in Encinitas/Carlsbad area -something i always keep in mind going over the falls or pearling face first at high speed.

The second thing to remember is that a lot of really stupid nasty accidents happen surfing on small waves - most of the worst injuries I have had have been on waves you wouldn't think twice about getting hurt on. 

PonoBill

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Re: Don’t do this
« Reply #5 on: April 03, 2019, 11:40:12 PM »
True that Seadart. Big waves might beat you up, but disrespecting little waves can get you killed. I catch myself doing stuff in baby waves that I'd NEVER do in big surf. Like letting the board get sideways on the outside of me. Stupid, and it's inevitable that it will take you out.
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eastbound

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Re: Don’t do this
« Reply #6 on: April 04, 2019, 03:06:18 AM »
speaks for helmets--but i cant get there--yet
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Bean

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Re: Don’t do this
« Reply #7 on: April 04, 2019, 06:41:58 AM »
I think I would ride a softop first...

mrbig

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Re: Don’t do this
« Reply #8 on: April 05, 2019, 07:48:05 AM »
Tru Dat. Yesterday I was riding my new V2 Blurr in absolute crap with strong offshores.

Wind blows me off. Dive dive commander arms over my head. Usually close my eyes, but I peeked.

V2 Blurr very light and Quobba fins looked scary as the whirling dervish flew over me and landed on the other side of me.

A heavier bigger board might have had a more serious ending.

I remember getting crushed by my Hanson 50-50 in 66. Never forget! Hands over head and dive baby dive!
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WhatsSUP

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Re: Don’t do this
« Reply #9 on: April 05, 2019, 08:34:38 AM »
Spot on Big!!!!

First wave of last nights sunset session with you sent my Creek airborne and when I surfaced "WAAA-BAMMMM!"...caught the friggin board right across the middle of the back.  Another several inches and it would caught the back of my neck/head area.  "F-!!!!!" I thought.....my impact vest took the brunt and was I glad I had it on!rest of the session was full on hands and arms over head on every wipe!  Stupid fun session nonetheless and funny to watch you walk back from down the beach in the twilight as I caught my last wave of the day....I thought I might have to launch a night mission to come get ya!   ;D ;D ;D ;D
« Last Edit: April 05, 2019, 08:56:27 AM by WhatsSUP »
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SUPJorge

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Re: Don’t do this
« Reply #10 on: April 05, 2019, 09:34:57 AM »
Pono wrote:

"I catch myself doing stuff in baby waves that I'd NEVER do in big surf. Like letting the board get sideways on the outside of me. Stupid, and it's inevitable that it will take you out."

Been there, done that, got the marks to prove it.
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nalu-sup

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Re: Don’t do this
« Reply #11 on: April 05, 2019, 09:54:43 AM »
I have collected a few experiences to show what can happen.
50 years ago when I was first learning to surf, I surfaced without my arms protecting, and the tail of my board coming back on the leash split my upper lip all the way through. Lesson learned.
A few years ago I went over the falls down in Mexico, and while tumbling underwater with my arms crossed in front of my face, the fins came at my face and sliced my wrist open, requiring numerous stitches.
Two years ago I crashed coming off the lip in Costa Rica, and since I was changing sides with the paddles at that moment, I was spinning underwater holding the paddle in just one hand when the blade hit the bottom, and the handle hit me in the face opening me up from nose to outer cheek, and exploding my eye socket.
Last year while doing the Maliko downwind run on Maui, I flew off the front of the board, which I knew could be a problem with the board upwind of me. I tucked into a tight ball underwater with my hands over face and the top of my head. My 16' board came flying through the air and landed with the rail driving deep enough into the water to nail the back of my head, almost knocking me out, and leaving a headache for the rest of the day.
Tumbling underwater with my windsurf rig a few years ago in mast high surf, the rig wrenched around and split my ear lobe in half.
It is tough to anticipate all of the ways that our gear is out to get us.

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TallDude

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Re: Don’t do this
« Reply #12 on: April 05, 2019, 10:54:00 AM »
Pono wrote:

"I catch myself doing stuff in baby waves that I'd NEVER do in big surf. Like letting the board get sideways on the outside of me. Stupid, and it's inevitable that it will take you out."

Been there, done that, got the marks to prove it.
+1 did this just floating after a wipeout. My board sucked outside of me as a nothing little crumbling wave rolled towards me. I'm thinking harmless energy. I was in shallow water so I started to stand up and grab my board as it hit the white water. I extended my arm to grab the rail, but I misjudged it and missed the rail. Caught the board with my ribs :'(
I could paddle for a week or so after that. Another time after surfing all morning I road my last wave in. Not realizing the tide had drained and the reef was just a foot or so below. Just as I looked down and noticed, my fin hit the reef. I sort of cross stepped off the nose and my foot hit the side of a big rock. My knee and the board when opposite directions. Pulled my ACL. Out for about 6 weeks. Many more etc. etc.
I wish I could say "it was double OH and Mack'n"..... but nope. Always just something stupid and misjudged.
It's not overhead to me!
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Bean

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Re: Don’t do this
« Reply #13 on: April 05, 2019, 01:08:52 PM »
Broke my left foot in 2015 and then my right foot in 2017 stepping off on the very same familiar sand bar, in micro-surf...

Live and learn, me, nah.

 


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